Adding Remote Keyless Alarm to OB (1983)

[Danglerb]

Alan on Rennlist posted good info with diagrams, but they are specifically for 1988 and 1990+, and its not entirely clear to me what the differences are for earlier cars.

1984+ has an electric hatch release, which complicates the installations.

My 83 has the factory alarm, and my intention is to add a remote keyless entry and alarm, an Audiovox CodeAlarm CA110. I'd like the system to be seamless, Key or Fob working on both alarms, but shop installed them as parallel and fully independent. If the car is locked via key, and unlocked via fob, factory alarm goes off when door is opened.

Alan's diagram connects the Keyless Lock and UnLock signals to Lock/Arm and UnLock/Disarm respectively using diodes to isolate the locking vs alarming. Does that sound like it should work in an early car as well?

[Danglerb]

OB can refer to just 78/79, but its common to use it as Old Boy, Original Body, Old Bugger, anything pre 32v.

Completely removing the Clifford Model 8 that was installed in 1984 put a serious dent in my VISA. It was actually still working fine, but just to be on the safe side it was supposed to have been removed by the alarm shop. Buried parts of it activated after reconnecting the battery during other repairs and Greg traced down and removed the rest of it. I don't want to repeat that with the factory alarm if I don't have to. Not using the key in the door should work.

[T_MaX]

It's more difficult to try and describe how to do this than it is to just doing it.

Go to http://www.the12volt.com/ and spend a day or so reading, than if you still have any questions about KE, post it.

[Danglerb]

Nice site, but a dry well (info below). My 83 has factory alarm and I think the doors talk directly to each other? 84 is the first year of central locking button and rear hatch release. Whats not clear to me from looking at the wiring diagrams and Alan's diagram for the 88 Crimestopper, is what has changed and if I can still just connect the aftermarket alarm lock/unlock to both the (lock, alarm)/(unlock, disarm) using diodes for isolation.

Web site info.
1979-83 Porsche 928 Security Information
Constant 12V+ Red Ignition Switch Harness
Starter Red/Black Ignition Switch Harness
Ignition Black Ignition Switch Harness
Trunk Pin n/a Works with Dome Light
Parking Lights Gray/Black L And Gray/Red R at Light Switch
Door Trigger Brown/White (-) Driver's Side Kick
Door Lock n/a
Door Unlock n/a
Horn Wire Brown/White (-) Steering Column

It could use an update.

[Alan in AZ]

Originally posted by jimmyt123
for those with original factory units, I would always completely remove every part, every wire, every trace of the original unit. It will save many headaches down the line. This is especially true on cars of that vintage.

Actually I'd recommend the opposite - as long as the factory unit in a 928 is working - don't mess with it - add the KE system to it to take over lock/arm and unlock/disarm and all will be good. Many aftermarket systems are installed very badly - I'd always remove an aftermarket system which was clearly poorly installed or exhibits any flakyness in operation.

The 928 Alarm is poorly documented and understood but is actually a good alarm - the 91+ models are particularly excellent and can have additional features retrofitted quite easily. They are dealer diagnosible (by hammer) and are well installed. Once some monkey starts butchering them - sadly - all bets are off!

Danglerb - I will help you with your install if you like - what do you want to do alerts/confirm etc and do you have a link to the manual for the system you have?

Alan

[Danglerb]

Alan, I am so glad to see you here.

CodeAlarm CA110, www.audiovox.com is all java script so link might be funny, clicking on manual opens a pop up with users and install manuals.
http://webappshttp.voxdmz.audiovox.com:1025/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay.jsp?catalogId=10001&storeId=10001&productId=10196&langId=-1&desc=Security%20Systems

I wanted a simple keyless that worked with the factory alarm, but I don't have a problem with adding basic movement etc alarm functions as long as everything works.

One of the 0.5 amp door lock fuses blew, and the doorlocks were cycling. They disconnected the door locks "plug", and I told them I would have Greg sort out the unknown at the time problem with them.

Greg was out of 0.5 amp fuses, so it has a 5 amp in it now, and doorlocks are plugged back in without any cycling problems. The alarm fob is working backwards, ARM unlocks the doors and turns on alarm, Disarm turns off alarm and locks doors. When the ignition is turned off the car locks immediately and requires manual unlocking and I "think" opening the door to prevent relocking.

