Noisy lifters?

[5l32v4c]

I suspect I am running too light a weight engine oil (Castrol Edge 10w30 synthetic) which is causing lifter noise, but I wanted to get some input.

The 32v starts easily and idles quietly from cold. There is no noise when the engine is hot and running even slightly above idle, but it rattles when warm / hot and idling.

It only seems to be rattling from the left-hand bank. Oil pressure is good at all times according to the instrument panel gauge and, as I said, if I take it even slightly above idle the noise goes away.

Assuming the noise is from the lifters, I am going to try a heavier weight oil (10w40 or 50) but I’m just wondering why it seems to be coming only from one bank.

Can the lifters themselves go bad?

[Mrmerlin]

I would not put anything but Valvoline Racing 20W50 into this engine for the rest of its life.
The oil you have now will destroy this engine, it is not made to run on water,
and thats essentially what you have done.

The lifter also have been known to go bad and swapping all of them seems to be a good way to go.
NOTE you can use the lightweight VW lifters,
talk to Greg Brown for further info about this modification .

That said, the best thing to do now is refill the with the Valvoline 20W50 Racing oil and drive it like you stole it

[aluminum]

Originally Posted by Mrmerlin

I would not put anything but Valvoline Racing 20W50 into this engine for the rest of its life.
The oil you have now will destroy this engine, it is not made to run on water,
and thats essentially what you have done.

The lifter also have been known to go bad and swapping all of them seems to be a good way to go.
NOTE you can use the lightweight VW lifters,
talk to Greg Brown for further info about this modification .

That said, the best thing to do now is refill the with the Valvoline 20W50 Racing oil and drive it like you stole it

RE : Valvoline 20W50 Racing Oil . Is that a VR1 your referring to a NON " synthetic " Oil
>>> OR A Synthetic Racing Oil I can't find good Info on this Oil . Some links say is not a synthetic and some say it is ? .
I have had good service from Shell Rotella 20W40 for years and Years what do you think of that Oil .

[harborman]

I have been using 15W40 in my car. Others here seem to be using it as well.

[Pete R]

Old lifters sometimes drain off and collapse if the motor is stopped with that particular valve open. They should pump back up when oil pressure resumes, if they don't it's completely bad. There may even be a particle in the hole. You may want to replace them.
As for oil, you will get a million opinions on brands with basically no knowledge behind it. Use the proper weight, either and x-40 or 50. Oils are far more advanced now than when these cars were built, any brand will work. Ideally you would want a "racing" oil with a higher concentration of zinc/phosphorus that has been removed from conventional oils to be more cat friendly. Racing oils typically have less detergents and acid neutralizers for extended drain intervals so you may want to change it more frequently.

[The Deputy]

The PO had changed the oil in my 78 just before I got it, Mobil 1 synthetic, and it started rattling heavily on start up afterwards (first second or two). Drained it out and put in some 20W50 (no idea which brand...got it from work...vendor gave us a free drum to try...anyhow...)...and the rattle is gone. I've used this same oil in my 84 and have had good luck.

Brian.

[Linderpat]

Brian - I would never use Mobil 1 in my shark. Tried it once too, and it leaked out in spots in an otherwise leak free car. It is too thin, even at the 20W50 weight. Just awful for our cars.
I now use Royal Purple, but there are many other good choices out there too. Does NOT have to be synthetic; just have good zinc properties (ZDDP).

[Mrmerlin]

Valvoline 20 W 50 racing is NON synthetic version. I put it all the cars that leave the shop,
its a good oil and will work excellent in the 928 engine.
Other options Royal Purple or Brad Penn 20 W 50

[Mrmerlin]

https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-822347-20W-50-Racing-Motor/dp/B00DJ4FIPQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465330368&sr=8-1&keywords=valvoline+racing+oil+20w+50

[Linderpat]

Yes, dino oil is fine for our cars.

[harborman]

What happened to all the oil charts vs temperature being driven in? Even the Porsche owners manual has it in there. I just can't see a 20 w 50 use in winter like here when it gets down to 10 below, or a lighter oil used in the desert of California when it's 110 out.

[Mal81]

I'm no expert; and 'spiritual,' but not religious, on the subject.

However.... ZDDP in sufficient quantity is what you want, as Mrmerlin has said. Here's why:
ZDDP - Debunking The Motor Oil Additive Urban Legend

[5l32v4c]

I am going to try Valvoline Racing 20W-50 as mmerlin suggested. In my experience, the Castrol Edge 10W-30 is way too thin, even though the owner's manual says it should be fine. I will let you guys know if this solves the rattling issue.

