Starts. Stops. Sigh...

[curtisr]

Hi,

Hoping someone can help me with my 928's starting and quitting issue. It seems that it will fire reliably with a mere turn of the key (as it always had) but it quits right away.

So far I've:

• revisited the grounds except the one underneath.
• replaced the fuel injection relay

Other info:

• fuel pump is one year old with less than dozen hours on it
• tank is one-third full

Thanking posters in advance.

Roger

[harborman]

It would help if you give the year of the car so we know what ignition/fuel system we are dealing with.

[Mrmerlin]

at the top of the page click on user CP
then find edit signature ,
then add your year and model of 928,
and trans type,
and any other mods you have

[JhwShark]

...and after you give specific's on the MY...describe the observations...when cold or when warmed up...dies within 3 seconds after starting...does not restart after stoping...

[curtisr]

Must have been too frustrated with recent efforts and lack of success to think clearly. This should be better.

My '82 ROW 928 has an A/T and (presumably) an L-Jetronic Bosch FI system.

About a month ago I was trying a new seat switch when my troubles began. I inserted the new part, tried it and was immediately greeted with smoke. Prior to that it started and ran without a hitch. When I tried to start the car right afterwards it would start right away and then run for a second or two before quitting. The car was cold.

So far I've:

• revisited the grounds except the one underneath.
• replaced the fuel injection relay

Other info:

• fuel pump is one year old with less than dozen hours on it
• tank is one-third full

I love this car but hardly seem to ever be able to drive it as it's one thing after another. So, any suggestions are more than welcome and greatly appreciated.

[Mrmerlin]

at the top of the page click on user CP
then find edit signature ,
then add your year and model of 928,
and trans type,
and any other mods you have


Once this is done then the info will be on every post you make, Thanks


Maybe this will get your attention

[SanDiego928]

Looks like that 928 had an ejaculation judging from the wetness. What a great pic.

[MPDano]

Finally a hot woman standing over a hot car. What Merlin says, put that info in your signature.

FYI on your 82 Euro Specs:

80-82 - 3-auto (Euro) 4.5L-16v M28/10 229 271 10.0:1 K-Jetronic 140 7.7 16 3197

S Version which you can prove with the numbers on the front of your engine:

80-83 S - 3-auto (Euro) 4.7L-16v M28/12 300 263 10.0:1 K-Jetronic 152 7.2 15.5 3197

Both CIS.

Post pics of your engine.

Here is where to find the engine numbers:

[curtisr]

Wilco.

[Mrmerlin]

at the top of the page click on user CP
then find edit signature ,
then add your year and model of 928,
and trans type,
and any other mods you have


Once this is done then the info will be on every post you make, Thanks

[curtisr]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

at the top of the page click on user CP
then find edit signature ,
then add your year and model of 928,
and trans type,
and any other mods you have

Wish I hadn't forgotten the year but, that is listed in my garage.

Originally Posted by JhwShark

...and after you give specific's on the MY...describe the observations...when cold or when warmed up...dies within 3 seconds after starting...does not restart after stoping...

Most helpful. Today was quite hot for our part of the world and it started and stayed running. The car was in the drive-way with windows closed; as a result, it was pretty warm inside it.

Originally Posted by MPDano

Finally a hot woman standing over a hot car. What Merlin says, put that info in your signature.

FYI on your 82 Euro Specs:

80-82 - 3-auto (Euro) 4.5L-16v M28/10 229 271 10.0:1 K-Jetronic 140 7.7 16 3197

S Version which you can prove with the numbers on the front of your engine:

80-83 S - 3-auto (Euro) 4.7L-16v M28/12 300 263 10.0:1 K-Jetronic 152 7.2 15.5 3197

Both CIS.

Post pics of your engine.

Here is where to find the engine numbers:

As previously mentioned, it's a ROW car and not a Euro. I couldn't find the engine number. Nice pic.

Still hoping some suggestions might come my way.

[stepson]

Roger,
It is not likely that you will get suggestions until you post specifics about your car. MrMerlin has asked you to post your information in your signature. MPDano has given you a picture showing with an arrow and a closeup where your engine model number is located. You have stated that your car is a ROW and has L-Jet, yet ROW(Euro) for that year is clearly K-Jet as MPDano has indicated. The engine model number is necessary to know. Your further response was a generic picture of an intake without much detail.
We would all be willing to help, but you're gonna have to help us help you.

[Mrmerlin]

M28/14 =1980 928 US 3 speed auto, 4.5L, 220HP, 265 FT/TQ , 9.0:1, L jetronic, top speed 140mph, 0-62 8.5sec.,1/4mile 16 sec., wt 3385 lbs

[curtisr]

Found it! Now how did I miss that? Anyway, it's an M28/16 (81-82 - 3-auto (ROW) 4.5L-16v M28/16 220 265 9.0:1 L-Jetronic 140 8.5 16 3385--Thanks, Leo )

[stepson]

Yea! One small step for man and a giant leap for mankind.

[curtisr]

Originally Posted by stepson

Yea! One small step for man and a giant leap for mankind.

[Mrmerlin]

Thanks for updating your signature.


The info about the M28/16 engine you posted is correct except for one part,
its a US engine not a ROW .

For 1982 ROW or Euro it could be one of 4 engine codes M28/9, M28/10,M28/11,M28/12.

Note M28/11, M28/12 are 300HP engines.

M28/9, M28/10 are 229HP.

For your running issue I would suggest to disconnect the battery and drop the CE panel.

So you can inspect all of the wires on the back, you will be looking for wires with shine to them,
you will note that the wires that have not gotten heated will have a satin finish in the insulation,
the wires that have seen heat will be shiny.
Look for wires that may have melted into the others as they cross.

Please Take pictures of the CE panel and post them before you do anything.

Also inspect the fuel pump fuse wires where they plug into the rear of the panel,
with the battery connected make sure that both wires have 12V going into the wires,
its common for the fuse to test good but the pin connectors get corroded on the back of the CE panel,
and thus the fuse is good but the wire isnt getting power.


Also check the harness that you let the smoke out of.

You didnt say what seat you were working on ,

BUT there is a harness that will have melted wires,
you only need ground and 12v to the seat to run it,
trick is to find out what wires in the seat are for what

[curtisr]

Thank you, thank you, Mr. M. I stand corrected on the ROW/US notation. Will correct.

I will set aside the weekend in order to re-visit the fuse panel. When I first considered a 928 my homework said: 'clean every ground, fuse panel connection--rinse, repeat' and electrical problems are often fixed by keeping the 'relay, relay, relay' mantra in mind. And to date I have checked each fuse for voltage, found some with 3.7 v and cleaned these, changed the grounds supply (as it were) for a number of connectons, pulled the fuse panel for additional checking as required. For my current problem I have replaced the fuel pump and the fuel injection relays. Given that it ran the other day when it was rather hot here I guess I have to revisit the fuse panel.

The seat was the passenger side front. The switch was the up/down adjustment. The seat still tilts and goes back and forth with the existing switches. I have yet to take a look at the motor to see what kind of condition it is in. Regardless, I will replace it with a spare that I have.

I look forward to the weekend when I can revisit the CE.

Thank you again.

[Danglerb]

18 posts and nobody has said Green Wire yet?

Usually the switches fail on seats, windows, sunroof. Grease gets old and gummy on a lot of bits, seats, sunroof, etc.

[Mrmerlin]

Dan, from the first post the car was running fine till the OP let the smoke out of the wires while installing a new Passenger seat switch