Does anyone have a working CIS fuel distributor?

[BoiseShark]

We are trying to trouble-shoot spool's '79 because it keeps falling out of tune every day or so.

I am wondering if anyone in the community has a known working fuel distributor that they would be kind enough to send us and allow us to see if this is the issue.

If it is, we will either buy the one you send us or send it back in the same shape that we received it in. The fuel system is clean and this is a daily runner so we will not damage it in anyway and I am very familiar with install.

We just can't bring ourselves to buy one just to see if this is the issue and we can't send it off for a rebuild because the car is needed to get to work and back.

Just thought I would throw it out there. The car is so close to running perfect but just needs constant attention to keep it that way day to day.

Thanks for reading my pleading request.

[Danglerb]

Have you used a CIS fuel pressure test set and they all measure OK? If so time to get the fuel dist rebuilt.

[BoiseShark]

Ya, fuel pressures are good.

[medipedicman]

What type of symptoms is Ramon experiencing? If you have steady fuel pressure you may want to look at the ignition control module or the coil.

[spooledx2]

Ok so we were adjusting the CO screw and it ended up falling in the manifold. So I got pissed and decided to tear it all down to the heads and do a full intake/ fuel system refresh. Better to start off at a known new point then deal with old stuff.

I talked to Roger on the phone on Saturday and he said "you need a fuel pressure test kit to make sure all your pressures are correct". So since I didn't have a gage and neither did Rob, and the fact that I hate borrowing tools I went out and bought myself a new toy :-) I love new toys.
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Harbor Freight had a nice kit that covers all the fuel injection systems including the CIS units. It was 89.00, not bad IMO. Looks like the same kit most others sell with a different sticker.

So we began tearing **** apart.
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Getting a list of stuff I need to order from Roger. Here is a short list of what I am going to start with.
Plenum gaskets
Spider gaskets
New silicone vacuum hoses
Replacing all the hoses on the upper end
Redoing the fuel lines to the injector with new braided hoses.
New fuel hoses(still has originals on it)
New fuel filter
New cam seal(drivers side is leaking)
Smog pump delete

And cleaning everything up as I go.

That should be a good start. If anyone else can think of other things let me know.

Thanks Ramon

[Danglerb]

I don't like the silicone hoses for vacuum lines, I used the hard nylon line kit from Roger with the MB rubber elbows and T's.

Wow, clean looking valley, mine was yuck 1/2 deep.

Replace the rubber isolator bushings that hold up stuff in the valley, old rubber is hard.

HF used to sell a CIS kit that did NOT work on Bosch, your's looks complete, but you didn't use a 25% off coupon or get a set of free gloves or a stainless steel magnetic parts dish?

[spooledx2]

Thanks man. I will talk to Roger about the hard nylon instead. Oh the valley was caked for sure. That was after some Purple Power and scrubbing with a brass wire brush. All the isolators on mine were shot completely, none of them were attached at all.

They guy at HF said to just bring my receipt in on the forth of July sale and they will give me the 25% off even though I purchased it before. Which is pretty cool of them.

Oh and BTW that is Rob aka BoiseShark in the pic. Thanks for all your help buddy.

Cheers,
Ramon

[MPDano]

I hope that gauge works well for you. I bought a fuel pressure gauge from HB and first time I used it, the gauge filled up with fuel. Save that receipt.

Also, your breaking it down this far and replacing all the rubber, gaskets, etc. Send that FD out for rebuilding.

[spooledx2]

Yes I always keep my receipts from them. They are hit and miss usually, some good and some bad.

Question for you Dano. Who should I send the FD to to get rebuilt and should I send out the original steel one or this adjustable Mercedes unit? And of course as all this **** goes... As soon as I tear this thing down. I lose the transmission in the my Mercedes S320 DD. Just my luck lately...

Thanks for the help.

Ramon

[MPDano]

Originally Posted by spooledx2

Yes I always keep my receipts from them. They are hit and miss usually, some good and some bad.

Question for you Dano. Who should I send the FD to to get rebuilt and should I send out the original steel one or this adjustable Mercedes unit? And of course as all this **** goes... As soon as I tear this thing down. I lose the transmission in the my Mercedes S320 DD. Just my luck lately...

Thanks for the help.

Ramon

Contact them off ebay. Pretty sure they are the same ones who did mine. If they are on the east coast, get their business name and address and post it. I need to put this in the common fixes thread.

K Jetronic CIS Fuel Distributor Rebuild Services Repair | eBay

[spooledx2]

Awesome, Thanks Dano. Usually adds with bad grammar scare me off.... But since you have used them I will give it a shot. Lol

So the other question is which to send in? At that price I may send in both, since that seems to be pretty cheap. It looks like a very easy and straight forward process to rebuild one. I just don't have the time to mess with it right now.


Ramon

[AirtekHVAC]

I got the kit and did my own.....I am glad I did it, and would do it again. It was a pain, due to me not being familiar with all the parts inside. That said, I recommend you send it to be fixed, unless you just want to learn how. The kit costs more than half of the rebuild service.

Also, the link that Dano posted...those folks are like 15 mins from me.....I might need to go chat them up....

[spooledx2]

So I was finally getting ready to bolt the intake stuff back on the engine after tearing off all of the manifold, hoses ect... And I started cleaning up the heads and valley when I noticed a clump of JB Weld type stuff. It wasn't stuck very well so I popped it up... And to my surprise this is what I found....

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A nice hole right into the water jacket on the head. I popped up the mess on the surface and used a vacuum as I slowly drilled out what was there as it was seeping coolant and wanted to keep the stuff from going into the head as much as possible.

It's a hole about 3/16 in diameter.... This is on the passenger side next to the #5 intake port... Upon closer inspection there is quite a bit of epoxy down in there as well. It's a pretty jagged hole. I was also surprised to see how thin the aluminum is in that area. Less than 1/8 thick... It almost looks to have been punched through. I doubt it was made from corrosion. So that was a bummer. I was going to yank the head off and fix it until Rob aka BoiseShark suggested I just swap in the super low mileage 1980 motor in to it.

So looks like I will be yarding this old mill out and doing an engine swap.

Oh goody.

Ramon

[GuyS]

JUST FYI, My HF kit is identical to yours and will work IF you remove either the whole quick connect or the schrader valve and female counterpart. The valves interfere with the readings as they are uni-directional.

[stepson]

The Texas contingent is on the way into Idaho towards the OCIC in Kananaskis. I think the closest they get to Boise is Pocatello(probably this evening)

BoiseShark, Are you going to the OCIC?

Sorry in advance for the hijack.

[curt_924]

Have you thought about putting a pop rivet into the hole to seal it? That or thread it and put a screw... imho..

[Danglerb]

I am still wondering what sort of fitting originally went where the hole is now, but I am a bit confused on which end of which head has the hole.

The trouble with any messing with the water passages that might leave debris, the filter is the radiator.

[spooledx2]

Thanks for the replies gents. Being a machinist I have a real issue with a cheap and "cheesey" fix. I did think about tapping it and installing a set screw or something, but like I said the thickness of the material in a that area is very minimal. Since it is about a 5/16" hole you would have to go with at least a 3/8-16 tap. For good thread engagement and strength on a tapped hole you need at least full threads. If that area is indeed .125 thick that would give you two full threads max since each thread is .0625 on a 16 threads/inch tap. Not only that but, I too am unsure of how much JB Weld and debris is still left in the hole. As DanglerB mentioned plugging the radiator is a major concern.

Thanks

[honerboys]

could install a flush tee - drill and tap - then dis-connect the radiator and flush it out with a garden hose