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Pulling engine, 1 question?
Pulling engine out of my 86.5
Taking my time. Why do they want you to remove the two transmission mount bolts at the rear of the car? Am I looking at it wrong? Or is there a reason? |
possibly to push the trans / front bell housing back a bit to aid in pulling the engine out /off of the motor mounts. Is this a 5 speed or an auto??
5sp needs the clutch pack removed first. auto needs the flex plate disconnected, mark it to the flywheel |
makes sense. you need acouple inches, to clear the clutch ass. and to get the bell housing cleared.
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Automatic transmission.
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Loosening those bolts will save the trans mounts from being contorted and allow the parts to move easier for alignment.
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What about lifting eyes? There are none on the motor, are these just your normal homemade angle iron eyes?
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There's an eye at the right front and left rear of the engine. Are you sure they're not there?
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Please, can someone tell me where the lifting eyes attach to the engine on an 85 - 86 928? I do not see any on mine and I am ready to extract. I do not want to get it too far off the Center of Gravity.
Picture would be nice. |
I can't answer for a 32V, but a 16V has two. One on each front and rear corner, can't remember exactly which corner. They are so off balance that even an engine tilt device wont get it even. I had to use a strap to the front pulley to balance the engine.
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lifting hooks for the engine aare at the right front corner and the left rear corner.
I hope they are still attached |
Fred, if they are not there, just get a hold of 928 Intl and buy a couple of used ones (50% off) for a few more days.
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Made my own, step 1 complete, now what???? Valves.
Found, cracked flex plate, bolts missing everywhere, lots of shabby work previously performed. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1260835901.jpg |
Congrats on your outing. ;)
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I would suggest that you tape a towel folded over to the top of each fender use blue tape this prevents most scratches from the work your doing the red cover will fit neatly along the front of the bumper cover to protect that as well
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Roger from time to time does a deal on the real Colgan set, well worth the money.
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Yikes! The engine was pulled with the radiator still mounted! I can't watch.
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Cracked flex plate, I wonder what iceberg that could be the tip of?
In the long run, I think its best to tear everything completely apart and put it back together renewing as needed. |
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"Upon further inspection..." Yep, you two are right. Glad to hear it, a new radiator could break the budget. (Well, at least my paltry budget). :)
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Lucky you. You actually have a budget.
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Ready to pull head, has anyone removed the camshafts without the special tools? Carefully removing each cap slowly all at the same time? I do not have the tools to hold the cams.
Please let me know. Also, what are the two little dowels for on the ring gear? |
Never mind, I made some tools.
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I've removed all my cams using the be careful mode, break the bolts loose in a pattern, then do each one a turn or so at a time making sure the cam isn't stuck in the bottom bearing.
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Yaahoo, the head is back together, valves are in I mean, now I am goint to sandblast and powder coat the aluminum intake components while I wait for my parts order, Injector seals, Tensioner boot, spark plug clips, etc,
I will post pictures when done. |
Engine is power washed
Finally got over 40 here, I was able to clean the engine block.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1263733245.jpg |
Ok, brining you up to date,
Every weekend I think, today is the day and then I stumble on something else I need.They shorted me an O ring for the water crossover and I am hooking up the timing belt warning light that had been disabled in the past.I have been able to find out where all the vacuum hoses and wire harnesses go, so maybe in a couple weeks VRooooom.Then it is on to clear the title. Damn snow......http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1264986131.jpg |
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