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911buff
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Rear Hatch Construction
This may be a rehash but I have been scouring this thread, other threads and the internet in general and cannot locate the info I am looking for;
We have an '86 944 that the trim around the top (front) of the hatch is separated from the glass... common issue. My question; is there a gasket/seal between the trim and the glass? I do not want to just fill with RTV if there is a proper fix. I do not see a gasket/seal listed in the PET, so I am leaning towards "there is none". So then my next question would be; what seals the joint between the glass and trim? I cannot find any definitive pictures or tutorials. I understand the prop-rods push the glass away from the trim over time. So there will be a gap that will develop given enough time. Is there a cross section view out there that will help me wrap my head around this so I can fix it properly? Thanks for any help.
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'71 914 1.7 - sold, '70 914-6 - sold (I am such an idiot!), '73 914 2.0 - sold, '74 914 2.0 - sold, '74 914 2.0 - sold, '67 911 - sold (Again, I am an idiot), '91 C2 - sold |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Nashville, TN
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There is no seal, the glass is adhesively bonded with some super-duper-German-glue to the metal "trim" frame.
Duplicating the glue and the method of bonding the two together has been the challenge... I think the most "proper and final" fix would be making a new, heavier-duty metal frame, but that's out of reach for most folks. |
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Quote:
Notice, there is no other rear hatch with that type of flexible aluminum frame. I guess that they learned a lesson from the 944 cars...
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Good luck, George Beuselinck |
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911buff
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That was what I thought. Thank you!
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'71 914 1.7 - sold, '70 914-6 - sold (I am such an idiot!), '73 914 2.0 - sold, '74 914 2.0 - sold, '74 914 2.0 - sold, '67 911 - sold (Again, I am an idiot), '91 C2 - sold |
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944 S2
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Middle of Ohio
Posts: 599
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The window adhesive is called urethane. Applied after a suitable primer is applied. The urethane will breakdown when exposed to UV, which is why it's usally directly behind the blacked out ink on the glass. That is commonly called black ceramic in the automotive industry which is silk screen on and baked on the glass.
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There is a tech article from this website which gives a step by step approach. I need to do this myself at some point. Sounds like the main thing to do is go very slow and very carefully....
Pelican Technical Article: 944 Rear Hatch Glass Repair
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1971 911T 1985 944 manual road car 1983 944 race spec car 2009 997.2 Carrera PDK) gone but not forgotten) 1988 Carrera Targa Euro Spec (gone by not forgotten) |
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Quote:
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1985 944 2.7 motor,1989 VW Corrado 16v,57 project plastic speedster t4 power,1992 mk3 Golf,2005 a4 b7 qt avant 3.0 tdi,1987 mk2 Golf GTI,1973 914,2.2t to go in. Past cars, 17 aircooled VW's and lots of BMW's KP 13/3/1959-21/11/2014 RIP my best friend. |
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Get yourself a sardine can, open it, now find a way to reattach the lid. When you have mastered this task you are ready for a 944 rear hatch glass reseal.
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Mike A 9TECHNIK | TRANSAXLE ÄRA 1986 944 (Street); 1986 944 (Track); 1986 951; 1989 951 (3.0L 8V); 2000 996 Cab. |
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Has anyone thought about welding a small triangular reinforcement plate to the corner where the hatch bends and stretches from the shocks to help the adhesive out?
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Just throwing stuff a the wall. Welding with the glass still in place is not going to work.
However, if you make sure your hatch pins are adjusted so the hatch fits against the body tightly, maybe this will help reduce vibration and strain on the hatch? Or will it make it worse? |
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