Rear defroster not working after changing hatch struts

[matt1415]

I just replaced the hatch struts on my 924s and had to do a little bit of modifying to get the interior lights to come on with the hatch open. The new struts did not come with sensors so I had to remove them from the old set and install on the new ones.

The next issue came with the ground. Both the interior lights and the rear defroster appear to use the actual strut as a ground. Well the new struts had plastic ends on them both so nothing could be grounded through the strut. I managed to overcome this problem by soldering a wiring from the base of the strut to that little knob thing that the strut is suppose to ground with.

Now with the light problem fixed the rear defogger does not appear to work. I know this because when I use to turn it on the interior light would actually dim from the power drain and it no longer does. One thing that is weird though is my heated mirrors still work and are activated by the same switch. I forgot to mention after the strut replacement my rear defroster fuse #4 was blown so I replaced it. I hope this is just a problem with the relay but I can't see that being the cause if the mirrors still work.

Any ideas?

[matt1415]

Found a new symptom today that might explain something the question is what. I had the hatch open and was going to check if I could get 12 volts at the grid and to my surprise when I turned the rear defroster on the lights actually dimmed for a moment indicating the defroster worked but than shortly after it blew the 25A fuse. I am convinced now the relay is fine and it is instead a problem with the ground I made. Am I suppose to test the ground for the rear defroster with the hatch open or shut? I am really confused now if the position of the hatch changes anything or if It's just not getting ground. When the hatch is shut the fuse does not blow but the defroster does not come on.

[onZedge]

Originally Posted by matt1415

Both the interior lights and the rear defroster appear to use the actual strut as a ground. Well the new struts had plastic ends on them both so nothing could be grounded through the strut. I managed to overcome this problem by soldering a wiring from the base of the strut to that little knob thing that the strut is suppose to ground with.

Can you post photo(s) of how exactly you accomplished the above? I just installed aftermarket Strong Arm #4761 hatch struts (similar dimensions, with more than sufficient 50 LB thrust, vs factory 72 LB way overkill thrust) and my wiring solution worked perfectly, for both the hatch light and defogger.

[matt1415]

Originally Posted by onZedge

Can you post photo(s) of how exactly you accomplished the above? I just installed aftermarket Strong Arm #4761 hatch struts (similar dimensions, with more than sufficient 50 LB thrust, vs factory 72 LB way overkill thrust) and my wiring solution worked perfectly, for both the hatch light and defogger.

Managed to solve the problem with direct wiring to the defroster, it's not pretty but it works. I found the new struts were powder coated throughout and were not able to deliver any power to the defroster grid. I'll probably go back to the originals once I can find some new ones but for now having a hatch that doesn't fall on my head is great. I'll get some pics up tomorrow of what I've done.