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Fuel Pump Specs?

I am looking for the specs on this fuel pump:

928 608 104 01

I need LPH (flow) and PSI

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Old 12-04-2008, 05:48 PM
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I crossed that to a 0 580 464 017 -> 0 580 254 053

Here is a spec page.
http://www.boschfuelpumps.com/specs.html
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Old 12-04-2008, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPDano View Post
I am looking for the specs on this fuel pump:

928 608 104 01

I need LPH (flow) and PSI
80-86
928 608 104 01
Bosch 0 580 464 017
140L/h 300 kPa (44psi)

edit: hmm, differs to what Mike posted above. I'll go dig up the Bosch catalogue I saved the info from and link it.
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Last edited by Xlot; 12-05-2008 at 01:04 AM..
Old 12-05-2008, 01:00 AM
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Here's the catalogue with the pressure and flow rate data. search it for

0 580 464 017

http://www.germanex.de/download/c1045/Bosch_Kraftstofffoerderung.pdf
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Old 12-05-2008, 01:06 AM
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Thanks guys. Now that I got numbers. Is this the correct one for a CIS? This is the one in my car now, which is CIS. I have another one sitting here next to me that I got from a fellow 928er and he said it was for a CIS but has a long neck on the electrical terminal side (Bosch 0 580 254 984), which is 165 lph and 72.5 psi. Am I currently running the wrong pump for my 1981 Euro CIS?
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Old 12-05-2008, 03:15 AM
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It might not be the right "number", but I doubt its any issue. The differences other than fittings I expect would only show up under high load (wide open throttle high rpm etc.). At idle etc. anything should work that meets the minimum pressure requirements.
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US 83 zinc metallic 5 spd, aka the nice car.
Euro 85 black, 5 spd, the fast rough track car maybe car. SOLD
Euro 84 red, AT, only car in garage in years, my parts car, soon to go last 7 years.
Old 12-05-2008, 06:45 AM
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Hi Mike,

72.5 vs 44 PSi

165 vs 140 LPH

These numbers would only matter in a WOT situation? I am trying to weed out any issues that might be causing my engine to run like crap at low rpms. I know that I don't got the A/F adjusted correctly yet, but until I do, I want to make sure all the supporting things are correct.
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:33 AM
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CIS needs 5 bar to run correctly. It is the wrong pump. Remember the pressure has to physically open the injectors. It also acts against the diaphragm in the CIS distributor until it equals control pressure. CIS is VERY sensitive to differences in pressure. The smaller pump's outlet pressure could drop below 3.8bar which is the control pressure when hot.

Use the long neck pump.
Walbro GLC608 is a great pump for the CIS. Or you can overkill it with the Wlabro P598 @255L/hr or the Bosche 044 @ 300L/hr.
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Old 12-05-2008, 07:41 AM
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Hi N20,

I kinda thought that this may affect the CIS. This is good to know, plus the pump (long neck) seems to work perfectly. I may have an issue with the hard pipe connector from Fuel Filter to new Pump. Is the connector a different part number?
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Old 12-05-2008, 08:14 AM
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I think the connectors are interchangable. Try taking the connectors off the old pump and putting them on the newer one. I'd have to go look at mine to be sure. The hard line to the fuel filter may cause it to sit father to the side, but the mounts should still hoild it in place. IIRC my fuel filter is not centered over the pump anymore.
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Wishes Done: Body kit, seats, No cat, Headers, X, Afterburners, 3" exhaust, short shifter , 17" TT Rims, 250HP N2O, MSD ignition w/retard+rev limit, MSD billet distributor, Accel Coil. 5.0L block, ported heads, JE race springs + .503 "S+" cams
Old 12-05-2008, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N2O-SHARK View Post
I think the connectors are interchangable. Try taking the connectors off the old pump and putting them on the newer one. I'd have to go look at mine to be sure. The hard line to the fuel filter may cause it to sit father to the side, but the mounts should still hoild it in place. IIRC my fuel filter is not centered over the pump anymore.
Yes, this is exactly what will happen. Mine is centered now. I will try and replace this during the weekend.
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Old 12-05-2008, 09:06 AM
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I still think it should be fine at lower rpm, and only an issue at full power. No point in guessing about it though, fuel pressure needs to be measured to verify pump, regulator, etc. operation. Ultimately it needs the proper pump, but what he has may be fine to sort out the rest of the fuel injection, and money now might best be spent on what has to be done now.
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US 83 zinc metallic 5 spd, aka the nice car.
Euro 85 black, 5 spd, the fast rough track car maybe car. SOLD
Euro 84 red, AT, only car in garage in years, my parts car, soon to go last 7 years.
Old 12-05-2008, 09:55 AM
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Leo--

