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AFJUVAT, I got the pictures you were asking for,...

I cleaned off the valves faces and pistons crowns to a certain extent to make it easier for you. The valves look to be fine to me but there is still some oil/ carbon around the edges of the valves so I cant really eye ball it whether they are sealing properly. I didnt get a chance to blast the valves with compressed air to see if there are any bubbles. I will do that tomorrow.

Cyl.#1

Cyl.#2

Cyl.#3

Cyl.#4

Cyl.#1

Cyl.#2

Cyl.#3

Cyl.#4


Should I take it to the same guy or should I find another guy to do it? I mean if it was his fault, I think he should put new ones in for free but if he F'ed up the first time, is he going to F up the second? I am tired, do not want to work on the head anymore. Want to get this done!!! What do you think? Anyone from PCA know any good machinist in Jersey? Z-Man? I don't know how good these images are seeing that the light is shadowing certain areas. I did my best. Just let me know about the machinist.

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Last edited by overkill; 01-30-2003 at 02:23 PM..
Old 01-30-2003, 02:20 PM
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Measure those valve diameters...it'd be cool to know how big they are.
Old 01-30-2003, 04:45 PM
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Much better thanks.

If it were me - new guides and seals all the way around - as well as having the valves lapped and check the valves again for straightness. then have him retime the cams at TDC (have him mark it so you have a point of reference)

Couple of the intake valves look a little too "open" on 2 & 3.

The valves look ok in these pictures, as do the pistons. Check Cyl #4 though, looks like you have a piece of crud or something between the piston and wall.

I would not take it back to the same shop - in your first pics, your valves and pistons looked like they had 50000 miles rather than a few hundred on them since it was last rebuilt.

AFJuvat
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Last edited by AFJuvat; 01-31-2003 at 05:11 AM..
Old 01-31-2003, 02:35 AM
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I dont think I am going to take it to the same shop. I am going to replace all the guides and all the seals again in 2 weeks. I am going to check for bubbles now. What is the proper way to check valves for straightness?
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Old 01-31-2003, 06:23 AM
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I used WD40 as a solution. There were only 2 valves that have bubbles. The intake valve and exhaust valve for cylinder 1 farthest to the end of the head by the cam gear. They only had tiny bubbles. I am not ruling out the fact that they are not slightly bent. I dont know. I just think the guy did a piss poor job doing my guides. I can't wait to get m head to the new guy who ever that may be. If heeeee screws up I swear I'll cut his friggin head off!!! In a nice way I curiousity needs satisfying, I need to know that my guides are bad and that the valves are straight.
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Old 01-31-2003, 06:59 AM
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If it is bubbling, the valve is not sealing correctly. Ask some of the PCA guys if they know a good machine shop in the area.

guides, & seals, haven't ruled out valves or seats yet, but someone is going to have to go in there with a dial gauge.

Good way to check a valve for straightness (without tools)

remove valve - lay it sideways on a flat surface and let it roll - and distortion will be readily obvious.

AFJuvat
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Old 01-31-2003, 07:22 PM
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I talked to Zoltan being a big NNJR member and he gave me a list of places to go.

About, checking straightness,... I was told a good way way to stick the valves in a drill and spin them. If they are straight they wont sway at all. I just thought there would be some techinal way or professional way if you know what I mean. Although spinning them makes perfect sence, it seems "rice" to me.

I know I asked this before but what does having you valves lapped mean,... again? I want to know so when I go to this new guy I want him to know I mean business.

The bubbles, ehhh,... I guess it could be somthing like the seats being worn or damaged. It's only those 2 though, thats what I dont understand. I wonder if those were the 2 that were popping? 2 weeks.
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Old 01-31-2003, 08:29 PM
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Hey, I talked to a friend here at work and he is a genious when it come down to working and modifying cars. He has this little crappy 4Cyl. car that he turbo charged and is now putting out like 4 - 500hp. He is a sick man He sais they test the valve seats by applying vacuum. I think he said if they can get -28 psi or something like that they will seal properly during compression. Is there some way of testing the guides like that? I mean there has to be a way. The just dont want to install the head in HOPES that they will work. There has to be a way of being sure.
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Old 01-31-2003, 08:58 PM
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Only way to be sure at this point is at a machine shop.

AFJuvat
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Old 02-01-2003, 01:41 PM
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Why does cylinder 3's top left valve have a bigger hole in it than the rest of them?

Just curious...
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Old 02-02-2003, 09:16 AM
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What do you mean by hole?
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Old 02-02-2003, 06:07 PM
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Here is my question circled...
Just a curiosity thing really, it looks like a small hole here, and just a 'dimple' in the other valves. Was just wondering if it was a different replacement, the light, or just my bad eyes

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Old 02-02-2003, 08:34 PM
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Overkill, the vacuum test will show if your valve is sealing that time, the problem is if your guides are worn or your valve is slightly bent it may not seal every time it shuts. A quality machinist will check/replace the guides as needed, then regrind the seats to assure centering with the guide. The valves will then be turned by the regrind machine and any bend will be noticable by the contact made with the grinding wheel. When the job is complete the head should be reassembled and valve height and seat pressure should be checked, A vacuum test will then show that all is well and the valve should seat correctly every time.
Most machine shops will also check for warpage and cracks when the head is cleaned and disassembled.
Good luck........RAY
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Old 02-02-2003, 09:28 PM
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I dont know? I didnt replace any valves.

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Old 02-03-2003, 06:08 AM
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