Need info on installing new k27 turbo

[Buck toenges]

Does anybody have detailed info on taking out my old turbo and installing the new unit from vitesse? Do I need to by a factory manual? I have gotten a bently book for my 911 engine 914 swap but I don't think Bentley makes one for the 944. Pictures and details would be nice!

[Lawrence Coppari]

Loosen the turbo feed pipe at waste gate and header. 10 bolts/nuts total I think. Unbolt the exhaust input pipe to the turbo (4 bolts). Unbolt the turbo exhaust, 4 more bolts. The turbo flange bolts might be easier to get at if you remove the water line first (below).

Remove the intake runner and water hose to and from the turbo after lowering the water level in the radiator. Remove the oil feed line to turbo (top). The turbo is held in place by two bolts under it. They are cap head. You use a hex drive on them. You probably will have to remove the air intake for the alternator if you have one to get at them. Make sure the hex drive fits the bolts properly. If you strip one, you have a problem. Give the hex drive a whack to seat the drive and wake up the bolt.

Naturally, replace the o-ring under the turbo and crush seals on oil inlet when you install the new turbo.

What I have said is strictly memory. I have not had mine off in a couple of years.

When you assemble, you might have to use tapered punches to line up the exhaust line flanges with the turbo. Attach the turbo first by way of the two cap head bolts, then the flanges last. The exhaust lines are prestressed to account for thermal expansion.

[944 fanatic]

I just went through all of this -
I was also replacing my wastegate at the same time, so removing the crossover pipe was already in the equation for me. Removing it is a pain, but it will give you better access to the flange connecting the turbo outlet (downpipe) with the exhaust.
One way or another, you'll need to disconnect the exhaust from the downpipe and remove the turbo with the downpipe attached.
Once you have the exhaust and intake removed you can remove the Turbo water pump by following what Lawrence said above.

While doing this, I discovered that my turbo water pump had been disconnected by the PO (as was the wastegate pressure line, as was the cycling valve, as was the....).

One way or another, once the exhaust, intake manifold/fuel rail, intake plumbing, and water pump lines are taken care of, the only thing left holding the turbo on are the 2 torturous bolts that mount it to the motor mount. One is longer than the other and they are known to strip (ask me how I know).

You'll need a 6mm hex key socket and about 18' of extensions (more for the shorter one) to get to them. From underneath the car, look up between the steering knuckle and the oil pan to get access to them. It would behoove you to wake up the threads on these bolts by hammering the hex key into the bolt's head. Back these out and the job is done. These two bolts are probably the toughest two of the turbo removal. The rest is time consuming but fairly easy.

Also - regarding removing the exhaust - there is a bolt that attaches the downpipe flange to the engine block. It's very tough to get at because the downpipe will be in the way of your socket wrench. Best way I found to do it is from under the car, where you can't see the bolt. have someone standing by to help from above when the socket slips off the bolt.

IIRC the exhaust bolts are 13 and 15mm depending on what part of the exhaust (I think the exhaust inlet is 15mm and the outlet is 13mm). If one of the bolts feels like it wants to strip, heat it to glowing red - you should have no problems getting them off.

Hope that helps!

[944 fanatic]

One thing I forgot to add is that all your questions about maintenance and upgrades, including step by step walkthroughs are available at www.clarks-garage.com in the workshop manual section.

I woudln't have been able to do much on my car without it, it's really good at explaining things.

[Lawrence Coppari]

I have a K27dr turbo (Powerhaus) on mine. When I installed it in January 1997, the factory steel piping would no longer fit under the intake - as Powerhaus said. The steel tubing had to be bent to fit so the instructions indicated. I had no luck bending it. Instead, I cut it and brazed it back together in the shape I needed. Maybe yours will fit without any grief.

I use a cap head hex drive bolt that holds the turbo exhaust to the block. I find it easier to cope with that than an ordinary bolt that requires a standard socket.

[Pb_Foot951]

I had clearance problems installing my K27. The compressor housing contacted the plenum and the rivets on the throttle return spring bracket. Had to do some grinding to ensure the intake would properly seal.

The housings have to be loosened to index the inlets and outlets for your car.