Engine oil question

[Yoni_d]

Hi Guys

A year ago due to the previous car owner recommendation ,I used lique moli 5W40.
I looked in the car manual and I saw that it is recommended to use 10W40 oil...The lique moli 10W40 price is half then the 5W40...

I live in Israel which can be hot in the summer up to 35C (I thought this fact is important)...do you think that I can replace my current engine oil (5W40) with the lique moli 10W40?

Thanks for your help!

[Yoni_d]

Forgot to mention that defines as a "synthetic technology all season"

Products - Super Leichtlauf 10 W-40

[Pete R]

The 5 and the 10 are only flow characteristics when cold. The 5 will flow a bit better when cold. It doesn't appear that you have winter conditions ie 0. You'll be okay with either.

[Landseer]

You'd want to confirm that whatever you utlize has a ZDDP content of >1200ppm.

In USA, environmental protection agency has pushed lowering this level in most motor oils. Its a material that essentially "plates out" on wear surfaces. Specifically, onto camshafts where they contact lifters. Without this material being replenished, the engines wear can intensify.

[Pete R]

Only the "race" oils here have any amount of it. It does something to cats. The race oils generally lack the detergents and acid neutralizers for a normal drain interval. Lindsey Racing sells ZDDP in little bottles. I add it on my own.

[Landseer]

I didn't really take it seriously at first.

[Yoni_d]

Thanks for the information! I will use the 10W40

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by Landseer

I didn't really take it seriously at first.

Me either, but for 12 bucks (2 cans) it's not gonna kill me

[dcrasta]

I would suggest 15W40 or 20w50 for your car based. Did you experience any ticking or oil pressure loss at idle (u should see minimum 2 bars of pressure at idle fully hot).

Also check the Zddp levels (As previously mentioned).

I use golden spectro 20/w-5o in my car (its a synthetic) but I have also used Castrol GTX 20/50 and Shell Rotella 15w50 (low ash) .

I personally would not use anything less than 15W oils in these cars. However your 16V car may be less demanding (valvetrain wise) than the 32v cars.

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by dcrasta

I personally would not use anything less than 15W oils in these cars. However your 16V car may be less demanding (valvetrain wise) than the 32v cars.

The first number with the W after it is the flow characteristic at 0 degrees. The higher that number is, the more damage you will do at start up due to less oil flow. A 0w-40 like M1 would be the best case senario.

[MPDano]

Enough Said

[Maleficio]

Originally Posted by MPDano

Enough Said

That's good stuff.

[MPDano]

Also taken from RP Website:

Do your motor oils contain zinc and phosphorous?

Yes. All Royal Purple engine oils contain the zinc/phosphorous compound zinc dialkyl dithiophosphate (ZDDP). Royal Purple HPS and XPR lines of engine oils are formulated with a higher concentration of these elements and are suitable for both roller and flat tappet valve trains.

[928s]

Those oils are to thin, there is no real advantage to using thin oils, us a 15w50 or a 20w50 and be happy that your engine will last. Obviously check the ZDDP but most oils that weight will be OK but check none the less.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by 928s

Those oils are to thin, there is no real advantage to using thin oils, us a 15w50 or a 20w50 and be happy that your engine will last. Obviously check the ZDDP but most oils that weight will be OK but check none the less.

Wow, many opinions on the oil. I use 20w50 in my Harley but in the 928?? I started using 15w40 Rotilla T. Just bought some for $10/4 quarts. Does not climate have a function in this? Many of you are out West in high temps, but here in Midwest I don't think I want 20w50 in my car.

[Landseer]

Am using only 15W 50 Mobil 1 now in 5 cars year-round.
Has a known ZDDP level. Works fine.

Had trouble confirming level in Shell Rotella, so am using it in lawnmowers and for chain oil.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Landseer

Am using only 15W 50 Mobil 1 now in 5 cars year-round.
Has a known ZDDP level. Works fine.

Had trouble confirming level in Shell Rotella, so am using it in lawnmowers and for chain oil.

Just another thing. I wonder if a lot of this oil thing is all hype. I have never destroyed a motor with oil. Sure, dirty oil, wrong weight for outside temp,etc. Some people never change the oil and that destroys motors. I think you are safe in going by the manual. I say, use decent oil and do frequent oil and filter changes. This is not rocket science. Desert driving is different from Northern Minn. in January. I don't think you would start your car with 20w50 at 40 below zero, not wind chill! I am just going by my years of driving all sorts of vehicles. There is a whole write up on this on Rennlist, more info then you ever want to know unless you are a chemist in the oil lab at BP or something .

[Landseer]

The ZDDP thing has gotten my attention during the reading of all that stuff.
Its a realization the flat tappet Jeep guys have also connected with now.

The book is good. But the manufacturers have shifted some of the chemistry so that the book, written today, would likely need to be edited.


I read a presentation done by an NJ inspection expert. He was strategically successful in maintaining a strong state emisions inspection program for earlier cars, ie, no 20 or 25 year old exemption. The "out" given to owners is a cheap antique plate with very heavy driving restrictions. This is repeating in other states. Charts were shown showing how much emissions they could reduce by pseudo-legislating the older cars like ours off the road. (pre OBD-II cars).

Very clever.

I see ZDDP changes as another clever way to reduce the number of cars on the road via camshaft / lifter wear. Its serious wear, BTW, that takes cars out.

Same with the buyback incentives. Get them off the road.

Next, who knows --- maybe opinion towards green will shift to allow accomodation of severe registration $$ penalties to drive the pre OBD II early stuff like ours. The effectiveness of a challenge reduces everyday as fewer are driven. EPA actually has vast power right now to require compliance with whatever emissions program they want at a federal level.

We can still get the additive in certain specialty oils... for now.

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by MPDano

Enough Said

I'm in SoCal, so you know weather wise. Also, about 500ft above Sea Level and I drive to Sea Level for work. If this helps in your Oil use decision.

[harborman]

Fortunately here where I am we have no emissions testing, not sure in other parts of the state. I know California is rough on this and I remember my eyes burning as a kid in L.A. One problem out there is the mountains holding the air in and so so many cars. I think Denver has the same problem. I thought the synthetics caused oil leaks in our 928's. Think I read it some place.

Ok on EPA, just too many laws on us. How many 928's are on the road these days? A fraction of a fraction compared to all cars. Really sad some have to go through so much for so little pollution added to the environment with our few specialty cars. Anyone with any kind of education can see the hand writing on the wall on what is in store for us. Hope we can still drive our nice cars 10 years from now!