you could just put one of these on it and never worry about fuel delivery again......




it's good for 1000hp efi engines.






--Russ
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Old 12-06-2008, 09:13 PM
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NICE! But wouldn't you need a regulator for this? I put the other one (long neck) and it runs fine, seems a little better but I still can't get the A/F right. At least it's drivable to get it to someone who can get it right (for a fee).

Quote:
Originally Posted by rhjames View Post
Leo--

you could just put one of these on it and never worry about fuel delivery again......




it's good for 1000hp efi engines.

Hi Russ,








--Russ
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Old 12-07-2008, 05:30 AM
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Leo you are headed down an expensive path if you take a CIS car in for AF issues. The cure is not turning a screwdriver its replacing the injectors, WUR, fuel distributor, and pressure regulators. I think Stephan is buying a CIS fuel injection test set, why not wait and see how he does with it?

Or take advantage of the 1/2 price parts sale and start shotgun replacing those items, just like most shops are likely to do except with full price parts.
Old 12-07-2008, 10:48 AM
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Good advice. I waited this long so far. Doing some of the body prep, sand and primer today.
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Old 12-07-2008, 10:58 AM
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CIS is a simple system to work on. A/F is controlled by the set screw you access through the hole in the front of the air filter box. Small adjustments make a huge difference. Clockwise richens the mix. 1/8 turn, drive, test, adjust again.

As long as your WUR is fine it's an easy adjustment. Wait for the car to exit the warm up cycle so the bypass valve will be closed and the control pressure will be stable.
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'81 Euro 'S' 928 5-Speed 5.0L Hybrid "Ricerschnitzzzle" Wish list: RollBar, New Helmet and driving lessons
Wishes Done: Body kit, seats, No cat, Headers, X, Afterburners, 3" exhaust, short shifter , 17" TT Rims, 250HP N2O, MSD ignition w/retard+rev limit, MSD billet distributor, Accel Coil. 5.0L block, ported heads, JE race springs + .503 "S+" cams

Last edited by N2O-SHARK; 12-07-2008 at 02:07 PM..
Old 12-07-2008, 01:58 PM
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How do I know if the WUR is bad. Also, is the WUR on a K Jet interchangable with the WUR on a L Jet?
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Old 12-07-2008, 04:18 PM
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WUR is CIS only, but the same part for all the CIS 928's as far as I know.

I haven't looked at the workshop manual, but its a pressure regulator with several inputs, so my guess is that you measure the pressure and compare it to some reference value under various input conditions.

What I think I would start with is cleaning and checking all the injectors, then see if you can adjust the AFR to a reasonable value.
Old 12-07-2008, 06:47 PM
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Hi Mike,

Before I installed the injectors, I cleaned them all and put some cleaner in them and used my compressor to blow to see the spray. They all spayed great. I only had to replace a couple of them, especially the one that was in the frozen cylinder on old engine.

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1983 Porsche 928S "US" Auto Light Bronze (Copper) Metallic - Brown Interior **SOLD**
Old 12-07-2008, 06:56 PM
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