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Registered
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Green wire on distributor
Hey guys Nix here, quick story. My son was using the 928 and could'nt get it started after a quick stop. I examined the car and found the green wire to the distributor was rotted/ frayed at the connector on the non distributor side of the wire. I clipped off the connector and tied the wires together with wire nuts and electric tape. the car started and he drove home. The next day he was stranded again this time with a dead battery (brand new by the way) I jumped it and it started fine but only made it a half mile or so. It seems the battery is not charging now. I put it on the charger and got a full charge, installed it and ran the car. The battery meter started out at 12 and ran down past 0 while the car was running. I shut off the car and tried to restart but the battery was dead. Could i have caused this by cutting/splicing the green wire or is it just a flook. I have'nt tested the alternator yet, will do this weekend. Is that connector some kind of resistor or just a connector (on green wire) MPdano posted a pic of this wire on a response to an earlier post. Any info would help. Thanks
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Registered
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The green wire just sends the hall effect signal for the ignition circuit and is not part of the charging system. I would check all the connections at the alternator, jump post and battery, especially the grounds. It sounds like there is a bad connection somewhere in your charging circuit. As a last resort, the alternator can be pulled and tested at your local auto parts store.
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Dennis |
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Thanks for the info. I'll check wires and grounds this weekend. As for the green wire connector; does it need to be replaced asap or is the tie-off good for now. heres some pics.
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Moderator
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Oh Gawd, replace it please. Thats hurts me eyes.
Porsche 928 Forums dot com - View topic - Pics of my First 928 and Current Project
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1981 Porsche 928 "Euro" Auto Gunsmoke Metallic Flat - Black Interior 1983 Porsche 928S "US" Auto Light Bronze (Copper) Metallic - Brown Interior **SOLD** ![]() |
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Definitely replace it. Considering the characteristics of the signal and the loss of shielding, you run a high risk of losing spark/ignition.
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Dennis |
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SharkHead
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Agreed, replace the wire.
The ignition problems you may experience, particularly at higher rpm's, would be less voltage to the plugs less HP. What coil are you using, Bosch Red or Blue? You also may get some RF interference in any radio/stereo. Jon
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'79 928, 85k Opal Metallic '99 BMW 540i, 97k Titanium '72 BMW 3.0 csi, 85k km (euro Deutschland '82) Taiga |
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80 928
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Quote:
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1982 928 us
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take a pic of whole eng comp lets have a look
i remember when it came time to need a battery connected to test this and that and kept disconnecting when done for the day, finally was ready to leave it connected over night to test if any draws on it, sure enough it lost charge a couple more times still. Then it happened the bat stayed connected and charged for good and never a issue again. Definitely have to get all the fuses relays grounds cleaned, and every connection thats live make sure its plugged in not drawing any current draining bat. even if its a door light that has been disconnected or a motor like the hatch back that is shorted and continously runs. relays relay replacing -- even the contacts inside the relays will go. motors inside components go IF I HAD TO GUESS WHEN BAT DRAINS ITS HEATER BLOWER MOTOR. AND ITS FUSES RELAYS BLOW btw green wire looks good operative word for now. |
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Found It
Did a very unscientific test based on trouble spots you guys suggested. Started the car on a fresh battery. The voltage gauge satrted a little past 12 and started dropping slow but steady. Started jiggling wires and checking ground locations. When I got to the jump post I moved the wires on the main harness side of the post and BINGO the Idle pitch changed dramatically. I looked at the gauge and it was up past 12 and charging. I need to rewire everything, I've got bad wires everywhere. I just want to keep her running till I can check out all systems before I start the rebuild this spring. I'd like to have close to everything I need rather then order one part at a time after shes laid out all over the garage. Anywhooooo thanks for the hints, I'll be learning a lot this year when I dig in. Heres a quick upskirt for those who like em old and ugly......................NIX
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Moderator
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Awesome! A fellow CIS Guy. It will be fun, trust us
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1981 Porsche 928 "Euro" Auto Gunsmoke Metallic Flat - Black Interior 1983 Porsche 928S "US" Auto Light Bronze (Copper) Metallic - Brown Interior **SOLD** ![]() |
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Before:
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1981 Porsche 928 "Euro" Auto Gunsmoke Metallic Flat - Black Interior 1983 Porsche 928S "US" Auto Light Bronze (Copper) Metallic - Brown Interior **SOLD** ![]() |
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Registered
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Inspiration
You should make motivational posters with that car. I'm getting ready to go where you've already been so I hope you dont mind if I hit you up with a dopey question from time to time. Did a bit of inspecting this morning and it dont look good. I'm gonna start a new thread cause it looks like the wireing is the least of my problems, thanks.................NIX |
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Totally. There are a few CIS guys here and have probably been through what you are going to tackle. My whole harness was totally fried. I just rebuilt mine and it works perfectly. You gotta trust in yourself.
Harness Rebuild: Porsche 928 Forums dot com - View topic - Pics of my First 928 and Current Project
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1981 Porsche 928 "Euro" Auto Gunsmoke Metallic Flat - Black Interior 1983 Porsche 928S "US" Auto Light Bronze (Copper) Metallic - Brown Interior **SOLD** ![]() |
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Registered
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looking good mp are those two engines the same just wondering about nixons warm up regulator sits a different way to ours
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Registered
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The euros have a different mounting set up than the US versions. Not sure why.
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Dennis |
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oh.... ive a lot to learn yet cheers
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Moderator
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Yup, he be right on the $$
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1981 Porsche 928 "Euro" Auto Gunsmoke Metallic Flat - Black Interior 1983 Porsche 928S "US" Auto Light Bronze (Copper) Metallic - Brown Interior **SOLD** ![]() |
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