WTB: Large Speaker Behind Driver on Quarter Panel

[Stan.Shaw]

I seem to need both the speaker, as it crackles, and the cover as it is cracked. This is for a 10 speaker system. Speaker part number is 928 645 215

[gbarron]

Stan, you could always re-foam that bad boy. I did both my rears last year for a total of $6 in parts and they are working fine now. As for a new cover, try dC automotive or 928 International for a good used unit.

Glenn

[Danglerb]

Crackle doesn't sound like its the surround, more like a bad connection or a scraping voicecoil (spider gone south etc.).

I think you need to pull the rear seats and quarter panels to replace those speakers, or do they just drop in from the front? I'd put in something pretty good, a lot of sound comes from them.

[Stan.Shaw]

Thanks for the thoughts. I have since pulled the speaker, it comes out easily. This is a 10 speaker system, so they are forward of the rear seats on the quarter panels.

The connections all looked good to me, well soldered and tight. I don't know what the foam is that is being referred to, so am not sure if that is good or bad. The speaker looks ok, but even when I held it in my hand and it was connected it made the crackling noise. At least with it out I can use the stereo.

Someone already suggested that rather than rebuilding these speakers I could get current technology replacements for not much money, so I am interested in that option too.

[gbarron]

Stan, the foam I was referring to is the outer most edge of the speaker where it is glued to the frame. The original speakers had a paper "surround" from the cone to the frame and over time the paper rots from dust & moisture. Once this happens the speaker cannot move air to create proper sound. I removed all the old paper and replaced it with newer foam surrounds.

As for upgrading, watch what ohm range you end up with. If I remember correctly the original system worked off a 2 ohm speaker specification and most of what is available today is in the 4 ohm range. You may have to by-pass your factory amp.

[Stan.Shaw]

I will keep the ohm question in mind if I upgrade.

Perhaps I should remove the other good speaker to compare, but the outermost edge of the speaker is complete detached from the frame, so I can move the edge and see through. Is this the source of my problem?

[gbarron]

You nailed it! If the outer edge is detached then the speaker will not work correctly. I suspect your other speaker will be in a similar state as both of mine were.

[Stan.Shaw]

so, if I would be happy with stock stereo performance, does it make sense to rebuild these or replace them with something more modern?

[gbarron]

Upgrading to something more modern brings in the ohm difference problem and the fact that you will need to spend considerable effort to mish mash the newer speaker into the original mounting frame. You will not find anything that will bolt right in, it will require modifications to work.

It can be done and if you want to go that route there are some decent articles posted on how to do it, but it involves cutting & modifying. If you are mechanically inclined and have a good selection of tools (dremel, etc.) than it might be worth your time...but then where do you stop? Upgrade the head, amp(s), the other 8 speakers...you get the point!

I was able to find new foam surrounds at a local electronics repair place for less than $2 each. I also bought a bottle of the glue from them. I used the following instructions when I did the repair:

http://www.customspeakerparts.net/online_refoaming_instructions.htm

There are several other aritcles published on the web too, but I found this one the easiest to follow.

[Stan.Shaw]

I would suggest I am very mechanically inclined, but this seems more like bodywork than motor work. I find jobs such as these tedious and recognize someone more skilled will do a better job. So it seems I just need to decide where to send it to and perhaps review the other one as well.

I would consider having a new stereo installed, but really don't want anyone messing with the electrics as there are many horror stories about such projects.

[rhjames]

Stan--

Stereo installs are no big deal, just remember that the current crop of speakers have magnets that are huge compared to the OEM 928 units. This usually requires spacing the speaker out from the door panels or upholstery, a look you may not be comfortable with. It's either spacing or cutting into the door/body structures.

As far as wiring/ohm #s and such, most good stereo retailers can guide you on these subjects.

If you do the install yourself (I recommend it) just remember to run power and ground wires (head and amp units) directly to and from the battery--with inline fuses. I do not recommend using the factory wiring, including the OEM speaker wire.

(P.S.----check out my threads on the heads I got from you. Wow, what a difference!!!)


--Russ

[Stan.Shaw]

I saw the heads, they look great. I look forward to hearing the results of your motor build.

I am sure I *could* do the stereo work. I just don't want to. I have umpteen car projects now that I am capable and (somewhat) willing to do. I would like to have a working stereo system and if spending a few dollars is what it takes, that would be fine.

Mark A. had suggested Orange County Speaker could rebuild them. If I can't find anyone closer I will go that route.

[Danglerb]

Take power from the battery connection and generally don't let them cut any wires under the dash and it isn't that risky to update the stereo.

I still doubt the crackle is related to the missing surround, usually all the bass just goes away.

I'd try a different speaker, even if just as a test.

Replacing the surround is closer to putting on a bandaid than it is to doing surgery, maybe practice on another cheap speaker first, but its not that hard or that critical.

[Stan.Shaw]

Trying a different speaker wouldn't be easy, as this one has 8 wire connections, so knowing which one if for what purpose would be time consuming in itself. I am presuming all the rear speakers are wired through this speaker.

I do appreciate your comment on question whether it is just a surround issue, and in fact supports my theory that it is better for me to send it to someone who does this all the time to review/rebuild as required.

[gbarron]

Stan, you are correct about the remaining rear speakers running through this one. There is a cross-over bulit into this speaker and the remaining rear speakers receive their signal via this cross-over.

[Danglerb]

Crackle is frequently a dirty pot, like a fader etc. If just one speaker is crackling, my personal guess is the voicecoil is bad, which is easy to happen if it was played with no surround to keep it centered in the gap. Replacing a voicecoil is more work than I think the original speakers warrant if its bad.

The shop you mentioned here in SoCal has been around forever and I don't know of many complaints. They sell the repair kits at one of the swapmeets I go to sometimes.

[Alan in AZ]

Stan - crackling is usually a connection issue. I suggest you just swap the rear speakers as a test - does the crackle move with the speaker or stay on the same channel.

Speakers that need re-foaming will not sound great - but they usually don't crackle either... It may be the amp/wiring?

BTW on these big speakers they have a direct connection while the cossover mounted to the back or the magnet is fed seperately and feeds only to the other 2 rear speakers... swapping to different (non stock) 6.5" speakers means you need to cut this X-over off to retain - or find a different cross-over to use.

Alan

[Stan.Shaw]

Well, I sent them off today to be re-edged, at $28 each I figure it is worth the gamble.

[Danglerb]

Don't you think that price needs a 9 in front to make it more Porschelike?

[Stan.Shaw]

Enough high priced parts in my 928s, I will happily take the bargains.