CVs and TT 84 928S

[SolReaver]

Hey folks, I have the Shark up in the air, have pulled the CVs for rebuild, and I am getting ready to Rebuild the TT as there is a slight but definite chime like pinging coming from the area of the TT front most bearing. I had not planned on taking the car this far down during the first appraisal and rehab, but one thing led to another and here it is, up on stands with the engine in pieces and the transmission and TT about to come down and out. Replacing the Passenger rear strut tower led me to note the CV boots were cracked, so I pulled the CVs (those hub bolts are tough) and While I am here, Might as well address the Pinging TT.......oh well, it is only time and money.

I am asking for advice and opinion as to how to best accomplish this. I have reviewed the shop manual and am considering options as to rebuild parts, procedures and techniques. I read Sharkskin's write up and am strongly considering Constantine's Kit for the rebuild. I spoke with Constantine and he advised to pull the front cover and check the crank end play and flex plate. (seems reasonable) The hardware that will be involved has been hit wit PBlaster in preparation.

SO, If you have done this (or not) let me know what you think. Thanks.

[Landseer]

Drop exhaust and bell housing cover to do a flexplate check.

The 84 might still have a circlip system installed that would prevent TT pull-out and therefore not subject the flexplate to increaseing forward flex.

Take good pictures of what you find.

I've got pictures of transmission removal on 84 auto if you need.

[JhwShark]

I've got the subtle sound of the TT bearings on my '79 as well...so I am watching your progress.

I'll be doing it this year...not looking forward to having to do it under j-stands; even though I have a tall set and std set. Should I put the tall ones at the rear points or front points??

I will add the Porken TT device; anyone done this?
Jon

[SolReaver]

Landseer: Exhaust is already off as part of appraisal and refurb. How to get the transmission out while it is up on stands is a concern. I have gotten a transmission jack from HarbFrt. Bell housing cover bolts have been hit with P fluid. Will take pictures...Check. Yes, any visual aid(s) would be appreciated. I am a fairly competent mechanic (IMHO) but I have never gone THIS far into a 928 before and I really don't want to get bitten any more than necessary.

JhwShark: I didn't know Porken even made a TT device.... Thanks for the tip. I will look into it. I already want the bars and the tensioner. Not sure about where to put the larger Jacks. My guess at this point would be the rear as that is where the majority of the work is. However, that opinion may change with experience. Also, It looks like keeping the car level might be a good idea.

Question: Since the trans and TT will be removed, Do I need to support the engine as Sharkskin did, or is that not really necessary? I re read the write up and am a bit confused as to whether the engine will shift. I believe Sharkskin put the support in there just for added safety, but I am not sure if it is really needed.

[Landseer]

The engine will sit with all its weight on the motor mounts if they are fresh. I would rock mine around a bit during reassembly alignment, as I put in the TT/Trans as one unit.

I used a constantine clamp. Was on a budget, so didn't do TT bearings this time. Will pull/rebuild with constantine bearings another time. Easy to do the second time.

No issues on jackstands so long as it is high enough in the air and the jackstands are solid. I use 6 ton units.

In this thread there are a bunch of pictures scattered of a trans transplant job. Post #27 has some overview shots. The height of the car was just about right. Start with these. There are other pictures if you want me to find of the lowering process.
http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15890

[SolReaver]

OK guys, pulled off the lower bell housing and here is what I see. What do i do next? flexplate check with a straight edge? Mark the shaft with paint and release the clamping bolt? Do I even have to worry about it with this setup?

[SolReaver]

FYI this is what brought me this far in. Someone (not pointing fingers) put the wrong Strut tower in the passenger rear. Apparently , after some kind of accident. Speculation is welcome. the Link was also bent pretty badly, but they chose not to replace it. The thing handled like a shopping cart.












These are the old parts next to their replacements. When doing the shock towers, the CV's cracked, so out come the CV's for rebuild. and since I am THIS far in, I should address the TT bearing.

[stepson]

Your '84 will definately have the circlip on the end of the TT. That clamp bolt has never been touched from the factory. You can check it with a straightedge, but IMHO you will never have to worry about it as long as you have the circlip (which by the way is behind the flexplate. if you want to see it)

I thought Constantine would rebuild the TT for you if you bought his bearings. Is that not right?

