half-shaft??

[JhwShark]

I was taking the shark for a drive to prep for SMOG check and...
Noise from right rear at speed while entering the highway, so I slowed down and returned home the noise went away once on city streets. I have no loss of power, no vibration, and braking is OK.
I figured maybe the parking brake was dragging but after pulling off the disc and inspecting all looks good...
then I saw some grease on the cross-member under the diff side shaft joint and noticed the right shaft has some play while rotating the hub where the left shaft does not.

Opinions on if this is a rebuild the CV joint or bigger issue??

Also, is it OK to take for the SMOG test prior to any work? It will be on the CA test only rig.

BTW, Leo your write up on your half shaft may be useful for me...it is very good particularly with all the forum commentary.
Thanks,
Jon

[Pete R]

Usually, the cv's start to "clunk" when on and off the gas. Could be a wheel bearing. Mine made "whirr" when they went bad. I could get it to go away by turning slightly and unloading the wheel it would change tones. CV are easier on a 79. The later years the outer cv is part of the axle that goes through the wheel. Getting that giant nut off thats torqued to 295 ft lbs is a little beyond the normal 3/8 drive socket kit.

[Mrmerlin]

Note torque on the axle nut is 320ft/lb
Check the CV bolts that hold the inner (and outer joints to the hub flange if you have them) and the trans output flange.

[JhwShark]

Thanks Pete & Stan,

I had some rain in the afternoon and night so will check out suggestions when dry.

The radial play that I observe when rotating the hub makes me think CV first..no relative play rotating the left rear only the right about a radial inch or so (maybe 3-6 degrees)..and I don't have any rocking latitude on the hub which makes me think bearings is lower on the issue list?? Also, the grease directly under the inner CV but I couldn't see any cracked boot; lighting was not the best though.

I cant imagine a diff doing this on one side, only 82,xxx miles.
Jon

[MPDano]

I would be hesitant to run a Smog Check under the conditions you stated. Test only or not, they still put it on the rollers. If that CV gives out and something goes flinging and damages your car or possibly the guys smog equipt. That's gonna cost you more that R&Ring your CV. Mrmerlin is correct as those bolts are torqued super tight, maybe check that first. I would also think that a bearing, you could get your tire off the ground (via jack) and see if theres play that way.

Also FYI, the clamps included in those CV Rebuild kits are junk. You need the squeeze type (not sure of the proper name), which you use pliers to tighten. I think rjm65 said he got some from NAPA.

[MPDano]

Oh, and pics are worth a 1,000 words here.

[JhwShark]

It is raining but inbetween the rain I got a couple of pic's. The radial movement is only on the right. The axel shaft also can be moved wheel to tranny about a cm and no movement like it on the left side.

On the pic the grease is visible below the rubber boot on the x-bar.

[MPDano]

Yeah, looks like you got a cracked boot, but most of us have that. There's so much Centrifugal force that your bearings are probably still caked with enough grease. You'll need to take care of that as dirt will also get pulled into the bearings.

With your rear wheels off, twist those CV joints and see if you have any play.

[JhwShark]

Thanks Leo,

I have radial play rotating the right wheel, the CV bolts are tight. I also have some play on the axle shaft when I grab and pull/push in/out between the wheel and tranny/dif. Non of these two types of play are on the left side. No apparent motion when trying to rock the wheel (bearings seem tight) but the back bearings are not like the front.

I suspect CV rebuild on the right side.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by JhwShark

Thanks Leo,

I have radial play rotating the right wheel, the CV bolts are tight. I also have some play on the axle shaft when I grab and pull/push in/out between the wheel and tranny/dif. Non of these two types of play are on the left side. No apparent motion when trying to rock the wheel (bearings seem tight) but the back bearings are not like the front.

I suspect CV rebuild on the right side.

Yup, I think your right. I would jump on the Used Sale at 928 intl and buy that right side and then rebuild it using a couple kits. Don't use the clamps, but buy some of the clampable type, not screw type.

[Landseer]

I zip tie the boots.

[JhwShark]

Thanks guy's...half-shaft time.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by Landseer

I zip tie the boots.

I also heard this is another way to go.

[JhwShark]

Got the half-price special and a couple of boot kits on the way...looking forward to a dry day...64ft/lbs to torque the bolts, blue loktite and no gasket between the CV joint and the tranny or wheel flange.

On an issue I smelled while under the right side...gas. I opened up the fuel filter/accumulator panel and see some gas residue on the outside of the accumulator. I also have been having a little warm start issue...now I know the cause?? A degraded/bad accumulator will cause a warm start issue right? SO buy a used one as they are not repairable...is this correct?

Thanks,
Jon

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by JhwShark

Got the half-price special and a couple of boot kits on the way...looking forward to a dry day...64ft/lbs to torque the bolts, blue loktite and no gasket between the CV joint and the tranny or wheel flange.

On an issue I smelled while under the right side...gas. I opened up the fuel filter/accumulator panel and see some gas residue on the outside of the accumulator. I also have been having a little warm start issue...now I know the cause?? A degraded/bad accumulator will cause a warm start issue right? SO buy a used one as they are not repairable...is this correct?

Thanks,
Jon

I don't believe they are repairable and yes, this is known cause of hard hot starts. Some have found loose clamps causing leaks too or bad hoses. Time to score more on that 1/2 price sale.

[Mrmerlin]

buy a new accumulator