stranded part 2

[Ernest Hill]

replaced the AFM, and the car ran better than ever so I am confident it was bad BUT: car ran great for 2.5 hours then I spurred it and it started acting up, but different; it's actually stalling and smoking and running extremely rich (but much more smoothly w/ the new AFM ha). Popped the hood and NOW there is a loud vacuum leak under the intake manifold.

1. Can someone explain why a vacuum leak would ONLY appear 1. under load and 2. warm, then repair itself?

2. my head water temp sensor is loose inside; is yours? the mechanic in roswell theorized that was a bad thing, based upon other sensors he has worked with

problem #2 (probably causing problem #1): my turbo water pump is coming on rarely; when it does not come on the intake manifold gets burning hot and i'm guessing this is bad for my hoses, wires, sensors, maybe even engine. the relay is working, so what tells the pump to activate? my mechanic in vegas does not know. Is it related to water temp sensor, or does it come on automatically?.

thank you everyone for your help

[ae1969]

......... under load you are pressurizing the intake. You have a vacuum leak. Ripped hose? Loose?

You have to look for a leak from the outlet of the turbo all the way..........

There is a temp sensor near the turbo. Once the temp gets to X it grounds the wire and runs the turbo pump...... it also stays running approximately 25-30 seconds after you shut the car down.

You should bleed the system to ensure you have no air pockets as well........

A bad dme temp sensor would more than likely make you run rich but this is an easy one to test.......pull out an ohm meter.

[Ernest Hill]

can someone please tell me where to look to find the correct ohms coming from the temp sensor?

[Lawrence Coppari]

The sensor for the turbo water pump is just a microswitch. It is either 0 ohms or infinite. All it does is ground the lead wire to the block when the temperature in the jacket reaches a prescribed point. You can pull the connector apart and momentarily ground it. The turbo pump should run for 20-30 seconds as soon as you do this.

[Ernest Hill]

1. is the DME temperature sensor the temp sensor you are referring to? if not, where is the water pump switch?
2. where do i find the machine that reads the error code from the plug in front of the fuse box?

[Lawrence Coppari]

I was referring to the one for the turbo water temperature that runs the auxiliary water pump. That temperature sensor is on the turbocharger jacket. I suspect the other two are of the thermistor variety. They are on the block. I'd check the other two resistances for you but my car is in the shop for an oil leak they cannot seem to fix.

Can't help on your other question. Sorry.

[nynor]

like i said, there is a whole nest of vacuum hoses that live under the intake manifold. they like to get little splits where they make bends and those splits are difficult to see. plus, you have a vacuum hose on the turbo to intercooler pipe. mine split out after only a couple of months after being replaced (which i found odd).

[Ernest Hill]

pipes under manifold and elsewhere look great and fittings are tight

vacuum problem solved: the k & n filter looked like dirty old country welcome mat; i understand where the dirt came from, but the oil!

car is running now, but something is still off: it is totally smooth but slow, and when i release the throttle in neutral the revs drop to 400 before the going back up to 900, but smoothly. no gas out the pipe, so i suspect lean rather than rich.

[nize]

k&n filter should be oiled. the oil is what traps the dust.

[nynor]

Originally posted by Ernest Hill
pipes under manifold and elsewhere look great and fittings are tight

vacuum problem solved: the k & n filter looked like dirty old country welcome mat; i understand where the dirt came from, but the oil!

car is running now, but something is still off: it is totally smooth but slow, and when i release the throttle in neutral the revs drop to 400 before the going back up to 900, but smoothly. no gas out the pipe, so i suspect lean rather than rich.

so, you've taken the manifold off and visually inspected all of the hoses...

[Ernest Hill]

oh the shame, drove hard and vacuum leak returned, sounds like it is coming from the idle control valve but the hoses are fine; can the idle valve bushing failure stall my car? also, i tried the starting fluid trick and my idle never went up.

[soxnail]

Hey back from Melbourne Oz...G'day.
Ernest check out this post.
Idle Valve

[Ernest Hill]

I saw it, and before I disassemble everything I have two questions. 1. is that broken bushing/ gasket enuf to stall my car in third gear at full throttle and 2200RPM? and if so 2. please tell me what size that bushing/gasket is.

[nize]

i would just buy a replacement idle stabilizer.

[soxnail]

No it should not be enough to stall the car under the conditions you describe.
I just took the bottom part of the idle valve with me to the hardware store and tried 'O' rings on it till one fit..
Sox