Front jacking point

[harborman]

Forgive me, I know this was covered in previous posts and I have read other forums.

Someone indicated it was fine to put a jack in front, under the cross member. I am assuming this is under the steering rack with the cover plate on it, just in back of the oil pan, to put a 2x4 on the jack pad first to prevent damage to that area. Is this the area to place the jack?

It seems this would allow raising the front evenly and then place stands under the jacking points on each side. Is this safe to do? Previously I have jacked the car at the jack pad, placed a jack stand under the large semi round support just inside the wheel area on each side, but this prevents me from moving around more freely.

[riber.bentsen]

Taken from my post at porsche928forums.com - IMO the best way to do it.

Use a slab of wood, put it on the jack, place under structual beam under driver/pass. footwell. Raise car, put jackstand under jackpoint. This is how I do it, and works like a charm. Be aware that you need to use a chunk of wood of fairly large size to distribute weight evenly - else you will bend/destroy the beam

For the rear, just jack on the transmission cradle crossbeam

[Mrmerlin]

Riber jacking on the square member under the floor is the weak spot .
.
I suggest to jack from the front tow hook plate on the front of either lower control arm,
once the car is lifted then place a stand under the front jack point next to the rocker panel then you can jack up the front cross member with a block of wood on the jack. And place the other jack stand on the other side.
Only Caveat is to make sure the jack plate is capturing the front tow plate dont use wood The plate can slip off if its not centered on the jacking pad

For the rear jacking the rear cross member is OK if you use a piece of wood so the jack wont damage the aluminum

[Pete R]

I jack the rear first under the tranny support. This way I can lift in the middle of the car and it goes up evenly. I lift to desired height and put jack stands under the rear jacking points. Then I lift the front where Merlin suggests. With the rear already on stands (and not the suspension) it allows the front to come up even too. Place 2 jack stands under the front jack points.. 2 lifts, all 4 wheels up

[harborman]

Stan, many thanks!
Worked like a champ. I first put my old Sears hydrolic floor jack as you said, under the front tow hook plate which supports one end of the front suspension, lifted that end to the height I needed, placed a jack stand under the factory jack point. Then moved the Sears to the passenger side and did the same. My old Sears is a 2-1/2 ton and has great control.

I found that my passenger side valve cover is leaking along the bottom, not bad but I can see some oil along the edge. I have some oil spots on the floor and smell oil sometimes. I am also going to clean up the main ground wire to the engine from frame and maybe starter connections.

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

Riber jacking on the square member under the floor is the weak spot .
.
I suggest to jack from the front tow hook plate on the front of either lower control arm,
once the car is lifted then place a stand under the front jack point next to the rocker panel then you can jack up the front cross member with a block of wood on the jack. And place the other jack stand on the other side.
Only Caveat is to make sure the jack plate is capturing the front tow plate dont use wood The plate can slip off if its not centered on the jacking pad

For the rear jacking the rear cross member is OK if you use a piece of wood so the jack wont damage the aluminum

[riber.bentsen]

I know it's a weak spot - and there is evidence of just that from the PO's messing about. Hence the 2x4 which supports and lets the jack pad sink in a bit. Great distribution of weight over a large area..

I use wood that is quite moist, if it's dry there is greater risk of slippage and/or it might split.

[Mrmerlin]

Note if you jack one of the front wheels off the ground then let the car down,
it will sit about 2 inches higher,
then you may be able to slide the jack under to the front crossmember with a block of wood.

[harborman]

I just did what Mrmerlin posted, did not use any wood, just placed my floor jack centered under that tow area, raised the one side did the same on the other. I only raised the front however. I have used a small 2x4 in the rear under that center cross member to protect the aluminum, when I had it raised up. His method works just fine and quick.

Originally Posted by riber.bentsen

I know it's a weak spot - and there is evidence of just that from the PO's messing about. Hence the 2x4 which supports and lets the jack pad sink in a bit. Great distribution of weight over a large area..

I use wood that is quite moist, if it's dry there is greater risk of slippage and/or it might split.