bleeding/venting the cooling system

[soxnail]

I do realize this topic has been beat to death......but I am having no success in doing it this time. Normally the front end higher than the back and filling the system let the air out of the vent. Drive and repeat a few times and it works.
In this case after replacing the water pump, both the thermostats, hoses and the heater valve (it was leaking). I also flushed the heater core both direction, confirmed the operation of the heater valve.
500 miles of front end higher and venting (both hot and cold engine), The car is running hotter and there is no heat out of the hvac. So air pockets right ?
One more data point the temperature gauge does not the fluctuate just climbs to the second white line. I am used to seeing it at the first white line.
The only difference in the lay out is that I moved the heater valve up so it was easier to see and get to. It is still below the vent point.
I have also tried the "using a pressure tester to fill the system" same results.
I am about to try the vacuum the system the system and then fill it with the vacuum drawing the coolant in.
Any insights would be appreciated.
Thanks Sox

[grendiers]

How about using a coolant pressure tester with vent open?

[944 Ecology]

After doing major work on the cooling system, I would carry a 12 mm box end wrench around with me (for a couple of weeks) and open the bleed screw. It seemed to work well as the air in the system found its way to the highest point.

[soxnail]

Originally Posted by grendiers

How about using a coolant pressure tester with vent open?

Sox: "I have also tried the "using a pressure tester to fill the system" same results."

Thx

[soxnail]

Originally Posted by 944 Ecology

After doing major work on the cooling system, I would carry a 12 mm box end wrench around with me (for a couple of weeks) and open the bleed screw. It seemed to work well as the air in the system found its way to the highest point.

That is what I have been doing for the last 1200 miles....Only coolant comes out.
Sox

[soxnail]

Used a vacuum fill system (home made), that fixed the running hot issue.
The no heat issue was due to the heater valve being too high as compared to the engine block, even though it was below the vent hole height.
Sox

[soxnail]

Well premature...
Fixed the no heat issue but the running hot still exists. One interesting thing is that the slow fans have always come on at the first white mark on the gauge. Now they are coming on later, see attached pic.
At this time the only item that is original in the cooling system is the radiator.
I did get a very small "pisst" of steam from the vent after the run, so I will keep venting.
Sox

[soxnail]

The gauge in the dash tests good....Interestingly it is fed from unregulated +12v, so if the the car's electrical load changes, lights on for example will cause it to read high.
Still looking Sox.

[soxnail]

One more theory put to bed...
I thought that the old thermostat might have been a 'cold' one, but nope it's 80 Deg C. so the car was running cooler before I did all the cooling system work.
Sox

[BobCT]

I’ve been chasing a similar issue on mine. I would strongly recommend the $80 Maddox vac bleeder from HF. THEN you can completely rule out a bleeding issue which I must have done 20 times.

[soxnail]

Originally Posted by BobCT

I’ve been chasing a similar issue on mine. I would strongly recommend the $80 Maddox vac bleeder from HF. THEN you can completely rule out a bleeding issue which I must have done 20 times.

Sox: "Used a vacuum fill system (home made),"
I already did that, vacuumed to 25 inches and let it suck in the coolant. Interestingly when it was done (no more vacuum) the coolant level came to exactly half way between the max and min line.
Sox

[soxnail]

Further... tested the instrument cluster gauge, it is mostly accurate. Tad high at 115 deg C, but dead on between 100 and 60 Deg C.
Sox