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Nice looking car, one of my favorite colors too.
Hatch receiver seems to have the rubber sleeve that wears out missing, Roger may have a replacement. |
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The hatch shifts and makes all kinds of racket while going over bumps. I figured I could make an adjustment. So the rubber sleeve wears out and the hatch loosens up? The passenger window crapped out and won't go back up. Happened right after I picked it up from the previous owner. Go figure. I pulled out the switches in the center console and sprayed them with electrical cleaner, but it didn't help. The window goes down fine, won't go back up. I suppose it's a bad motor. Where is the fuse block in this car? |
Usually its in the switch and it needs a little fine sandpaper treatment.
Fuse box (Central Electric panel, CE) is under passenger foot section. Fuse and relay diagram by year can be found at the 928Specialists website. You have all the manuals. Its well-covered. Good fold-out electrical diagrams, too. |
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Seats seem to be vinyl. I didn't realize that until you asked. I hope it lasts longer than leather. I found a vacuum diaphragm missing a hose. It's on the passenger side of the engine bay under the intake hose. The aft hose on this diaphragm curves upward toward the air pipe, but is not connected. The forward section goes down into the darkness, and I couldn't see what it's supposed to connect to. I took a photo. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1270683352.jpg |
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Thanks. The driver seat won't go forward or aft. The other seat functions work perfectly. I disconnected the switch and sprayed out the plugs and sockets, but no joy. Suppose the motor is bad in that, too? |
Bad switches, motors are usually fine, but sometimes the seats have broken gears.
Guess what that valve thats missing a hose costs. ;) 94411042900 VACUUM CONTROL VALVE $828.49 Better news on the hatch receiver. Hatch Latch Receiver Liner Replacement Available Now - Rennlist Discussion Forums *** The pricey value regulates the flow when the carbon canister is purged, it doesn't need to work perfectly as far as I can tell. |
Don't worry, we have sources for used pieces and lots of them, inexpensive.
Take your time. The seats should have a manual fore/aft adjustment, check manuals. The window motors get corroded and will sometimes work one way, not the other. Its covered on rennlist, Jadz928 and others have taken the motors apart and cleaned them, if you can't find it let me know. I just gave a motor away 2 weeks ago, but know where they can be found. |
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I'm glad the valve is still there. :D That valve may be what's causing the car to not want to start sometimes, like the vapors in the canister are not allowed to be used. The car's been funny today. Sometimes it'll start up with barely a tap on the ignition, other times it just doesn't want to start. Finally it starts sputtering and slowly comes back to life. The ten minutes later it'll start up fine again. |
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Thanx. I'm gonna go out and drive it again in a few minutes. I'm becoming addicted to it. Plus it runs better every time I drive it. I suppose it's slowly getting cleaned out after not being driven regularly for a very long time. That factory alarm system drives me nuts! |
Don't let Mike (DanglerB) scare with that high ticket item as Landseer is right. There are some real good "used parts" resources out there that we all use.
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Mike is usually right, too. Just traveling down a slightly different road.
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The car is slowly waking up. It runs better every time I drive it.
The shop that serviced it for at least the last seven years has been installing Castrol GTX 20W-50. I know you guys said that these flat-tappet valve engines require an oil with lots of zinc and moly. I don't think GTX is known for having high levels of those expensive ingredients. They charged the previous owner $129 to change his oil a month ago. I saw GTX 20W-50 at Pepboys for $20/5-QT jug. Granted, it takes 9 quarts to fill this case up, but I know that shop didn't pay $4/QT for it. |
The main power supply wire lays on the floor under the seat. It is know to corrode or break. Remove the seat and check to see it it has power. Its an easy fix.
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Thanks. :) But I got lucky, and so far, all my interior troubles have been switch-related. Two more gripes in the interior: cabin lights don't come on when the door opens, and the tach, oil pressure and alt gauges are intermittent. I'm kind of dreading tearing into the dash to fix the gauges. I figure I'm gonna be causing a bunch more problems just by going in there. |
It's hard for me to believe I've gotten this car running so well in just three weeks of ownership.
Thanks to you guys and your very helpful tips. :) |
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The red door lights were staying on constantly. I checked the two switches in the forward jambs and they were in good shape, and worked properly. But depressing either switch made no difference in the interior lighting or the red lights. So I removed the bulbs from the red light sockets as a temp fix. The passenger red light socket and terminals were more corroded than any electrical component I've ever seen in my life. I couldn't believe it, and I also couldn't believe it actually worked, or that it wasn't blowing fuses. The foot-well lights on the doors work in the up and down positions, but not in the center. The dome light doesn't work, either. I'm hoping it's just a blown bulb. Will check tomorrow. |
Got the dome lights working, and the door jamb switches are now working, too.
I worked on the lighting yesterday, got some things fixed, but it all came together today after I made a 40 mile trip on some extremely rough road: our freeways here in Hampton Roads, VA. The freeways are destroying my suspension, but are slowly fixing my lighting problems. |
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