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Front wheel bearings
When I replaced my front wheel bearings, I did as the book said. After re assembling everything, there seems to be a lot of movement in the wheel. Ball joints are good. The movement is definatly in the bearing, I tried tightening a little more and still have movement. I have not done much work with front tapered style bearings. I heard there is supposed to be some play in the wheel. Anyone have some insight on this? Id rather not tear up these new bearings if I am doing something wrong. Thanks, Bill.
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06-29-2010, 08:07 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 845
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Movement how? Front to back? Top to bottom? Both? How much movement? Did you change the race or just the bearings?
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06-29-2010, 08:14 AM
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I have to do the same on my right-front. Grabbing popcorn and watching.
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1981 Porsche 928 "Euro" Auto Gunsmoke Metallic Flat - Black Interior 1983 Porsche 928S "US" Auto Light Bronze (Copper) Metallic - Brown Interior **SOLD** 
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06-29-2010, 08:37 AM
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The movement is top to bottom. I just replaced my shocks, front and rear, got an alignment which seems to be right on, but I still feel a bit squirrly on uneven pavement. I know my rack is probably original, not leaking but with both fronts off the ground and the steering wheel unlocked, I can pretty easily turn the wheel left to right and watch the steering wheel move. So most of that can be coming from a worn rack. It just doesent seem right to have clicking up and down when checking wheel bearings. I replaced races too, got a chance to use my new press. I think all the parts together including wheel seals was under 100.00. Maybe they were fine, and Im just chasing my tail and itching to spend more money on this car lol.
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06-29-2010, 08:48 AM
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06-29-2010, 09:01 AM
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OK man, you have to understand that there is Resistance from the grease when you first tighten it up.
Try this method. Tighten it as you turn the wheel, (continue to tighten it until it is tight) now back it off until you feel the pressure/load, go away. (sorry layman's terms) give the wheel half a spin. now tighten the nut until you see the washer turn and stop check for play (you should have NO play) Heres the thing. you want to tighten it right up to seat the bearing and square up the cup if it was not installed square. then you want to back it off, go forward, then back, forward, then back to find zero preload. (all this done while rolling the hub back and forth by hand) from this point tighten 1/4 turn. I don't know how Porsche says to do it but this is the standard for tapered bearing setup
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Names Brad, Canada, Fort McMurray. Car is a 1989 928 5L AT from Japan, 17" rims, 95,000 k vin#WPOZZZ92ZKS842476 |
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06-29-2010, 11:53 AM
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Well, I did what you said and it seems fine now. Ordered some swaybar bushings. Now on to my trans problems. Shaking. I think by this winter, I may just disassemble everything on this car and rebuild piece by piece. It would be much easier to do some research and piece it together as I go than it would to be in a big hurry to get it done to get back on the road. For now, this car is my daily driver. I hope soon it becomes my rebuild project. I always wanted to strip down a car and start from scratch. Funny thing is, this was my dream car back in the
80's and now due to depreciation, I can own one. Its worth every penny I put into it. Thanks guys. Bill. |
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06-29-2010, 12:44 PM
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clieopatra
