Timing Belt replacement, my first..

[Fixer]

Doing camshaft drive belt in morning, my car is on it's second belt
(65k miles, done at 30K, it's due).
Sick of thinking about it, i have checked it/tension'd it and it looks fine but it should be done.
Looking forward to it

[harborman]

Sounds like you can still get some mileage on the existing belt unless it has been in there more than 5 or 6 years or looks warn in places. But if you are doing it for the first time, take your time and do it right.

[DougM]

Also, if your belt breaks, the motor stops, nothing more. No damage except the need for a new belt.
When doing it, I would do everything else that can be reached while in there. New WP, seals for crank, oil pump and cams, rebuild tensioner. All of those are easily accessible when replacing the belt.

[Fixer]

Thanks Guys, i did inspect the belt this morning and put a lot of stuff in the part washing bucket to soak. I rotated the crack clockwise and stop at TDC checking the TB tension, it was fine (little tight) and the belt looked fine as you say above. I checked the tensioning rollers, they were good as well. I got to thinking about the Porkensioner, I don't know too much about and thought i should button up and ask if this is something i should invest in first. I did buy the Gates racing TB and was curious if the racing TB uses the same tensioner tool? Wouldn't it flex differently? anyway i want a little advise on best upgrades while in there.
Thanks

[AirtekHVAC]

Matt, that belt looks pretty good....

I am also thinking about the porkensioner....why not, right?

I'm a ways from doing the TB, but never hurts to look ahead....changing the WP too?

[Danglerb]

I don't recall specific mention about it, but the racing belt IMHO is not a good non racing choice, it has no compliance, and the kempf tool as well as the factory tool look at force required to move the belt a certain distance, reaction to stretching. Porken's tensioner might be the safer option with the racing belt.

[Fixer]

Originally Posted by AirtekHVAC

Matt, that belt looks pretty good....

I am also thinking about the porkensioner....why not, right?

I'm a ways from doing the TB, but never hurts to look ahead....changing the WP too?

It looks good but I didn't tell you it was done about 9 years ago at 30K miles. That's my worry, i don't want to get stuck and i still wonder if damage could occur.

I am definitely doing WP and tensioner rollers.

[Fixer]

Originally Posted by Danglerb

I don't recall specific mention about it, but the racing belt IMHO is not a good non racing choice, it has no compliance, and the kempf tool as well as the factory tool look at force required to move the belt a certain distance, reaction to stretching. Porken's tensioner might be the safer option with the racing belt.

Good to know Danglerb, will buy the Porken's tensioner. mmmmm Porken's

[harborman]

Your belt looks pretty good! As for racing belt, I tend to stay away from racing parts for street use. I just put on the regular Gates belt on mine. I did not change the tensioner, but did put new oil in it. At the time my car only had 37K miles on it. I did put on a new water pump. I now have 59K miles. I don't drive it much in winter.

[Fixer]

Thanks Harborman, i have the Gates racing belt. The only difference i can see is it contains heavier duty belt reinforcement.
I think i should try it.

I really need to know i am tension-ing it correctly, i checked the tension as per the Porsche WSM, and by my tension tool my belt was too tight. I did not change the tension since it has been fine for all this time.

When checking the tension; the tool indicator would go well beyond the notch on the tool when the tool stops against the motor in the correct belt location near cyl#5.

The belt did not seem too tight to me at all.

do you Guys use this tool? from 928SRUS I believe, and came with the car.
I really should have been a hand model

[MPDano]

Yes, the Kempf tool works perfectly. I've used it in both my 928's without issue.

The instructions are here:

928 Specialists - Tool 9131 - Timing Belt Tensioner Tool

[harborman]

Yes, that is the tool I used as well. You need to go by the gauge, not by what you think is correct! This is very important.

[MPDano]

Also, you may want to contact 928 Specialist on whether the Kempf will properly read with a different type of belt (racing). Especially since it's a different material, it may tension differently. Just a thought.

[Fixer]

Originally Posted by MPDano

Also, you may want to contact 928 Specialist on whether the Kempf will properly read with a different type of belt (racing). Especially since it's a different material, it may tension differently. Just a thought.

Yes, this is why i decided to stop. Maybe i should ask Roger at 928srus

I did check the tension right and by the tools measurement my belt is tight, no way was i going to mess with it and loosen it though. puzzling, it should need tightening. I have every shred of maintenance with my car and a follow up 1000 mile tightening never took place that i can see. Maybe i will look again. This belt was installed 9 years ago at 30K as mentioned.

Thanks for the advice Guys.

[Yellowb1rd]

So curiously,

How difficult is replacing the timing belt on the early, mid, and later years? Is the process the same for the 16V (dual distributor) and 32V motors? I've heard some say they can replace the TB in a couple of hours, and others say it can take a couple of weeks. On the difficulty scale of one to ten (ten being the most difficult) what would you rate this job at for the DIY'er who is able to turn a wrench?

The shop charges approx $1200 for that job with parts (water pump, belt, pulleys, gaskets, etc). Never done one of these on a 928 before, and wouldn't mind giving it a go on an 86, but the concept of removing/replacing two distributors is somewhat daunting. I'd like to hear about your experiences performing this task.

[Landseer]

Its all pretty straightforward, plenty written about it.
Replace all serviceable wear parts.
Strongly consider replacing factory tensioner with the PKTensioner.
Use only a new water pump (Laso from 928sRUS or a Porsche one).
There is a very complete write up for S4 that applies pretty much to all the cars, specfically the 32 V cars though. Somebody can post a link to Dwaynes garage for you.
$1200 is probably not enough money, they will scrimp on parts, else, don't understand the scope of the job. Am about to do the 86 again, I'm experienced and will still figure a full weekend or longer to step through it slowly and clean / inspect. And I've got all the parts, best to replace them whether they need it or not on this job. Shop that is not real 928 centric will have the car on the lift for a week before they figure it out --- else will skip steps and rush it out.

[harborman]

I spent about a week and a half doing mine the first time. It takes more than two hours just to remove covers, drain block, install flywheel lock......etc. My local foreign car shop wanted $2,200 for the job. He owns a 928!

[bowserdog1]

My first time took me two weeks. The steps are pretty straight forward and well documented online. Just take your time, clean parts in between steps and double check everything. I would say on a scale of 1 to 10 with 1 being an oil change and 10 being a transmission/ engine rebuild, I would put it at a 5.
I worked on it just one weekends and even then couldn't devote too much time because of kids' schedules.

[Yellowb1rd]

Thanks for the responses, guys! Guess, I'll give it a try, and we'll see what happens.

I'm going to use the following link as a guide...

members.rennlist.com/pirtle/tbelt.html‎

Anyone use this one, or have any better recommendations for instructions?