928 questions:

[THECARREAPER]

I am not new to messing with cars, but I have never had a 928. I recently sold my moss green 911 Carrera and my Ruf 930 slant nose. Looking for a fun, bang for the buck car.

I am in GA so euro cars are ok.

Is there a particular year euro 928 that is better or worse than the others?

Other than the T belt, and regular maintenance, is there anything specific to look out for on a PPI?

Thank you, I have a lot of reading to do.

I am going to look on Amazon and see if there are any good 928 books or buyers guides.

[Mrmerlin]

Congrats on your next 928 purchase,
I suggest to read this,
it should answer most of your questions

NEW VISITOR? Here are some answers to frequently asked questions. - Rennlist Discussion Forums

[aluminum]

1980 has no air Pump on US Models a large + and switched to Electric Fuel Injection
1985 up has a Better Transmission / Trans axle
16 Valve Motors are less upkeep then the 32 Valve

[stepson]

Sorry to disagree somewhat but:

Originally Posted by aluminum

1980 has no air Pump on US Models a large + and switched to Electric Fuel Injection True for the US version only. The '80 Euro model is CIS and 300 hp As a matter of fact, the ROW models (Euro) all the up through '83 were CIS and 300 hp
1985 up has a Better Transmission / Trans axle Better synchros for sure
16 Valve Motors are less upkeep then the 32 Valve ]I would not subscribe to these thoughts. I believe they require at least the same upkeep.

Remember: 16 valve engines are generally older engines hence they will have a greater degree of degradation. If you had said that generally 16 valve engines don't have the same catastrophic results with a timing belt failure, then I would inclined to agree

[Danglerb]

Bang/buck is same for US and Euro, 1986 model is the hot one for a driver. All of the Euro, and vin 1000+ in US get improved suspension of the S4 with bigger brakes etc. Downside to that is that there are last count 42 Euro 1986 cars in the US and almost all I have seen are a special low compression 32v smog motor required in certain non US markets.

LH 2.2 maf is required to sharktune, comes in US 85/86, can be fitted to 84 Euro.

What is your intention for the car, daily driver, weekend, track, show?

Not a new book, but best overview of ownership I know of, and only 64 pages.
Porsche 928: The Essential Buyer's Guide: David Hemmings: 9781904788706: Amazon.com: Books

[aluminum]

I Don't think replacing Valves / Heads / Camshafts / Pistons / Blocks and more perhaps on a 32 VALVE MOTOR when a Timing Belt Fails / Slips Etc
Can Evan be considered any comparison to a 16 Valve 928 Motors upkeep
Its Simple to me:
Non Interference Motor is a good thing when considering Upkeep costs
Interference Motors - a Bad thing when considering upkeep Costs
So I continue to recommend a 16 Valve Porsche Motor unless you want a all out racer type car
The more Power any Car Develops well result in more breakage.
Just my Recommendation to each his own
A Car in good Condition of any age is just that Evan a New Car.
Here you might get a sense of direction for your personal Tastes regardless of your desires
Link :
Porsche 928 History
They say a New 2014 928 Porsche is on the way it may be called a 929
just think then you could get a brand new one
The 928 - pure comfort and horsepower

[aluminum]

928

[willbj3]

5 speed , 68,xxx miles

[Alan in AZ]

Well I think its a little unfair to add in the cost of catastrophic piston/valve damage when good normal maintenance makes that an extraodinarily rare occurence.

I have yet to hear of a well maintained car with regular (as prescribed) belt changes and tensioner checks having this damage - it is very rare indeed.

If you really wanted to do minimal maintenance & just take chances - maybe a 16V non-interference engine IS a better bet - for me it wouldn't make any difference because both would be maintained well.

A 32 valve is a very reliable car if taken care of properly - mine has been truly an almost DD (>330 day/yr) for almost 14 years and has never let me down mechanically - plenty of issues of course - all able to be taken care of after I got home. Most reliable car I have ever owned.

Alan

[aluminum]

Originally Posted by Alan in AZ

Well I think its a little unfair to add in the cost of catastrophic piston/valve damage when good normal maintenance makes that an extroadinarily rare occurence.
I have yet to hear of a well maintained car with regular (as prescribed) belt changes and tensioner checks having this damage - it is very rare indeed.