Originally Posted by Linderpat

Brian - I would never use Mobil 1 in my shark. Tried it once too, and it leaked out in spots in an otherwise leak free car. It is too thin, even at the 20W50 weight. Just awful for our cars.
I now use Royal Purple, but there are many other good choices out there too. Does NOT have to be synthetic; just have good zinc properties (ZDDP).

Linderpat, I thought the viscosity for a given weight would be the same for both synthetic and dino. If this is not the case, perhaps the 10W-30 that the manual suggests is the dino weight (?)

[The Deputy]

Originally Posted by Linderpat

and it leaked out in spots in an otherwise leak free car.

Yes, Ed.

Forgot to mention this...

Same thing. We went and looked at the 78 (twice within a day or two), waited a week or two before making up our minds to buy, meanwhile, PO had changed the oil as mentioned in my earlier post (since he was still driving the car) and there were no leaks the two times I had been underneath, anywhere.

Then we go to buy the car and he mentions he'd done an oil change and all. We get home...and it is dripping in two different places. I thought...perfect...I got snookered on this one.

Changed the oil myself recently...no oil leaks anywhere.

Brian.

[Pete R]

Originally Posted by 5l32v4c

I am going to try Valvoline Racing 20W-50 as mmerlin suggested. In my experience, the Castrol Edge 10W-30 is way too thin, even though the owner's manual says it should be fine. I will let you guys know if this solves the rattling issue.



Linderpat, I thought the viscosity for a given weight would be the same for both synthetic and dino. If this is not the case, perhaps the 10W-30 that the manual suggests is the dino weight (?)

They both use the same procedure to measure viscosity. There is a range of flow in each index however. You can have a light 40 weight that's close to a 30 or a heavy 40 weight that's close to a 50. It doesn't matter whether it's a synthetic or dino. Some people feel the Mobil is on the lighter end of the scale but it's not enough difference that would make a vehicle leak or not. The molecules of synthetic are smaller and mobil may have a different seal conditioner additive formula .. but the actual viscosity is not why it leaks.

[Linderpat]

That Mobil 1 was very thin at the same viscosity when compared to the Royal Purple or the Valvolene or Castrol (all good in my book). It just found a way out, and I am not sure why, other than it was too thin. Would love o se more discussion on this point and others experience (besides Brian and me).

[harborman]

Originally Posted by Linderpat

That Mobil 1 was very thin at the same viscosity when compared to the Royal Purple or the Valvolene or Castrol (all good in my book). It just found a way out, and I am not sure why, other than it was too thin. Would love o se more discussion on this point and others experience (besides Brian and me).

Many discussions on oil it seems. We have gone through this before. Brings up an old story. Yeas ago I knew his guy who called solid lifters, "soli listers", "oh that car has soli listers".

[Danglerb]

My 83 has lifter noise sometimes after not running for 5 or more minutes, but so far its always gone away eventually. I run Rotella 20w50 non synthetic and add some Marvel Mystery oil once in a great while. My 83 is non interference and stock cam so I am not messing with it until its a real problem.

Generally many people have had trouble with low viscosity oil in the 928, I would not do it.

[5l32v4c]

So I swapped out the Castrol Edge 10W-30 synthetic for Valvoline Racing 20W-50 conventional oil this past weekend. I still have a bit of a tick at idle, particularly when the engine is hot, but it is waaay better than it was.

The (fairly warm) 10W-30 was like like water when I drained it, as mmerlin said it would be. I will never use 10W-30 in this car again. The first start on the 20W-50 sounded horendous as all the lifters were dry, but after a few seconds the new oil made its way up top and it sounded so much better. I was concerned that 20W-50 was going to be too thick to circulate properly but I think if it can make it up into the lifters it's a good sign. This might be a consideration for those in colder climates.

BTW, the only place I could find that stocked the Valvoline Racing oil here in BC Canada was Walmart and not many other places stocked that weight in any brand.

Thanks for all your input guys. For what it's worth, so far anyway, I have to agree that 20W-50 is the way to go for milder climates. I think the change intervals might be shorter, though, due to the composition of the racing oil (i.e. fewer detergents).

[Mrmerlin]

you should be good for 5K miles you have 9 QTS of oil in that sump it takes a lot of time to use it up