Quick questions?

[honerboys]

hey does any one know offhand the answers to these:
thanks in advance

1. being a mile high i'm wondering if the timing has to be advanced a few degrees - this used to be the standard practice but later model cars (including my old 86 Toyota) did the adjustment automatically - do these cars do the same - going to try to get emissions test done this week

2.what actions trigger the interior lights? I know doors and rear hatch (although I can't see the switch for the hatch - is it incorporated into the latch mechanism) - is there a switch inside to turn them all on? - mine won't go off - can't seem to lose the intermittent negative with everything closed

3. what type of plastic is the front lower spoiler made of - going top try my hand at plastic welding and I need to match the type - ABS? PVC? PP? Other?

4. can anyone identify the pieces below - plastic, about 28 x 5 inches - no markings - looks like some road splashes on one side - something underneath perhaps

5. the corner window trim pieces on doors - pretty much impossible to remove without snapping off studs - an available part? - or just glue them back on?

6. the windshield wiper arms I have don't have a plastic cap to cover the mounting nuts - doesn't even look like a place where they were snapped off - the rear has them - is it a separate part on the fronts?

[honerboys]

I answered question #2 - seems my rear hatch is not seating far enough to trip the switch - so disconnected it and now the interior lights operate as they should - but now I have a new question: does any one know the wire scheme for the radio - I think I've got the front speaker wires and the constant power wire isolated - but there are 5 more (brown - brown/white - red - red/white - and a small white one) that I can't trace - I would think one is for the power antenna - i also would think there is power one that is key controlled but none of these do that - I didn't think the rear speakers had wires from the radio and that they originated at the fader control near handbrake - but I could be wrong about that - thanks

[Danglerb]

1 Don't know about your smog test, but one of the first things in mine is checking that the timing is set to the factory amount, or fail.
2 Pin switches in door jamb and hatch latch, plus similar under the hood for hood light. The lights have three position switches, on, off, door/hatch, under hood is on when hood is open and lights are on at least I think parking.
3 Look for Leo's write up on welding his spoiler.
4 dunno
5 dunno
6 The wiper nut covers have three or so part numbers, and are not interchangeable "well".

[honerboys]

danglerb here in Colorado the test is strictly tailpipe emissions - they put the car on a dyno type machine and run it at different speeds while a pipe is attached to exhaust - newer cars also get a obd hookup and test - so it has always been that "up here" cars run better and cleaner if they are advanced about 3-4 degrees - don't know if that is true for these cars - most newer ones adjust their timing themselves for altitude I believe but most also don't have any timing adjustment at all

[Mrmerlin]

the long plastics go along the inner tops of the front fenders,
the one with hose cutouts is for the right side to hold the headlamp washer hose.

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

the long plastics go along the inner tops of the front fenders,
the one with hose cutouts is for the right side to hold the headlamp washer hose.

Stan, Maybe you can answer him on the altitude issue being in Denver. I think you lived there, so possibly you can give him some advise on it. I would think the computer makes the adjustments as with the new cars.

Rudy

[honerboys]

ok - I advanced the timing to 22 degrees BTDC - car idles great and passed emissions so I think i'll leave it there - I found some pieces of a front air dam in my parts stuff so i'm going to try using them as welding rods for the complete but broken one I have - the interior light problem was the rear hatch not breaking contact - i'm going to try hot melt glue on the window corner pieces - mrmerlim, found those pieces already installed on this car so these must be from the 79, thanks - as for the wiper caps, I guess i'll have to look around here and see if I have them - the rear wiper ones are attached to the arm so I don't know if these snapped off and are irreplaceable or if I can just get some round ones that will work - thanks to all

[The Deputy]

Brian,

I used JB Weld to repair my chin spoiler, roughed it up on the backside with a dremel tool and somewhat aggressive bit...about two inches in both directions of the crack, applied a coat of JB Weld to the crack edges and clamped. After that had dried, room temperature, I stitched pieces of plastic (1/2X4) across the cracks on the backside. Repaired several of the mounting hole areas, too. Smooth all of your areas on the front with sand paper.

The JB Weld dries kind of grayish color, so I recolored it with (believe it or not) black shoe polish. The two spots repaired are hardly noticeable (even from inches away) and have held together after one season of driving. Even after coming into the boulevard here at work" kind of hot" and scraping it along the cement for a few feet. It's even held up to me, 235lbs, using it as a spot to pull myself under the car a few times while working on the alternator.

Brian.

EDIT: There are a couple pictures of my chin spoiler on my "New Here" topic, page 2.

[honerboys]

my son (the welder) bought me a plastic welder for Christmas - so I want to try it out - if that goes south i'll try something like what you did - I just posted on your restoration thread how I colored my seats with magic markers so the shoe polish trick is right in my wheelhouse