Open Block Surgery (long)

porschepatron · 10-17-2001, 08:33 PM

Just in case you folks didnt know i opted to go ahead and rebuild my motor. Due to the amount of mileage and future plans I had for her (not to mention I had the time and money)I thought it would be in my best interest to go ahead and cut her open. Just to catch everyone up to speed I dropped the motor end of aug and hauled it back home to my garage. It sat a week or so until I could run out and pick up a stand. After I got her mounted I didnt waste any time in getting started. Working at a a consistant pace a little everyday in b/n class and work I removed and tagged every bolt, bracket, and shaft. Everything went pretty smooth until I broke a bolt off in the head(I hate allen bolts they're the devil). It was one of the two bolts that holds on the coolont bleed port. And to add to the exitement I broke off two drill bits and an easyout bit in the remaining bolt, needless to say I gave up preventing anymore folleys agaisnt myself. So after the encounter with the stubborn stud I pulled the head, balance shafts, pan, and the pistons came out last weekend, I have to say i'm regretting tearing this motor down cause everything looks downright uncanny for the miles. Presently there is really nothing more besides the crank shaft which I will remove this weekend. I did discover some minor scoring and scratches on all cyliders but damage was heavier on #2 and #4. I' ve decided to go with Garrity at Performance Auto works in St.louis MO for machine work. I spoke with him breifly a few weeks ago and he gave me the skinny, he said I would need new pistons automatically just because of the higher mileage(custom PAW pistons 800$ a set), resize conrods,polish crank, and resurface block (he recommended maybe a 2.6 from the damage I descibed from the cylinders). Im also having some head work done port polish, 5 angle, o-ring, re-surface, inspect all valves and spring tension, replace guides and seals, he quoted the head work at somewhere around 600$ which in my opinion is more than fair. Ill probably end up sending everything out somtime in November but until then Im pinching my pennies and researching like crazy. Comments suggestions and critisims are all welcome just not to much critisism

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Brian 86 951 under the knife
estimated miles 180-200k

Mike B · 10-17-2001, 10:07 PM

Your doing the right thing Brian...and with the right person...I have heard nothing but outstanding comments about Garrity and Performance Auto Works, Inc.

It won't be cheap but it will be done right...I'm going to be in a similar situation very soon with my '86...Keep us posted..

wolfrpi · 10-17-2001, 11:39 PM

If you are going to spend the money and do it right at least go with a 2.7 bore. If you really want it right do a 3.0 (with stroke). Your car will retain more value with these mods then with just a plain jane 2.6 rebuild. Talk to others who've done the same thing.

Erick

Britwrench · 10-18-2001, 07:03 AM

Sounds like good clean fun so far..

You might want to timesert the cylinder studs, especially if you are going to use Raceware studs. We have had a few cars that the studs have pulled..usually the last one to be tightened and the engine is in the car...... You just need to lengthen the tools and make a drill jug to fit the block face.

Blackfoot · Blackfoot's Garage

doesn't the block on our cars have a different surface inside? isn't there a special process when you bore or even hone a cylinder in a 951?

porschepatron · 10-18-2001, 09:57 AM

Mike-thanks for the support man, I looked in to few other local shops but all were totaly cluelss about porsche so I rang up Garrity and he seemed real knowledgable about what he was talking about. I'm estimating b/n 2 to 4 g's on machine work pending on what options I will go with I'll keep everyone updated on what I decide to go with.

Wolf- Originally I wanted to stay stock but unfortunatly there is some cylinder damage so machine work is inivitable. Yes, I am seriously considering going with the 2.7 but I need more info on the outcome reliablity,power,and money are the main concern. This will be a daily driver so reliability is a factor of some concern. I will not be going with the stroker kit (way to much out of the price range). Furthemore I have found little to no one who has gone with a stroker kit or larger bore so infromation is limited. However I will get back with Garrity and discuss the topic in detail.
Brit- I will be going with race ware head studs but I think I'll let Garrity take care of this for me, due to the fact the studs must be installed to certain spec (meaning they shouldn't bottom out). Also I'm really not familiar with extracting and installing studs (not my area of expertice) and because the studs are crutial components I think Ill pass.
Balckfoot-Yes, cylinder walls were silica impregnated (aka alusil [alumminum+silicone]) which can only be serviced by the Sunnen ck/10 or cv/616 machines. Honing these cyliders will without a doubt ruin the silicone barrier. Sleeving the cylinders is another option and yet another is to just sleeve and not restore the silicone.