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the expansion valve is under the cowl panel under the hood just on the driver side of center, it is also next to the heater hoses.
Make sure that you have a good allen wrench to remove/loosen the bolts for it otherwise you will be drilling the heads off. You should also consider removing the fuel cooler bracket so it will move |
Ok, just to keep you all updated and to finish out this topic. I picked up my ride on Friday from the AC Shop (Eskimo A/C in El Cajon, CA. I gots the AC now!! It ended up being a little bit more than expected, but that was having them replace the Expansion Valve. They actually showed my old one and them actually had to cut it out. I guess the fitting to the valve wasn't budging, so the made multiple cuts in order to open the threaded area. I'll post pics of location of Expansion Valve for future use.
I replaced both hoses per Merlins advice. My new Drier was fine eventhough I released the pressure when I installed it. I guess I must have installed all the O-Rings correctly as I have no leaks. Now, my final phase on this project is to sort out my Actuator leaks (diaphragms) and I should be golden. By default with no vacuum to Actuators, Cold Air goes to Door Vents and Windshield Defrost Vents. I have to recommend if you are in need of AC work and in San Diego, Lee at Eskimo AC is very fair and his crew did a great job in getting this done in a timely manner. |
Here's the pics of the Expansion Valve location.
Also, did a quick test of the AC on Freeway and streets. I temporarily blocked all the Defrost Vents till I get the Actuators figured out. AC goes to Leg area and Door Vents. It was a pretty cool morning, but my legs felt like I had Frostbite (exaggeration). AC works great. Although, I did get a small splash of water from the lower vent to legs when I was taking a sharp turn. Is something blocked as to why I was getting moisture inside the lower leg vents? |
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In your pictures, it looks like the capilarry tube from the freeze switch is rubbing on the wiper linkage. The cap tube is copper, and needs to ay down out of the way of that linkage when it moves. No sharp bends or kinks in it. Copper will also get brittle, work-hardens when there's continuous vibration flexing, and will crak eventually. Makes it worthwhile securing the tube down if you can, so it will last a little longer.
It seems like it's too often little stupid stuff that haunts the cars. This one of those things. Easily avoidable, fortunately. |
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Wet foot and new carpet, not good, should be draining to the ground.
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Drain hose probably plugged, left center of heater housing is a Y-shaped hose, 2 clamps runs thru firewall if yours is like my OB
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Oops, just starting to re-read my thread. The draining issue resolved itself. No more drippy issues.
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