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In the Fires of Hell.....
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You now have 3 people on this board telling you what is wrong, and some suggestions on how to remedy it.
You might want to loosen up the nut on the bottom of the motor mount and that will allow you to twist it up and into the cavity in the support. I didn't even put the nuts on mine at all until they were situated correctly.
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PCA Instructor: '88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St Paul MN
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Quote:
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With the lower stud in place, does the mm upper shoulder fit into the cavity of the crossbrace with nothing tightened down? If not, get the upper shoulder into the crossmember cavity 1st, then drop the engine and line up your bolt holes.
This might require you to lift the motor mount out of it's resting place in the crossmember and "finesse" it into the upper cavity of the crossmember with a crowbar and liquid soap. Last edited by fiily; 08-30-2016 at 06:47 AM.. |
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Location: Tampa,fl
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The little "nub" on top of the motor mount has long slopes on both sides of aftermarket mounts that I've used. I've had to grind one side of the nub to 90 degrees to allow more twisting of the mount in order to fit it into the cross member better and get the bolt holes lined up.
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'90 944S2 cab - sold after 20 years, will not be forgotten. '04 Mercedes SL500 - Nice but my S2 was more fun to drive. |
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Banned
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then i remounted in the cross member, pushing the rubber tab you guys highlight on the outside well into the socket on the cross member. this is a huge PITA because the mount is actually slightly compressed to get that tab into the cross member. but i got it in there fully. then, i tightened the cross memeber, and lowered the engine, and this is what it looks like now: ![]() the location is somewhat improved, but the angle is all wrong and there is no way to thread the bolts in. the socket does line up, and is in the pocket on the engine. everything is supposed to be lined up, but it still doesn't. the mount will not go farther into the side of the cross member. period, it can't be done without my grinding significant amounts off the mount or the cross member. im thinking of sawing the rubber tab off the side of the mount, to allow it more freedom to move. as it is, it cannot move at all in the cross member, it can't move sideways to fit properly. |
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In the Fires of Hell.....
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It shouldn't be that tight into the crossmember. Sounds like an aftermarket part that doesn't quite fit correctly.
Is the PS mount as tight as this one is?
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PCA Instructor: '88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost |
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Banned
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im figuring out that the mount has other problems too. it seems the notch on the bottom of it, is in the wrong place, and is preventing the mount from being rotated to match the holes properly. either that, or again, the rubber skirt at the top, is too tight and prevent the mount from rotating into position. if i took a picture from the other side, the hole is much closer to matched, again, because the mount is rotated incorrectly. im going to remove the mount, and do some dremal work i think. |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: St Paul MN
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figured it out.
the mount was made incorrectly. actually on two different parts too, and if it was right on one of them, it might have worked, but since it was wrong on both counts, it will not fit my car. when i modified it, it fit perfectly. the first is more obvious than the second ... old mount: ![]() notice how the pin on the bottom of the mount, is more or less lined up with the threaded holes? now look at the new mount: ![]() yeah, its probably 10 degree or more rotated compared to the old mount. this insures that no matter what, the threaded holes will never line up. no matter how much you move that thing around, without rotating the engine or the cross member around a vertical axis, or twist deflecting the motor mount, you can never get the holes to line up. the second, more subtle way it was made incorrectly, is that the "wing" that is near the top that fits into the cross member is around .100" to large. hard to get a picture of this. but after trimming it fit fine. so after i dremalled off the bottom pin, and cut a bunch of rubber off the top, it fit perfectly, line up first time and bolted right in. until it came to the bottom stud, which, after all this pounding, crowbaring, and generally using entirely too much force trying to make a part which would not fit, fit ... the stud on the bottom busted off. so, buying a new mount, and will probably end up simply cutting the tab off and cutting the rubber off. not going through this mess again. id recommend simply performing these modifications to every mount you have a tough time fitting. after those modifications, the mount went in in less than 10 minutes. Last edited by cockerpunk; 08-30-2016 at 07:11 PM.. |
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In the Fires of Hell.....
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Glad you figured it out.
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PCA Instructor: '88 951S - with LBE, Guru chips, 3Bar FPR, 1.3mm shimmed WG, 3120 lbs, 256 RWHP, 15 psig boost |
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Nice that you figured that out.
Stinks you have to buy a new mount, and probably not returnable for a refund for the broken stud after the mods. I think this is where I spent $$$ on porsche mounts, never want to do this job again on the 951 again, too much of a headache. On a 944 n/a, no biggie with nothing in the way. |
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