There are plenty of threads about this procedure on the other forums. Do the search.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by SolReaver

FYI this is what brought me this far in. Someone (not pointing fingers) put the wrong Strut tower in the passenger rear. Apparently , after some kind of accident. Speculation is welcome. the Link was also bent pretty badly, but they chose not to replace it. The thing handled like a shopping cart.












These are the old parts next to their replacements. When doing the shock towers, the CV's cracked, so out come the CV's for rebuild. and since I am THIS far in, I should address the TT bearing.

Just wondering, how hard was it to pull those springs? What procedure did you take?

[SolReaver]

MPDano. Not too hard to do. The main difficulty I had was the big bolt at the bottom was locked up. I hit it with PenFluid for weeks before it eventually let go. One day it just it just came off like magic. The only trick involved in the procedure is to keep a jack under the tower to allow the bolt to slide in and out. Procuring the part was a bit of a nightmare thanks to a bad parts vendor, but I finally got the right one for the right price and the project goes on.

Stepson: When I talked to Constantine he did not mention rebuilding the TT, but was very helpful about the bearings and such. I think the kit is just that. SO my understanding is that I will be doing the work. I am going to take the TT apart to see what shape the carriers are in. As I said the "pinging" is minor, so I am going to see if the original carriers and harm bal are in good shape.

Glad to hear that the thrust bearing thing is a non issue. Although you can't see it, the paint appears cracked and so, the parts have been touched since the factory. I will check for the circlip.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by SolReaver

MPDano. Not too hard to do. The main difficulty I had was the big bolt at the bottom was locked up. I hit it with PenFluid for weeks before it eventually let go. One day it just it just came off like magic. The only trick involved in the procedure is to keep a jack under the tower to allow the bolt to slide in and out. Procuring the part was a bit of a nightmare thanks to a bad parts vendor, but I finally got the right one for the right price and the project goes on.

So it's ok to do this with rear wheels on ramps? Then put jack under the tower. Remove the single bolt on the bottom and the bolts inside the car on top? If this is good, then removing the shock, do I need a spring compressor?

[Mrmerlin]

a few notes the lower shock mounts are supposed to be bent one way and they can be installed either way but only one way is correct.

SO make sure when you fit the parts all back together that the lower shock pin is not bent, roll it on a flat surface, then use grease to hold in the beveled washers.

Make sure the shock lines up with the rest of the lower mounting parts if you have to force the lower pin into the mount then it may have to be turned 180 deg to line up, install the shocks with the lower sway bar mounts disconnected.
If your dropping the trans then first drop the rear crossmember try to mark the side to side distance before you remove the part then with the trans supported with a few tiedowns on the sway bar lower the trans, it will be easier to remove the trans and TT as a unit a few helpers are a good thing here.
Dont forget to remove the small bolt holding the bowden cable HOUSING to the front bell housing its hard to reach but it needs to come off if you want to pull the TT out as a unit, IIRC its a 5mm allen use PB blaster to soak it to find this bolt just follow the cable from the engine to where it meet the housing over the bellhousing

[SolReaver]

MPDano: Currently the car is supported on 4 points with jacks. When not in the way, I slide ramps under the tires as well. To do the job you could have the front on ramps, or staands, or even on the ground, but I find the car is easier to work with when it is all level. The back should be on jacks. I am using the jacking points that are about 8 inches inboard of the lower corner of the rear door. I can take a pic if ya want. As with most used 928s I can see ample evidence of people jacking and supporting improperly so I take a bit more time and put a pair of three tons under the best part I can get to. With the back on jacks, floor jack the assembly from the bottom and load it just enough to give it a neutral feel so that the big bolt doesn't bind. Take off the front Nut, The big bolt comes off rearward, three 13 mms at the top and the link come off and there you have it! You will not need a spring compressor to remove the tower...But I believe that it might be a good idea should you want to take the tower apart and replace the shock inside. Not sure though, as I haven't actually done it.

Anyone know where I can get the adjustment tool? and Does anyone need the Tower that was incorrect (for my car) It would be nice to find a good home for it.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by SolReaver

MPDano: Currently the car is supported on 4 points with jacks. When not in the way, I slide ramps under the tires as well. To do the job you could have the front on ramps, or staands, or even on the ground, but I find the car is easier to work with when it is all level. The back should be on jacks. I am using the jacking points that are about 8 inches inboard of the lower corner of the rear door. I can take a pic if ya want. As with most used 928s I can see ample evidence of people jacking and supporting improperly so I take a bit more time and put a pair of three tons under the best part I can get to. With the back on jacks, floor jack the assembly from the bottom and load it just enough to give it a neutral feel so that the big bolt doesn't bind. Take off the front Nut, The big bolt comes off rearward, three 13 mms at the top and the link come off and there you have it! You will not need a spring compressor to remove the tower...But I believe that it might be a good idea should you want to take the tower apart and replace the shock inside. Not sure though, as I haven't actually done it.