Alan

I Agree 100 % With Alan on this " good normal maintenance makes that an extraordinarily rare occurrence. "
" With good normal maintenance "
The Good normal maintenance for a 32 Valve VS a 16 Valve is the difference
So Without getting in to just what those differences are I well just say Marked or substantial in my Option.
No Doubt some members here well have their own Option and I respect that
The Huge Power increase of a 32 Valve motor and suspension of the S Models set a required Pattern of Maintenance for " Consideration "> Its More then just Timing Belt Maintenance .
Now I suppose one should consider that when someone Buys a Porsche they are already of a mindset required Pattern of Maintenance .
Our Poster THECARREAPER asked " Is there a particular year euro 928 that is better or worse than the others?"
so I think the level of maintenance is worth Mention / Consideration when choosing a Model
Now for example take a Porsche 944 ( Half a 928 Motor ) VS a Standard Porsche 911 of the same Year Model > How much Maintenance differences here .
I find it very interesting what Different Year Model Owners think about such things.

[Alan in AZ]

Well I don't think it actually is that much different for the belt reliability.

If you set aside the cost aspect - a 16v car is not much less susceptible to a belt failure than a 32V car. The belt loadings on the 32 valve car may be marginally higher, but the fact that the 16V won't have a belt tension warning means the likelihood of belt failure may actually be higher on a 16V.

It will ruin your day and go down as a spectacular reliability failure either way (one will just cost you more time & $$) - both cost you a very crappy wasted day and a flat bed home...

I understand the OP's question was about best bang for the buck on Euro models - if you only care about performance early Euros with much higher HP than equiv US models may be the best relative bang for the buck - but they are really hard to find in good condition - they were usually driven hard...

With 32V cars we quickly got to the point that there wasn't much difference between ROW/Euro & USA models.

Biq questions on how many $$$ we are talking about

You could also make the case that there is no comparison to the low down torque and high end HP of a Euro GTS (esp '94/'95) and that is is the best Euro 928 at a still relatively resonable price (VMMV) - (but a USA GTS is basically the same... and anyway... where will you find a Euro GTS except in Europe - there was simply no real point importing one)

Alan

[THECARREAPER]

Thank you for all the replies and links. I definitely will order some of those books, and check out those threads. I have an F150 and a Ferrari. The 928 would be a fun around town car. I have had euro spec Ferrari's, Porsche's and Lamborghini's. I found them easier to work on than the smogged USA spec cars. So it is not so much about speed, as it is getting the parts and doing the service work. I work in aerospace and am finishing a degree, buying a nice driver with few needs would be desirable

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by THECARREAPER

I have had euro spec Ferrari's, Porsche's and Lamborghini's. I found them easier to work on than the smogged USA spec cars.

So you are used to overpaying for parts and ridicuously labor intestive maintenance.... you'll be fine with a 928

[THECARREAPER]

Just to update, I ordered several of the books and buyers guides mentioned from Amazon. I am going to try to stay at or under model year 1985. GA charges 1% property taxes now on 85 and older vehicles, and 8% for 86 and subsequent.

My 1986 Ferrari 328 cost me $1400.00 to register last year.

In years past it was less than $200.00 per year in taxes for an old Ferrari ( I have had 10).

I use to only keep a fun car for a year or so, so this new law sucks for me.

Thanks.

[SanDiego928]

"My 1986 Ferrari 328 cost me $1400.00 to register last year. "

OMG.

[MPDano]

That registration sounds about the same as smoging a 928 in Calif these days

[JK McDonald]

Hey CARREAPER - Our auto-registration fees and taxes are on the rise everywhere. I jokingly told the clerk the last time I renewed my license plates at the courthouse that the state of Texas aught to owe me money because everything I drive is old. "Instead of having a spare tire, if something breaks off - I have a spare vehicle". She didn't even crack a smile....

Although income and property values have taken an a real a$$ kicking over the last few years, our auto, home and sales taxes are on a steady rise across the country. I can only assume that part of it must be in support of all the official redistribution of the wealth strategies and government healthcare programs.

Michael

[stepson]

Unfortunately JK, I think you may be correct!

[924CarreraGTP]

I would say an '80 to '83 Euro model would be the best bang for the buck on a limited pocket book. I'm rusty on my 928 Euro knowledge, but aren't '84 Euro engines interference engines? I know the '84 U.S. spec is non interference, but I thought the '84 Euro was interference.
I agree that the manual transmissions had synchronizer issues until '85.
In a U.S. car I would go with an '83 or '84 4.7 S. Only 240hp, but still a fast car. Don't be down on automatics either. The 4 speed Mercedes unit is a very robust and reliable transmission provided that it doesn't leak, or slip, and the kickdown works. The manual transmission cars are nice, and rare, but so are the parts for them.
Plus as a race car, you can technically blow a timing belt from ill maintenance in a 4.7 U.S. car, and be back racing in a few hours. Try that in a 911, 930, 944, 968, or 32 valve 928. 924 shouldn't even be mentioned. They are an underpowered Audi.

[Danglerb]

All this info about whats best gets trumped by 928 in good condition that you like. None of them are going to be inexpensive, so if you don't buy what you like, chances are you won't put up with the pesky side of ownership long.