Alternate Kick Down Relay?
 

Is there an Alternate Solution or do we have to use the exact one? Just wondering as the Relay is $60 :eek:

For auto trans?

Yup, Automatic Tranny

Used one ok? I let the fuse panel from my auto go to a local guy with. 5 speed. Bet you two could work it out. If you're interested in a working used one let me know and ill have him chime in.

For sure. He can post or PM me. I'm kinda here a lot ;)

Didn't hear anything from vdubr's buddy so ordered me the Kick Down Relay and a couple ones that use the same as the Horn Relay.

Hopefully this $60 Relay fixes my Kick Down In-Op. My Euro doesn't have a Kick Down Relay but must be hard wired.

I had a few bad relays in my "S" CE panel so I bet this will work. Will keep you all posted.

Yikes! Just notified by Pelican that the Kick Down Relay # 92861810900 is NLA. Still looking for one then :(

I was wondering if the Switch under the Accelerator Pedal is a grounding switch. I'm not very good at reading schematics, so does anyone know the answer to this question?

The reason I ask is once I get my Kick Down working, I want to install a KD Bypass switch that is lighted. They are 3 prong so I assume I need one of the prongs to be ground.

Leo, the kick down switch provides 12v from the '15' rail to the relay pin 30, so it is not a grounding switch.
Wire your light between K1 and ground, and it will be on when KD switch is active.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1303324951.jpg

Thanks Neil! Exactly what I needed. Looks like a non-lighted rocker switch is what I need.

If it's relay XV at least on my 86, it appears to be a solid state relay. A see one terminal goes to ground, so possibly the switch is putting voltage on it. Be careful what you hook up to it.

Yup, theres a little circuit board in there. I opened it up to see if there was any obvious signs of it being bad. Nothing noticeable. I already bought a good used one from the 9 source about an hour ago. He said it's tested so if this doesn't solve it, then it's gonna be the part on the tranny.

You can do either, if you want the switch lite all the time, connect to the light + to the circuit 15 side, if you want it to light only when kd bypass switch is hit, connect the light + side to K1.

Interesting. Will give that a go, which I can do on my Euro now since the KD works. Except I can't test it legally since I need to Smog it (reg fees already paid).

Does the k1 wire have a different color that you can tell?

Looks like the K1 wire is gr/br - the other wire on the kd switch under the gas pedal is black, which is the '15' wire, should should be easy to find!

There is usually no way of telling if a solid state devise is bad without testing it, other than you know it's malfunctioning. Sometimes even testing it without a high empedence meter can actually damage the device. Normally, they short out, but other components associated with it's operation can cause the failure. Solid state devices are prone to destruction by voltage spikes. Anyway, my point is if you put a cheap meter on it, it may cause a failure of the device. Note the schematic diagram of the relay, it has a symbol of a transistor in it, so you will know it's not a mechanical relay.

I was able to fix an old CRT Monitor and an old HD 30 Flat Panel TV a few years back by looking at an obvious burned Cap/Transistor or a broken circuit, then by using a diagram (schematic?), figure out the proper Cap, Resistor that belonged there. Using my handy dandy soldering iron, flux, paste and a magnifying glass, I was in business. It's been a few years but I think it had to do with the bands and colors. Anyways, that's what i was looking for. If I had to resort to any testing, it made it's way to the dumpster.

Yes, I have done they same thing at times. You can look up the resistor color coding or get a sheet on it. (black, brown, red, orange, yellow, green, blue, violet, gray, white). If I remember Black = 0, brown = 1, etc. Now a lot of electronics uses surface mount technology much harder to replace components without proper equipment. Always use solder made for electronics, usually has the flux inside it. Also, when replacing resistors make sure the wattage rating is the same or higher and on caps, the voltage rating and sometimes polarity.

Leo, shot me a high res picture of both sides of the pc and i'll tell you how to check it out.
Neil

Thanks for the offer Neil but the day I bought a good used one, I sent mine to a place that said they can repair it. Bad timing as I sent it in the morning and then was offered a good used one for a great price right after that, so I bought it.

NP, I got my electrical and mechanical degrees at the expense of a major manufacturer -Alfa Romeo, so anytime you particularly need electrical debugging ping me - I have an aversion for paying someone else to rebuild or "fix" a part for me, and probably have a 98% success rate.

I will get you a cross reference number tomorrow when I am at work. If it is the same relay that works for the heater fan it is only 5 bucks.

The horn and heater relay number is made by Meyle part number 8D0951253A. The kickdown I can't get a number for

Kickdown is 92861810900 or 92861810901

I didn't get alot of time at work as it was busy this morning. Monday should be a slower day and I will try then.

So much for the Good Used Relay option. I even hooked up a remote switch to eliminate the floor switch as an issue. Looks like I need to replace whatever part is at the tranny. Anyone got a name and part number of that thingy bopper?

Part Number for the 1983 4 Speed Auto Kickdown Solenoid needed.

Is #14 in this Diagram the Kickdown Solenoid?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1303611635.jpg

Have you tried Mercedes, since it's their trans.

MP, that piece should be available new and used from 928 Intl.

I have a spare, if you have to have it.

Sent PM

Landseer,

Got the part today. Thanks a bunch! I was wondering if it was hard to take out and put back? I see a seal, is it low on the transaxle to dump fluid in my face? Also, where does the electrical piece come into play here?

It is located down very low. Raise rear of car, approach it from behind.

The harness has a single electrode that just pulls out with the wire. Should mate-up to the new one.

I don't think it will gush fluid --- can't gush much, can it, with that small O-ring?

IIRC its just pull the harness terminal off; unscrew the bolt; remove.

Its got to be possible in-situ, without moving trans backward or dropping X-member. I think I removed it when the box was out, though.

Some shots for relative postion ID.

Looks like it mounts on the passenger side, rear.
Single bolt attachment. Harness is single electrode / just pull boot and wire and it will come out.

This is an 84 trans, upside down. Same as your 83.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304039364.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304039389.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304039400.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304039411.jpg

Here are some pics and vid of installing the Kickdown Solenoid. Got a great Used one from Landseer

The removal is to use a 3/4 closed end wrench. I was able to remove the old one from the bottom after the bolt fell out. I installed the one (white writing) from Landseer from the top, then put the crush washer once it was in the area. It's an almost blind reinstall, but if you can get a flashlight from the top, you can kinda see the threaded hole.

You can do your test with a remote switch to the kick down switch under the accel pedal, ignition in the on but don't start and put the car in drive with car OFF. I actually still had it like that when I was still trying to test the solenoid out the tranny but grounded and got nothing. Once I mounted it and started to tighten the bolt, I can hear it click.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304047279.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304047285.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304047291.jpg

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304047301.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1304047308.jpg

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Got my Relay back from that Relay Fixer guy whom emailed me back "after" he received the KD Relay and said he wasn't equiped to repair Relays with Circuit Boards in them. I'm like WTF? I gave you the part number and he said he could fix it. Anyways, paid to ship it back where he actually tried to charge me an inspection fee. I told him theres no way i am going to pay you a fee to remove a plastic cover.

Anyways, put my old one back and walla, my KD still works. That problem was never the Relay but was a faulty Kick Down Solenoid. Oh well, now I got a spare KD Relay for a rainy day.