'79 rear shock replacement with pics

[Rupesy]

I had two blown rear shocks and recently replaced them. Posting a few pics of this accomplishment. I had very few issues with removing the rear bolts which was nice. The driver side was a little tight, but eventually came out. It had some evidence of antiseize on that one so that side may have been done before. I was able to remove the driver side without removing the rear brakes, however, I had to remove the brake and rotor for the passenger side. Just happpened that the nut that came loose was different for each side. The most difficult parts of this job was removing the collars from the shock as you will see. I had to basically destroy the shock to remove it as no amount of pounding of the collar would do the trick. The first one took longer as I had to figure out what to do. The second one a matter of minutes. The other was getting the orientation orientation of the top mount with respect to the car. The three nuts are not symmetrical and have to be int he correct orientation. Not a big deal, but makes it hard when you are by yourself trying to get it lined up. Only recommendation is don't get in a hurry and forget to put on the coil compressors before you you remove the top nut (which i did on the second one)

Here is a picture before starting


How I removed the bolt. Shown on side I had to remove the caliper and rotor but used same techinque on driver side. basically beating on the washer



A picture of the bolt. Mine were not bent as far as I could tell.


Spring compressed and partially disassembled :


I used a hammer and chisel to cut the shock away from the collar. I used my air chisel on the second one which was much faster. Keep in mind these were blown so there was no gas pressure.


Even an air chisel wasn't working to get the shock casing out, so i decided to cut a line down the middle of the casing and that did the trick:


coming out easily with the air chisel


Finally out

[Rupesy]

I had to grind the ID with a dremmel to get the collar to fit properly on the new shock. this was only because of the years of rust and not a parts issue.


I used antiseize to coat the ID. Not sure if this will help, but some peace of mind.


Random pic of the sisters during the process:


Another action pic


Doritos takes better with Mcphereson strut dressing!


All back together


Lubing up the bolt


used a jack to help with getting things lined up, some of the washers were a pain


All finished up

[AirtekHVAC]

I'm tired just reading the thread....and now my back hurts.

Good job!

[Rupesy]

I completed the driver shock and cv joint on one day and the passenger side the next. I felt like I just got done playing tackle football where I got QB sacked several times. I did win in the end!

[Mrmerlin]

shocks are sometimes difficult I have found that cleaning the shocks in a parts washer then using a Mapp gas torch and PB blaster work pretty well to slide the adjuster collars off the old shock tubes.

Your picture of antiseize on the inside of the collar is not a good idea, the idea is that the inner collar will jamb onto the shock body and thus permit adjustment of the spring perch. With the antiseize it will reduce the friction available to hold the collar in a locked position

With a wire brush clean the threads of the adjuster,
the antiseize should go on the threaded part of the collar so the adjuster can be turned.

adding it to the inside of the collar will possible make for the whole adjuster turning thus rendering the adjustment capability non existant.

NOTE this is especially crucial on the front shocks as the threaded rings are the only thing, holding against the shock
you might try using some JB weld to fasten the inner collars to the shock body, so they wont spin.

Lastly sliding the lower link pins out to the rear then means that you dont have to remove the caliper and rotor. lots of extra work here.

also remove the lower sway bar bolt from the control arm to make pin alignment easier as well as shock removal.

My choice wear leather gloves to reduce skin contamination and cuts

[honerboys]

if you have access to a press you can use it to remove the collars

[JayPoorJay]

Just a quick question...

I just received to boge shocks that were advertised on eBay as "new". One shock, after being depressed, will spring back. The other, not.at.all...

Should these shocks when new fully extend themselves when not carrying a load?

[stepson]

Originally Posted by honerboys

if you have access to a press you can use it to remove the collars

Or you can put the shock assembly in a vise such that the body of the shock is loose in the vise but the spring perch or adjustment rests on the jaws of the vise. Hit the top of the shaft with a substantial hammer. The collar will come off.

And yes, the shocks should be fully extended without load.