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Torque Tube Rebuild Begins

Ok, started my TT Rebuild today. I am following a Dwayne write up with subtle changes in my procedures. I bought a 6 foot piece of threaded 5/8" Rod. Went to Home Depot and got the nuts, washers. Cut up a small piece of 2x4 and used a small can to mark my circle and used a Jig Saw to make the cut. I put some bearing grease on the rod as well as the edges of the wood just in case it decided to rub the TT sides.

The 2-1/8" measurement was how far the Shaft end was to the Tube end.

Day 1




















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Last edited by MPDano; 01-22-2012 at 05:31 PM..
Old 01-22-2012, 05:18 PM
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Last edited by MPDano; 01-22-2012 at 05:32 PM..
Old 01-22-2012, 05:19 PM
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A few more.













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Old 01-22-2012, 05:20 PM
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Contrary to information I got from one of the Vendors. There are only "2" Bearings in an Automatic Trans Torque Tube.

I also bought a handy dandy 12 Ton Shop Press from Harbor Freight today and also bought a small wheeled dolly. I bolted the Shop Press to it so I can move the Press around. This is a Tool you NEED to remove and install bearings correctly. Even pressing the Torque Converter Shaft was a bear when it finally broke free.



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Old 01-22-2012, 05:25 PM
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Torque Converter Bearings were giving me trouble since I don't own any good Snap Ring Pliers. I got out at least one of the bearings so I can match them up at Kaman Bearing tomorrow. I'll get a better tool for the Snap Ring as well. Also, the TC had to be pried off since it was stuck with corrosion and rust. Just a few prys on each side and she broke free.









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Old 01-22-2012, 05:29 PM
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Does that TT need some kind of fancy clamp or does it use the clip to keep the pinch thing from migrating?
Old 01-22-2012, 06:28 PM
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Very cool, Leo!

I especially like how you mounted the press on the moving dolly. I'm going to do the same thing :-)
Old 01-22-2012, 06:56 PM
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sand down the TC and spray it with some rust inhibitor paint,
mask off the cone that fits into the flex plate use antiseize grease on the snout when refitting ,
Mask the mounting pads and the input to the trans front pump .

for the vibe damper drill 2 small holes in the TT to fit a pop rivet and put one pop on either side of the damper,
this way it wont slide around down the road .
if the rubbers are loose get some glue and reglue them to the damper,
make sure the rivets are long enough to catch the damper.
OR use sheet metal screws with bolt type heads to screw into the TT after the damper is fitted

Nice work and photos
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Last edited by Mrmerlin; 01-22-2012 at 07:07 PM..
Old 01-22-2012, 07:05 PM
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Thanks for posting the pics. I wasn't clear how this extraction process worked, now it's clear.

I probably need to do this job on my 86.5 but the only symptom I have is the damper sliding forward and back and making a clunk when I accelerate and brake. (at least that's my guess as to what's going on)

I thought the damper was in the middle, between the bearings, but your pics show it on one end with both bearings on one side of it?
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dcarter View Post
Thanks for posting the pics. I wasn't clear how this extraction process worked, now it's clear.

I probably need to do this job on my 86.5 but the only symptom I have is the damper sliding forward and back and making a clunk when I accelerate and brake. (at least that's my guess as to what's going on)

I thought the damper was in the middle, between the bearings, but your pics show it on one end with both bearings on one side of it?
No bearings on the damper. It does look like it, but it doesn't. I will take a pic when I get home.
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Old 01-23-2012, 05:53 AM
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Right, understand there's no bearings on the damper, just thought the damper was in the middle, but looking back at Dwayne's pics, I was confused...
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Old 01-23-2012, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MPDano View Post
Contrary to information I got from one of the Vendors. There are only "2" Bearings in an Automatic Trans Torque Tube.
I also bought a handy dandy 12 Ton Shop Press from Harbor Freight today and also bought a small wheeled dolly. I bolted the Shop Press to it so I can move the Press around. This is a Tool you NEED to remove and install bearings correctly. Even pressing the Torque Converter Shaft was a bear when it finally broke free.



I don't know if that statement was from us, but we have always found three bearing units in automatic TTs with the 25mm drive shaft. We also find three bearing units in all 5-speed TTs.

The auto TTs with the 28mm drive shafts only had two bearing units as you have found in your TT. However yours is a 25mm drive shaft.

The only time we haven't is when we take apart a previously rebuilt TT.

Yours does look like it has the original bearings in the bearing units which suggests that this hasn't been rebuilt, but I can't tell for sure.

