1980 Hydraulic Clutch adjustment

[aluminum]

928 Experts and more
My 1980 5 Speed with all stock Clutch set up as far as I know seems to have Very little or no Free Pedal Play .
Engagement / Release , is very High up or near the top of the pedal travel

Any Advice or tips on gaining Free play and lower the " Engagement / Release " position on my Clutch pedal .

Perhaps I need to adjust the Dual Clutch Disk / Pressure plate to gain free play ?

Any Links to do that the proper way " Dual Clutch Disk / Pressure plate adjustment "

How is it working : THE GOOD . Clutch works Smooth and feels Normal except for the High Pedal Engagement .
THE BAD : when the Car is good and warmed up upon hard full Throttle acceleration the Clutch begins to slip and I feel no Free Play .
What it feels like : Feels like the Throw out Bearing has not enough free play and is not allowing the Pressure plate to fully Release from the disk yuck .

Is this a sign that the Clutch Disks have worn thin ?
Perhaps their is a inspection hole to inspect the Disk wear

A Hydraulic Clutch should self adjust but this one is not as I don't have normal Free play it seems
like ( 1/4 inch or so )

Happy Motoring 928 lovers

[Mrmerlin]

I would inspect and replace the release arm bushing , from the info this part has failed

[aluminum]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

I would inspect and replace the release arm bushing , from the info this part has failed

Thanks for input To Replace the " release arm bushing "
Does this require the removal of the entire Clutch and pressure plate and associated parts ( release arm / bearing and humm what else )
Bell Housing ?

I posted on this issue once before and I just reviewed that post where you gave good input before .
I shall again check the pedal Free Play also and perhaps experiment with more and less free Play.
All in All as the clutch works so smooth and free with no binds it makes me wonder if this might suggest whether or not the " release arm bushing " is at Issue
IE : if the linkage is binding or not smooth ? or the Linkage being smooth the " release arm bushing " can still be bad .
I know to tear the whole thing down is the definitive answer But heck if you don't ask you may not get a answer lol

[Mrmerlin]

to swap in a new bushing is not very difficult.
FIRST inspect the bushing remove the aircleaner,
then with a flashlight look at the top of the bell housing on the driver side,
see if the release arm has play or the bushing is tan/ brown/ powder/
if so then its not white like a new one.

to remove the old one,
remove the slave cylinder,
then remove the lower bell housing,
this will free up the arm, and you should be able to pull the arm off the ball.

Once this is done, then get a hook tool and scrape the cup to remove all of the old bushing.
get a long pry bar and a small block of wood,
and figure out how to pry the new bushing onto the ball.
once this is done then pry the arm onto the new bushing

[Opelotus]

Sounds like the clutch pedal pushrod may be over-adjusted. There is a very quick and easy adjustment procedure given in the workshop manual. I'll share a picture when I get home tonight.

[Opelotus]

Try this out:

[aluminum]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

to swap in a new bushing is not very difficult.
FIRST inspect the bushing remove the aircleaner,
then with a flashlight look at the top of the bell housing on the driver side,
see if the release arm has play or the bushing is tan/ brown/ powder/
if so then its not white like a new one.

to remove the old one,
remove the slave cylinder,
then remove the lower bell housing,
this will free up the arm, and you should be able to pull the arm off the ball.

Once this is done, then get a hook tool and scrape the cup to remove all of the old bushing.
get a long pry bar and a small block of wood,
and figure out how to pry the new bushing onto the ball.
once this is done then pry the arm onto the new bushing

Great
So when you say in part
see if the release arm has play or the bushing is tan/ brown/ powder/
if so then its not white like a new one.
Is that Also a way to Check :
for a bit of Free Play between the " release arm " \and the T.O.B.

Very Interesting so the " bushing " Can be replaced without the entire Clutch coming apart , Dropped out so to speak .

Is Very Interesting to Note that any Pedal free play is only Push rod free play rather then TOB Free Play . Point being to have some is not indicative of TOB Free play at all.

I Need to inspect the Clutch Disk Thickness if possible also .
Can I with clutch depressed inspect this with the bottom Bell housing off .
Perhaps my Disk's are simple worn thin Evan though they still work smooth .
If the Clutch Disk Wear go's right to the outer Diameter of the disk this should be simple

Hope to get a look at it in the next few days

[Mrmerlin]

once you remove the slave cylinder,
then the release arm will move freely,
then you see how much play the arm has on the bushing interface with the ball.

The release arm can be levered open to inspect the discs,
but it takes lots of hard miles to wear them out

[aluminum]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

once you remove the slave cylinder,
then the release arm will move freely,
then you see how much play the arm has on the bushing interface with the ball.

The release arm can be levered open to inspect the discs,
but it takes lots of hard miles to wear them out

RE: "then you see how much play the arm has on the bushing interface with the ball. " That's Great Information and make clear Sense to me " I was wondering about just that .

So I Placed the 928 on Stands Yesterday and Pressure Washed under front area of the Car . Upon Inspection it look's like to remove the Starter perhaps the Sway Bar must be removed . Humm Or Perhaps with the Starter Bolts and Bell Housing Bolts all can be removed together and dropped Down together rather then remove the Sway Bar that sits just in front of the Starter.

My Plan was to remove the Lower bell Housing and depress the Clutch Pedal to inspect the Disk's Thickness ( before any Slave Cylinder removal )

So : A Experiment seemed in order .
I Backed off the 2 Slave Cylinder retaining Bolts and inserted 2 Washers in between
the Cylinder and the Bell Housing . Washers where about 50 to 60 Thousands Thick .
or 1/16 of a inch .
Results :
(1) Upon Motor starting Tested the " Engagement ( friction ) Point and found it to be about 3/4 of a inch lower from Top of Pedal .
(2) Driving / Testing : Clutch No longer slips at All !! .
Shifted from second to 5th and with full Throttle the Clutch no longer slips at all.
(3) Drive car about 1 Hour and Clutch works smooth and completely normal .

Note's : I did inspect the Pedal Free Play and it is just that , is no movement of the slave Cylinder Push Rod when moving / depressing the free play back and forth.
Pedal Free Play feels normal and correct.
AS I understand it the T.O.B. ( throw out bearing ) on a 928 spins all the time
( weird ? unlike any other car I have seen )
Whats Wrong with the Clutch ? :
My Best Guess now is that the Disk's are worn down thin .
As the disk's wear's Thin the pressure plate fingers push out further > thus eliminating ( in My case ) or reducing the free Play . As the RPM increase inertia well also push out the pressure plate fingers ( another reason ) for free play .

The Bad : If I am right and disks are worn I am in danger of damage to the pressure Plate and flywheel . However with the Clutch Disks slipping with no Free Play the same IE : Damage to pressure Plate and Fly Wheel .

Thanks for the help

I hope to search on just how to remove the Starter and Bell Housing to inspect the Disks as well as possible .
To not have the Clutch Slip in the meantime seems better then to have it slip as it has been since I got the car under W.O.T.