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Clutch system bleeding question
So with my new clutch MC, slave, and hose installed, I went about bleeding the system using this method:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wdf--suwqw0 bleeding up from the slave using the oil can pump. The brake fluid filled the slave and MC (I assume) because the reservoir filled up as well. I started with the reservoir partially full. Now, when I push on the clutch pedal, the pedal doesn't return, it stays down. I guess I don't understand what causes the pedal to come back up. Does this mean there is still air in the system? Or does the MC rod need its length adjusted? I set the length so it was the same as the old one I removed. Thanks. |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,949
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Yes, keep bleeding.
__________________
Mike A 9TECHNIK | TRANSAXLE ÄRA 1986 944 (Street); 1986 944 (Track); 1986 951; 1989 951 (3.0L 8V); 2000 996 Cab. |
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Even with this method, you need to have the reservoir filled fully so it is above the clutch line or air gets into the clutch.
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O.K. I'll keep at it.
Yes, the fluid level in the reservoir was above the hose level. Thanks though for the tip. |
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 1,370
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I second the idea that you have to keep going. It took me a long time by myself. I pushed the pedal down, went under, opened valve and closed it before all pressure was out. Repeat. Angle of car helps?... also, knowing when bubbles are out ... there can be very tiny hard-to-see bubbles. Bottom line : solid pedal absolutely required no matter bubbles or no.
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Sounds like a plan. I'm going to follow Clark's Garage method:
---------------------- Bleeding Method 2 Install the slave cylinder into the clutch housing. Raise the rear of the vehicle as high as possible above the front of the vehicle. Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal and hold it to the floor. Open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. Have a bucket and rags ready to catch any brake fluid that spills. When fluid / air stops coming out, close the bleed nipple. Have the assistant release the clutch pedal. The first few times the slave cylinder is vented, the clutch pedal with have to be pulled off the floor. Repeat steps c, d, and e until clutch pedal operation feels normal. |
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my method after several attempts resulting in hours to get clutch back.
jack car from passenger side and support on stands front and rear. Push clutch pedal to floor and employ a device (stick) to keep the pedal on the floor. Attach power bleeder to master reservoir and apply 10lbs of pressure (no fluid just air). make sure reservoir is filled completely. crawl under car with a box and open wrench and open bleeder. close it quickly. remember there is very little fluid in the clutch line portion of the master reservoir. you cant extract a significant amount of fluid from the clutch slave. wait 5 minutes (I crawl back out from under the car and inspect reservoir). This allows the fluid to migrate back to the front left portion of the reservoir which transfers rather slowly. Continue this process until you have solid fluid exiting the bleeder. tighten the bleeder wipe up area. Inside the car the stick or whatever you used to hold pedal down will be on the floor as the pedal has completely collapsed at this point. Now slowly and I mean very very slowly pull the pedal with your hand to the up position. This should take 30-45 seconds or longer if you can. The idea is do this really slow. Your pedal should feel great and return on its own. If it doesn't there is still air in the line and you will need to repeat this process. This method works great for me and I hope it works great for you. |
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Update: ended up getting the Motive pressure bleeder and bingo, bubbles came out, the clutch pedal nice and firm and springs back up after being pressed. Bled the brakes as well after installing new rubber hoses. That was even easier. So, I guess it's +1 on using a pressure bleeder! Thanks all.
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Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: O.C. CA
Posts: 4,587
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yeah - i don't know why so many people resist. it's the only way to do this. all other methods are hit and miss at best, and always take a long time. the motive is a no brainer, and it's ridiculously cheap, when you consider how much time it saves, given that you have to flush the entire system every 2-3 years. it pays for itself in time savings the first time you use it in time saved, if you count your time as a cost, as i do, because any minute i waste wrenching on a car is a minute i am not making money.
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