But then again nothing should surprise us anymore, Porsche did change their build specs on the fly.

Have fun with the rebuild.

Cheers,
Constantine
Old 01-24-2012, 02:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin View Post
sand down the TC and spray it with some rust inhibitor paint,
mask off the cone that fits into the flex plate use antiseize grease on the snout when refitting ,
Mask the mounting pads and the input to the trans front pump .

for the vibe damper drill 2 small holes in the TT to fit a pop rivet and put one pop on either side of the damper,
this way it wont slide around down the road .
if the rubbers are loose get some glue and reglue them to the damper,
make sure the rivets are long enough to catch the damper.
OR use sheet metal screws with bolt type heads to screw into the TT after the damper is fitted
Nice work and photos
Just a caution about the vibe dampener. Their rubber holders will come apart sooner or later. This can have the heavy metal part kissing the drive shaft, wearing on the TT body and also start moving up and down the TT. Pinning the vibe dampener really won't help the rubber holders from coming apart.

Here is one we found during a recent TT rebuild. You can see where the drive shaft was being rubbed by the vibe dampener bits hanging on the drive shaft. Thankfully it was caught in time and the drive shaft did not seem to be too damaged.



HTH,
Constantine
Old 01-24-2012, 02:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Constantine View Post
I don't know if that statement was from us, but we have always found three bearing units in automatic TTs with the 25mm drive shaft. We also find three bearing units in all 5-speed TTs.

The auto TTs with the 28mm drive shafts only had two bearing units as you have found in your TT. However yours is a 25mm drive shaft.

The only time we haven't is when we take apart a previously rebuilt TT.

Yours does look like it has the original bearings in the bearing units which suggests that this hasn't been rebuilt, but I can't tell for sure.

But then again nothing should surprise us anymore, Porsche did change their build specs on the fly.

Have fun with the rebuild.

Cheers,
Constantine
Hi Constantine, the info wasn't from you. This TT is from a Euro 4 Speed, but not sure if that makes a difference. Were the SKF Bearings in the TT stock, because that is what was in there.
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Old 01-24-2012, 04:09 AM
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Went to the local Kaman Bearing in San Diego after work yesterday. Had them match both the TT and TC Bearings. I paid a little bit more than I could have online, but I bought local and feel good about that. Plus my TT Bearings are NSK and Made in the USA. TC are SKF and am good with that as well.

I kept the Shielded for the TT and Sealed for the TC since that is what was there before and made sense to keep that part the same.



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Old 01-24-2012, 04:43 AM
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The TT bearings we've found have been from SKF as well as FAG.

Biggest clue is if they have a C5 rating. If they are anything less than a C5 clearanced bearing, they are not original.

Most rebuilders use a C3 as replacement bearings since the C5 can't be found. If you do find any they are expensive as well as probably old stock with the old school grease dried up in them.
Old 01-24-2012, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Constantine View Post
The TT bearings we've found have been from SKF as well as FAG.

Biggest clue is if they have a C5 rating. If they are anything less than a C5 clearanced bearing, they are not original.

Most rebuilders use a C3 as replacement bearings since the C5 can't be found. If you do find any they are expensive as well as probably old stock with the old school grease dried up in them.
I had to Google all that clearance stuff. Interesting as the play is more the higher the number. I guess I should ask what rating that TT bearing I got. Or it might just come up id I Google the part number. Oh the Nsk bearing has a c3 in the part number. Maybe??
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Last edited by MPDano; 01-24-2012 at 03:21 PM..
Old 01-24-2012, 03:19 PM
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From your pictures you have a C3 rated NSK bearing.

They are the last two digits on the box.

The 6006 is the bearing size and the ZZ means they are double steel shielded.
Old 01-24-2012, 04:15 PM
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Today, I pressed the new SKF Bearings in the TC Cover. Also pressed the Shaft back in as well. I had a little trouble pressing in the bearings straight, so I used my rubber mallet to get them started, then finished it off with the press using the 2" Socket. Don't forget the spacer in-between the bearings before you press in the second one. FYI, I used a little bit of anti sieze on the bearing surface, not sure if it matters but I did it anyways.

I also followed the Dwayne writeup and bought a 6" piece of 1-1/2" threaded pipe. I also bought a cap and grinded the top a little so the press wouldn't slip on it. Just press until it gives some resistance and then check to see if it sits right where teh circlip will fit.

Ah, the feel of brand new bearings is soooooo smooth.

















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Last edited by MPDano; 01-29-2012 at 02:19 PM..
Old 01-29-2012, 02:16 PM
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Old 01-29-2012, 02:18 PM
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