Sticking throttle

Wrentham636 · 06-30-2011, 11:57 AM

Need a little help with this issue. I have the cause traced to the throttle body. I've read plenty of threads about sticking of the butterfly and that seems to be my issue as well. What I need is a process for getting visibility of the TB so that I can hopefully clean it or determine that refresh is necessary. I have had the manifold distributor boxes off several times but have not dug into it beyond that point. Searched for existing threads but have come up empty.

MPDano · MPDano's Garage

A Full Intake job looks fun on those engines. I see some awesome Powdercoating in your near future.

Normy · 06-30-2011, 03:04 PM

My throttle sticks too! Annoying. I have to lift the gas pedal with my foot to get the engine to idle around 800 rpm at times. That's probably why I get 11 mpg....

N

Wrentham636 · 07-01-2011, 05:48 AM

heh, yeah I see mouse/chipmunk/rodent cleaning in my future.

Took her out for her maiden voyage last night (no sticker yet) made it all of 1/4 mile before turning around. Had never noticed this before with it sitting still but I think I have a problem around the CE. Every time I hit a bump the engine tried to cut out. I'm thinking short of course but then I noticed if I pushed on one of the relays towards the mid point of the CE, I could hear one of the relays clicking off/on at same time.

Enjoy the long weekend everybody!

Wrentham636 · 07-01-2011, 05:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MPDano

A Full Intake job looks fun on those engines. I see some awesome Powdercoating in your near future.

I'm looking forward to cleaning out the engine bay proper. I'd just like to get a few (hundred) dirty miles in before doing so.

What are my options for plugging holes as I take apart the intake? Rags are easy first choice. Did i see someone used packing foam? and I think bluemane500 used some type of foil.

MPDano · MPDano's Garage

The only parts you need to be concerned is the Spark Plug Holes and Throttle Body Hole. Spark Plug hose, I just used some paper towel pieces as long as it's flared enough so it doesn't drop in. I used a big enough rag to stuff in the Throttle Body hole. The rest your removing and cleaning out of the car. All rubber (couplers, vacuum lines, etc) get replaced.

I just used some Simple Green a small wire brush to clean, use a small scraper to remove the caked on stuff. Just take your time and label small bits and pieces so you know where they go back.

MPDano · MPDano's Garage

Never tried the WD40 cleaning. Gotta give that a try next time around.

Wrentham636 · 07-01-2011, 07:18 AM

Thanks for the tips. Looks like i'll be land-sailing this one for a bit. That's ok, as we all know these things look like they're going fast just sitting still. I used to tool on my old 62 Nova. Didn't know how much I missed it until I got my 928. Wouldn't change it for anything, unless you think your Veyron is a dog and want to get rid of it...

harborman · harborman's Garage

I was using WD40 a long time but now I find PB Blaster is a bit better, at least it seems that way. Does not smell as bad either.

Pete R · Pete R's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by harborman

I was using WD40 a long time but now I find PB Blaster is a bit better, at least it seems that way. Does not smell as bad either.

I love the smell of WD40, it's the only reason I use it

harborman · harborman's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pete R

I love the smell of WD40, it's the only reason I use it

Well don't smell too much of it or you may become an addict! Isn't it some kind of fish based oil? The PB does work better!

Wrentham636 · 07-04-2011, 08:00 AM

While i'm waiting for my set of cd's (Thanks Roger) to arrive I started work on removing fuel rails. On drivers side I'm dismantled to the point where fuel connection at front and rear as well as mounting bolts have been removed so that now injector themselves are holding rail in place. I removed clips holding each injector to the rail. Not sure now whether age is holding everything together and preventing remove of the rail. I don't want to force anything and cost me a set of injectors. Any tips on removing at this point. 32v engine of course. Thanks

bluemane500 · bluemane500's Garage

okay,, put the clips back on the injectors and just lift out the rails with injectors attached to rails,, they are only held in by rubber o rings on the bottom of the injector,,,pick up from one end,, nothing will break,, and why did you buy a set of cd,s they are free online

bluemane500 · bluemane500's Garage

be careful ,, when taking off intakes you dont drop in any dirt into the heads,you should try to clean as good as you can after you remove fuel rails before taking off intakes,, there is a lot of shizzle under there,, also block up injector holes before cleaning,,i knew you were dying to take off those intakes,,,lol

bluemane500 · bluemane500's Garage

dcrasta · dcrasta's Garage

One thing to check on the 85/86:

The throttle rod engages the pivot on the front. Your radiator pipe on the front also has a clamp. Make sure the orientation of the clamp does not interfere with the movement of the pivot. That was my problem after doing a TB/WP job, I had to rotate the radiator hose clamp slightly to provide the correct amount of room. My throttle actuator rod was actually hitting the clamp at certain positions and causing the throttle not to be able to fully return closed.

Wrentham636 · 07-06-2011, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluemane500

okay,, put the clips back on the injectors and just lift out the rails with injectors attached to rails,, they are only held in by rubber o rings on the bottom of the injector,,,pick up from one end,, nothing will break,, and why did you buy a set of cd,s they are free online

Lift from one end no problem. I just did not know how brittle the injector body might be. Anyone want to buy a set of WSM cd's??? Only $70!!

bluemane500 · bluemane500's Garage

wow bob 70 beans,, i paid 28 beans on ebay but i only have everything on one cd,,,dont know about the special documentation, my cd seams pretty complete,, if you asked i would have burnt you a copy, hey and if you encounter any issues with your injectors i have a bag of them, i only replaced the bottom o rings, check ebay for most stuff,intake gaskets are very expensive if you buy the factory ones if you can find them,, i used the paper ones and they worked fine,,, i even have an extra throttle body and most everything else,, i had rags stuffed in my holes at first but the foil tape makes more sense,,, nothing can get past and nothing can get in,,, good luck if you want to do some painting hit me up peace

Wrentham636 · 07-06-2011, 06:35 PM

The CDs I got were off Rogers site. I thought these had "not mentioned in wsm" type stuff. I heard about cheap copies on eBay but wanted to give the author his money. Got the rails off tonight easily. Found it much easier taking clips off first. Vacuumed a ton more acorns "little bastards!". I'll take a crack at solving throttle stick with slightly improved access I have now. Would love to fix without removing manifold. I will definitely email you about painting if I do remove.

Wrentham636 · 08-20-2011, 01:55 PM

Put my engine back together today. Paper gasket for the intake and seal kit for the injectors. I took a tip i found online and used a little grease to ease the process of getting injectors to slide into fuel rail and intake MUCH easier. I destroyed the o rings the first time I tried installing injectors in the rail. Now everything is back together and she starts right up. I'm getting smoke out the tail pipe which i think may be just the process of burning out any grease that found its way into the engine. Also running rough now. No sticking throttle anymore but at idle its surging. Almost stalls and then catches. I tested all injectors with the 9v battery trick and they all passed. I will upload a video a little later today if possible.