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Idle speed set screw backs out!
I have been looking for an idle speed problem for months now. I would set it and after a few miles it would creep back up again.
I finally marked the screw position and depth and drove it around a bit, sure enough it is un-screwing itself while I drive! So can I just put "Lok-Tite" on it? Or should I replace the screw? |
I've lost two of them on different cars, when I replaced them w/ new ones(I had to, couldn't find 'em!) they didn't back out anymore. I'd just recommend you to try something like a really light grade of loctite that would just give it a little bit of resistance. I have some, just don't recall w/ # or color they call it.
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Hi,
I had exactly the same problem. I ended up putting a small 1 inch piece of wire through the slot in the screw and then bending each end of the wire down toward the throttle body. Then I put a small hose clamp around the cylindrical body that holds the screw. The hose clamp clamps the wire ends to the cylindrical body. I know this sounds half assed but it does not look bad and allows me to adjust the idle any time I want. I can post a picture if you need one. |
I like that idea! You would not happen to have a pic would you? Thats kind of hard to visualize.
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You can use a spot of loctite blue on it - just make sure it is high enough to engage the threads, but but not run into the throttle body.
AFJuvat |
Teflon plumbers tape.
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duh! put a larger O-ring on it.
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I used blue Loctite on mine. It's been holding for several years.
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If you are talking about the screw that adjusts the position of the cam (for the throttle cable), when mine got lost, I got a 5mm screw from Lowe's hardware store, and a small coiled spring. I cut the screw length to fit with enough room for the spring. Put the spring on the screw and put the screw on the throttle body. This keeps enough tension on the screw so it doesn't back out. I think the screw was 20 mm long, and I had to remove about 4 mm so that it would fit.
Good luck. |
No it's the brass screw in the top of the throttle housing.
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Here is a schematic, I could not take a real picture because my camera batteries were dead.
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SoCal took my idea. Plumber's tape would be best. Or if you are in a bind use a pen cap. Wedge the bastard in there. Just make sure it isn't blocking off all the airflow. Now that would be down right silly.
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I used a combination fix. First I did as Todwic suggested and replaced the rotten O-ring, and then just for the added security I used the teflon tape. It's holding now.
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First replace the oring, then try the teflon tape. If that fails go tho the junkyard and pull a couple from some old Volkswagon's. Thats what I had to do when mine blew out. However I think mine blew out because the engine was having vacum, fuel injection, and electrical problems. As I fix the problems I can turn the idle screw much further in, and it idles smoothly at 950 rpms.
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