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My New Car
Just in case you guys were wondering. I got the turbo car.
I checked and topped off all of the fluids. Started it up and let it warm up. Took it for a drive around the neighborhood. Less than two miles and I noticed tons of smoke coming from under the car. I got it home and there was oil all over the engine bay and under the car but none showing on the dipstick. ![]() I guess theres no better way to get to know a new car than to tear it down after less than two miles of driving. ![]() ![]()
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1984 928's w/ 5 speed Smoked Quartz Metalic 1982 928's Turbo w/ 5 Speed Platinum Metalic 1978 Euro Widebody w/ 5 speed Guards Red |
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wheres the turbo?
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Its mounted on the passenger side manifold. I'll post pics of my progress regarding the turbo system at a later time. Right now I have to focus on getting it to run without puking oil.
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1984 928's w/ 5 speed Smoked Quartz Metalic 1982 928's Turbo w/ 5 Speed Platinum Metalic 1978 Euro Widebody w/ 5 speed Guards Red |
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Wow, not much room there. Yeah, post pics when you get a spare chance.
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1981 Porsche 928 "Euro" Auto Gunsmoke Metallic Flat - Black Interior 1983 Porsche 928S "US" Auto Light Bronze (Copper) Metallic - Brown Interior **SOLD** ![]() |
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Architecture & Porsche's
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I like buying discounted 928's that need the TB & WP: once done, there's peace of mind. If it's really blowing oil out that fast, you need to ensure you're not pressurizing the crankcase as well: that'll blow out seals very, very quickly.
If all the hoses to the intake & oil filler are still as-factory, then you're pressurizing the crankcase.
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Porsche Club Racing National Scrutineer '89 Andial 951 '82 928R '74 911 RSR 3.6 |
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I like buying discounted 928's that need the TB & WP: once done, there's peace of mind. If it's really blowing oil out that fast, you need to ensure you're not pressurizing the crankcase as well: that'll blow out seals very, very quickly.
If all the hoses to the intake & oil filler are still as-factory, then you're pressurizing the crankcase.
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Did you get into boost much during those 2 miles?
If so isn't losing a few quarts normal for a turbo? ![]() I'd say fill it up with oil again and find out where its coming from. After sitting for a couple years maybe its something that just needs some run time to fix? |
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There seem to be a few things missing - radiator...? belts for AC Compressor & Alternator.. even with oil you wouldn't have got far...!
So did it come to you without all of that or was that a "during rebuild" picture... No oil - not good... whats leaking/blowing? Alan
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That pic is where I am at as of now. I have removed all that stuff in order to get to the leak. It is coming from behind the timing cover that is against the block, behind the dampner.
The leak isn't due to pressurizing the crankcase. At least not at this point. I can crank the car over and it will leak. It's such a large amount of oil it is a little baffling. Usually fron't main seals will weap oil, not gush oil. Maybe I will find something else once I get the dampner off. I have company so I can't really work on it now.
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1984 928's w/ 5 speed Smoked Quartz Metalic 1982 928's Turbo w/ 5 Speed Platinum Metalic 1978 Euro Widebody w/ 5 speed Guards Red Last edited by Fabio421; 05-20-2008 at 11:28 AM.. |
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That's the front main seal: odd to be leaking THAT much without the aid of a boosted crankcase: changes are your rear might be leaking too, but still, ensure your intake hoses below your throttle body are not still hooked up to your oil fill can, otherwise, the lower hose is pressurized during boost & putting 5-8psi into your crankcase will blow those front/rear main seals out very, very quickly, throwing oil everywhere & not having the usual slow leak.
From your picture, they look OEM (which is bad) Mark
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Quote:
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Hmm..just thinking out loud, could the oiling of the turbo be a new leak area to look for aside from the usual suspects? How do the oil lines route? Congrats on the car! It's nice that it went to a good home. I would love to see it someday. ![]()
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Updates????
Boost will push the entire seal out> when experimenting with my turbo car, I had a hell of a time securing the MAF-replacing pipe at the throttle housing as there was so much force (even at 3-4psi) that it would break most every temporary plastic strap/clamp, etc. When you have larger surface areas under boost, there's much more pressure. My guess is that the entire FMS has been pushed out about 1/4" or so, allowing a generous amount of oil to pass. I wouldn't figure that the oil-outlet would be this issue since it's on the passenger's rear in lieu of the front of the engine. Mark.
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The oil catch can is not plumbed in to the intake. It is not pressurized. It is plumbed into the airbox before the filter.
I love how everyone assumes that the leak is caused by the turbo. The fact that the car has been sitting for a year and a half has the most to do with the leak in my opinion. The next car that comes up with an oil leak and also has aftermarket wheels, please be sure to point your fingers at those evil aftermarket wheels. ![]() As for updates, I don't have any. I have a family member in the hospital and my Mom is here visiting me as well. I won't be able to work on the car until the weekend most likely.
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Well, John & I are not poo-pooing turbos...I"m just pointing out possible massive oil leak going off the picture. Sorry to sound negative, glad you're on our boat.
![]() Mark
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I had a front seal come apart in big brittle chunks. Ya, it will spew oil alright.
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The new seal and timing belt came today. I pick up the Kempf tool and flywheel lock tomorrow afternoon so I should be back on the road sometime Saturday. Woohoo!!!
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Update: I replaced the crank seal and it was the source of the leak.
I didn't put everything back together because my drivers side cam gear appears to be cracked. I have asked others opinion if they think it's a crack. Opinion seems split. The gear passed the dye test but my dye is about 5 years old so I don't know whether or not I can trust it. I am taking the gear to be X ray'ed today to be sure. Other than that, things are peachy. ![]()
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how about an aluminum weld over the alleged crack & a balancing bead on the other side of the pulley to assist?
Was your FMS pushed out or split or just old?
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Let's see..... removed the cracked piece and welded it. did some high rpm driving to blow out the cobwebs, and the gear busted anyway (probably off balance or heating from welding just started more cracking), and then the T-belt broke....busted valves....cam gear end screwed up....motor trashed.........ad nauseum. replace it......duh.... --Russ Last edited by rhjames; 05-28-2008 at 10:20 PM.. |
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