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Doing motor mounts today - Any tips?
Got 2 of the volvo mounts from Roger this week. Brother in law is coming over to help in a couple of hours.
I just got the car aligned about a month ago when I put the steering rack w/tie rods in. Will I need to again? Anybody got any last minute tips? Happy Memorial Day! -Dan
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Are you going to do the oil pan gasket at the same time? It is a good idea since all the work is the same.
No need to remove the rack, just pull the hoses and let it hang out of the way. Get the motor up as high as you can before you start tearing into the crossmember. It makes it much easier to get the new mounts back in. An alignment shouldn't be necessary if you just remove the lower control arms at the body leaving the adjusters intact. |
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I know now I should, but I didn't get the pan gasket.
Kind of reminds me of when I did the steering rack reading "Now would be a perfect time to do the motor mounts".
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#1 Take the front tow hooks completely off. I usually just undo one of the front mounting bolts and when I remove the suspension bolts, they just dangle there. I have lots of scars on my head from contact with the dangling tow hooks.
#2 Don't forget that your old mounts were collapsed. It will be much easier to install the new motor mounts if you raise the engine as high as possible after you remove the old MM's #3 Have the car on a lift if you can
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John Curry (Drift King) 928OC member Grand Prix White 1994 GTS AT (The GTS) Black 1989 GT (The GT) and Cobalt Blue 1989 S4 AT (The Blue Car) 1986 Euro AT Indishrot 1984 Euro S AT (The Stepson) and Black Metallic 1984 Euro S 5 speed (The Schwartz) |
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Dan,
Take some pics of your process and post.
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I would Leo, but my camera sucks.. or maybe I just suck at taking pictures.
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btw.. We were trying to take off the crossmember and I must be missing something.
Took off the upper bolt on both side, the 2 around the control arm and the bolt at the end of the cross member. It still wouldn't budge. John above said I have to completely remove the toe hooks..Is this going to screw up the alignment? I was trying to avoid if possible because I just had it done like a month ago.
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Quote:
Did you remove the horizontal bolt on each side?
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John Curry (Drift King) 928OC member Grand Prix White 1994 GTS AT (The GTS) Black 1989 GT (The GT) and Cobalt Blue 1989 S4 AT (The Blue Car) 1986 Euro AT Indishrot 1984 Euro S AT (The Stepson) and Black Metallic 1984 Euro S 5 speed (The Schwartz) |
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Petie3rd
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there are 2 long bolts that attach the cross member to the side brackets remove the alternator first.
these bolts are above the crossmember, it would be very smart to swap out the OPG Also do the curved hose that goes to the rear of the power steering pump to reservoir . Roger sells the parts and you can get them quickly, do it now while the cross member is down You will need a fresh alignment after you drive the car for 50 miles , no way around it The front tow hooks can be left in place, here is the trick, remove the rear bolt, Then loosen the front bolt nut half a turn, then pull the hook down it will be in somewhat of a bind, once you have the control arms out then push the hook back up it will stay there
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Yes, I did take the horizontal one off.
4 bolts on each side. 2 on either side of the arm, 1 in the middle of crossmember end and the horizontal one. Crossmember still didn't want to come out. Might just need a whack but I thought I'd throw it out there.
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Petie3rd
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after the control arms are out there are 2 bolts under the rear sections of the control arm mounts that need to be removed then the cross member will drop,
also remove the motor mounts bolts from the engine the mounts come out with the cross member
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I decided to do the Oil pan gasket. I'll contact Roger tomorrow.
MrMerlin ( sorry I don't know your real name ), A long time ago I replaced the "S" shaped hose from the PS Pump to the res, but there is a hose from the Res to the rack, and one from the pump to the rack. The one that goes from the Res to the rack is looking kind of ratty and I'm wondering if I can do that hose the same way as when I did the fuel lines. Also.... any caveats when doing the oil pan gasket or is it pretty much cut and dry. Also.. I found the motor mount bolts that go into the engine.. kind of. ![]()
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Kool
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watching your work here Danny....good luck with completion..the pics a great so far...
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Quote:
Before you put the studs in, clean all the holes with brake cleaner to de-grease them. Use red threadblocker for the stud end going into the block. Roger uses nylock nuts for the studs so you wont need anything on the other end.
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Like every project with this car, several setbacks but now I'm finally putting it back together.
The OPG is on and tightened, the new motor mounts are in teh crossmember and I'm placing the crossmember back in the car. I'm struggling with getting crossmember back on. Because of the broken boss where the mount connects to on the drivers side, I didn't screw around and torqued the motor mount in, and it appears to be Ok and should hold. ![]() ![]() After finally getting the crossmember under the control arm it's almost in place, but just out of alignment to the bolt holes and I have almost no room for play. Any tips out there to get this bad boy in?
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FINALLY, finished the motor mounts today. I got the Volvo mounts from 928sRus.
It took em a few days of trying things and I wasn't able to get the crossmember in... until I found this one. The New 928 motor mounts with pictures - Rennlist Discussion Forums Thanks to all who provided their 2 cents..
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Kool
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so, the solution was one mount on the motor, and one on the cross member?
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That's correct. Just took her for a spin. Needs an alignment I'm sure but feels good.
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Kool
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Sweet! Congrats!
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Ron 1978 5sp (#30) project-Wreckscue, 1979 5sp Euro Project 1982 5sp resto project, 1985 Auto S3 1984 Parts car (the fire car) 1987 s4 (parts, or maybe project) (Yes, I now have 4 project Sharks) |
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Kool
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What did you do about the broken boss? JB weld?
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