Anyone know where I can get the adjustment tool? and Does anyone need the Tower that was incorrect (for my car) It would be nice to find a good home for it.

Yeah, pics would be awesome as I don't know the proper terms of the parts mentioned.

[Mrmerlin]

also the rear sway bar links are made for each side so they are both different if you have to force the bolts then try swapping the links

[SolReaver]

MMerlin: yes, you are absolutely correct, the orientation of the shock towers and the links is important. IOW swapping driver side and passenger side is not a good idea. +1 on using grease to hold the beveled washers in place while sliding the "pin" , I used a bit of tape as well. If it doesn't slide with the lower end of the assembly supported by a jack, you are probably doing something wrong. Luckily the vendors know this and understood when I wanted a Passenger side link and tower assembly. Upon closer inspection of the parts that came Out, I am not sure if everybody understands this subtle, but important point.

Oh, and thanks for that little tip about the almost invisible bolt, you may have saved me the cost and aggravation of replacing a bowden cable.

MPDano, yea, give me a bit to put up some pics. I am visual so terminology can be confusing to me as well. I like to be sure that people understand what I am saying so that they can let me know if I am doing things properly.

[SolReaver]

MPDano: ok here is the jack point on the back and the front I am using. Does that help? I know jacking is not a real big issue, but do it wrong and whoo boy....BTW when under any car I bring along my friend, a beat up old rim. Should the car fall, my friend will give me 9 1/2" of space. It could mean the difference between a trip to the emergency room and a toe tag.

[MPDano]

Awesome! That's perfect! I am actually doing a Half-Shaft as I write. I also took mega pics. Getting ready to put it back on. I only did one side for now since both boots were split open. Boy, is this a dirty job.

[SolReaver]

Dirty job, tell me about it! Good thing I was wearing grungies.
OK I just did the preliminary cleaning and disassembly. It turns out one of the cv's or Halfshafts is new and the other one is original. I can only speculate that whatever incident wiped out the original strut tower also necessitated replacing the halfshaft as well. I look forward to finding out how much more damage I will find. Sigh. I will cross my fingers and hope that the parts that were replaced absorbed most of the impact. Anyhow, here are the pics. The newer one was found on the driver side, and the older one was found on the passenger side. As it is customary to swap them around when servicing them (or possibly they just got confused..who knows?), I am guessing that the original one was on the drivers side at the time of impact.

Here is the pair unwrapped from last week.


The older one, note original clamps on boot


the newer one, (or maybe rebuilt) note screw clamps on boot


Pull the clips and take it all apart. Careful to keep track of what goes to passenger and what goes to driver side.


The bevel goes towards the outside of the car, the circle mark goes to the clip end.


Hub end of the older one, passenger side.


Hub end of the new(er one, driver side) The threads were slightly buggered as if someone used them to draw the cv into the spline rather than patiently wiggling it in....Forcing a shaft in...tsk ..tsk...THAT kind of thinking will never get ya a second date.


OK, I will get a single rebuild kit and some extra Grease as the newer one has nice soft boots and is not contaminated on the hub end ( I took a peek under the rubber) Not sure if I want to clean it and re grease it as it seems good to go. The older one has both boots torn and is contaminated on both ends, so it needs a full cleaning and re greasing. The bearings, feel fine though, Soo.. I am thinking I got to it in time. All parts are placed and tagged in bags and I will clean and grease the inboard bearings (both sets) in a future installment. Thanks for watching!

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by SolReaver

With the back on jacks, floor jack the assembly from the bottom and load it just enough to give it a neutral feel so that the big bolt doesn't bind. Take off the front Nut, The big bolt comes off rearward, three 13 mms at the top and the link come off and there you have it! You will not need a spring compressor to remove the tower...But I believe that it might be a good idea should you want to take the tower apart and replace the shock inside. Not sure though, as I haven't actually done it.

When you say front, are you talking about this one or the one on the other side?