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Broke and Poor 928 Owner
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Brandon, Fl
Posts: 12
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Replacing Window Outer Seal Lower Scrapper
After much reflection, and no info on the net, on how to this I decided to give it a try on my own. The lower window outer seal front doors specifically. Mine were cracked and looked horrible. First you have to find them...hang on to wallet there not cheap. Ok the big deal on these is the placement of the lower portion of the seal in the door and at the same time the insertion of the nipple into the 1/8 inch groove in the door. There is no way to do this-successfully- with the door window in place. So after you take the door panel away-mind the placement of wires- raise the window 3/4 up to loosen all the supporting nuts. Pull the window out. Set the window aside. Thoroughly clean the grove of all debris (wax rubber etc,). Get a can of WD 40 and spray into the 1/8 inch groove (channel) in the door(thats runs the length of the door). Place your hand underneath through the door to push the seal upward to catch the lower groove on to the lower metal protruding holder (runs the length of the door). Now take a very small screwdriver flat head (Stanley sells them you'd almost use them to repair glasses but bigger) and gently press the nipple into the channel. I started in the middle. Went about 8 inches and then pulled the rubberseal (while in the channel started- the WD40 slippery effect) to the very end toward the rearview mirror. You need to lay the whole seal out to the length of the door. Make sure that the bend in the end of the seal lays flat just to where the outer door channel makes the arc. Ok keep gently pressing in the rubber in. I took the back of a rubber screwdriver and gently ran the plastic rounded end over the lenghth of the seal to ensure it evened out the bumps. Ok now that this is done the only way that window is going back in is if you take it apart. Place it on a gentle surface (carpet) loosen the srcrews and gently tap a screwdriver with a rubber mallet and separate the metal holder away from the window. Ok clean evevrything nicely and then take the window and insert it back into the door. Minus the hardware. The window goes in with no problem. you do need someone else to hold it while you place the mounting pieces back on the window (while its inthe door). Gently lift the window so the nylon wheel in the window regulator finds the channel. Reattach the screws and put the door panel back on. Thats it. I know this sounds crazy but its the only way. No wonder 5 body shops turned me down and ran when they saw the seal. Noone would touch the job. I know why now
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08-10-2008, 07:33 PM
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RicerSchnitzzzle
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 385
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Good write up, any pics?
Mine are in desperate need also, Cost has put them low on my list. Has anyone found a DIY product that will work for less? Not looking concours here, just functional and not too butt ugly.
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'81 Euro 'S' 928 5-Speed 5.0L Hybrid "Ricerschnitzzzle" Wish list: RollBar, New Helmet and driving lessons  Wishes Done: Body kit, seats, No cat, Headers, X, Afterburners, 3" exhaust, short shifter , 17" TT Rims, 250HP N2O, MSD ignition w/retard+rev limit, MSD billet distributor, Accel Coil. 5.0L block, ported heads, JE race springs + .503 "S+" cams |
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08-10-2008, 07:58 PM
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Network Native
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: SoCal
Posts: 10,349
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08-10-2008, 10:44 PM
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Broke and Poor 928 Owner
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Brandon, Fl
Posts: 12
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I took a couple of pics. Will post later. I have priced out the seals and whats funny is that you can buy them in England cheaper than the USA. Forestfine.com has them about 40.00 cheaper. I bought a Rear Spoiler from them (NEW OEM) for about $500.00. Go figure. One thing--when you pull the window out be gentle. The Nylon Rivet that holds the window in the channel is fragile (after 26 years). I broke mine in two and since the Regulator Rivet is incorporated you have to buy the whole thing.
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08-11-2008, 07:40 AM
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