[Alan in AZ]

danglerb - I checked it out.

On thr 2 pin connector - swap the connections on the Blue & Green wires to get the lock connections the right way around. Get the fuses you need for the locks at radio shack or Frys electronics.

Sounds like the integration is close to what you want if the doors are fixed. Assume you have the siren conected up and can get an audible chirp confirm with that?

Do you want the lights to flash as a confirm also? your system can do this with a little wiring?

Assume you don't have an electric hatch opener?

If no extra connections to the alarm are made you should have just the motion sensor alarm feature - it will alarm on the CA alarm only.

You can have it trigger the factory alarm also if you want

Alan

[Danglerb]

Originally posted by Alan in AZ
danglerb - I checked it out.

On thr 2 pin connector - swap the connections on the Blue & Green wires to get the lock connections the right way around. Get the fuses you need for the locks at radio shack or Frys electronics.

Sounds like the integration is close to what you want if the doors are fixed. Assume you have the siren conected up and can get an audible chirp confirm with that?

Do you want the lights to flash as a confirm also? your system can do this with a little wiring?

Assume you don't have an electric hatch opener?

If no extra connections to the alarm are made you should have just the motion sensor alarm feature - it will alarm on the CA alarm only.

You can have it trigger the factory alarm also if you want

Alan

Thanks Alan,

As it sits the CodeAlarm and factory alarm have no connection. If it will work I would like to do the diode thing so the fob will arm/disarm the factory alarm. I'm guessing the key won't be able to disarm the CA? That might be a good thing, as I can arm the factory alarm and leave the CA disabled if its messing up.

Glad to hear its a wire swap, I had some concern it might be a "funky" mismatch. I'll put the proper 0.5 amp fuses in when I fix the wiring.

I have chirp, not worried about lights for now. 83 is no hatch opener. I have one in my 84 parts car, but its not in the plans for now. This car isn't a grocery getter.

The CA I think monitors at least the door pins.

I haven't ruled out tossing the CA either, and putting in something better. The Fob is the size of a Zippo lighter, and only has two buttons, that seem very easy to trigger accidentally. Getting it working and chewing out the installer is all thats really on the table for now though.

Thanks again.

[Alan in AZ]

Danglerb - In looking at the schematics I see no details of the factory alarm for an 83...? are you sure its the factory version installed? if so I'll assume its like an '84 alarm.

After you swap the lock connections over and test for correct lock/unlock operaton disconnect these and add in the diodes. get 4 1A rectifier diodes from ~radio shack/frys. You may want to get a screw type 6 way terminal block to aid connection to these and to avoid them being under stress from the wiring...

Connect the Lock/Arm output from the CA to the -ve side of 2 seperate diodes (the ends with the white ring). Connect the other +ve (no ring) end of one diode to the wires you tested to be the lock connections to central locking and the other +ve (no ring) diode output to the wire(s) that connect to the terminal labelled "E" on the Porsche alarm module - these wires will most likely be Brown with a Red stripe (but may vary on an '83 - the wiring diagrams for this year do not show colors).

Also connect the Unlock/Disarm output from the CA to the -ve side of 2 seperate diodes. Connect the +ve (no ring) end of one diode to the wires you tested to be the unlock connections to central locking & connect the other +ve (no ring) end to the wire(s) that connect to the terminal lebelled "A" on the Porsche alarm module - these wires will most likely be Brown with a Green stripe (but may vary on an '83 as above).

You should be able to find these alarm arm/disarm wires near where the central locking wires are routed (to the doors or in the console).

This should cause the key and/or the CA-KE to both lock/arm & unlock/disarm the factory alarm.

If you just use the keys to lock the CA will not be armed - so it will not alert or be monitoring the movement sensor.

These connections will allow the correct operation of either the long or short keys in the locks and will ensure the CA-KE remote always combines related locking & arming modes.

Note - the CA alarm will remain armed if you lock with the CA-KE and unlock with the key (so motion sensor will likely go off). When armed if the movement sensor is triggered only the CA will alert.

However once you have the KE working you will never use the keys again!


Alan

[Danglerb]

Thanks Alan, I'll post results and picts once I have them.

That was the problem I was running into, documentation of the 83 was pretty thin in the WSM.