Failure to start, Tps sensor malfunction

[mfloren]

*** Problem Fixed ****

*** Dme #5 had lost its solder and some how bridged into #4, 20 seconds with a soldering iron and it runs like a champ. ***

*** TPS was fine, thanks to some support in testing from soxnail ***


when I try to start the car the engine floods out.

from what i can see. when the car is running the TPS is sending voltage late / considerably lower then it should be.

when i crank over the car the TPS voltage is up in the 2.8v range. which is at 80% wot, when it is acually closed.

is this sensor broken, or do you think i have a short somewhere.??



michael floren

[soxnail]

You need to check for 4.3V to 5.0 V on pin 1 of the TPS connector. Make sure that pin 2 on the connector shows a good ground. Finally with the ignition on (the car does not need to be running) check pin 3 on the connector. With the throttle closed to it open. The voltage should go smoothly from 0 to about 4.3 or so. If it does not and is unstable you may have a bad resistor or it may be dirty. See my post to Eddie for fixing it.
Sox
"boost problem again"

[soxnail]

link
Boost problem (again)

[mfloren]

that link was refering to a boost problem. or did i not read it all the way.

WOT a month ago was maxingout at 3.2v on wire 3. Ill check tomorrow morning.

mike.

[soxnail]

You did not read it all the way...
Sox

[mfloren]

with conector unpluged and ignition on.

1 5.52v
2. .527v
3. 238mV
4. .52V
5 -------
6. 4.87V

a ohm test came back with nothing except for #3 with 14.26M

with the conector conected to the TPS

1. 4.41V
2. 361mV
3. .821V
4. 350mV
5. -----
6. 3.48V

with a throttle test.

#3. smoth from .8v to 3.89v
#6 jumps to 4.3V after partial throttle.

I could not get a good ground to the chassis on number 2. Im going back out in a bit, its hot here in colorado, to disconect the KLR to check #2 from there.

[mfloren]

looks like it should be pin #22

[soxnail]

The other pins 6 and 4 are for throttle idle position.
22 on the klr is correct.



" with conector unpluged and ignition on.

1 5.52v
2. .527v
3. 238mV
4. .52V
5 -------
6. 4.87V

a ohm test came back with nothing except for #3 with 14.26M

These numbers are very weird. With the connector off there should be nothing on the switch. Unless you are measuring the connector and not the tps pins.
2 should read 0 to a couple of ohms max to gnd.

with the conector conected to the TPS

1. 4.41V
2. 361mV
3. .821V
4. 350mV
5. -----
6. 3.48V

with a throttle test.

#3. smoth from .8v to 3.89v (seems a little low but not much)

#6 jumps to 4.3V after partial throttle. (this is for idle switch and needs to be measured 4 to 6)

I could not get a good ground to the chassis on number 2. Im going back out in a bit, its hot here in colorado, to disconect the KLR to check #2 from there."

Try to see if you get WOT from the KLR pin 18 when the throttle is opened past 60 %.
Sox

[mfloren]

when i crank over the car the voltage jumps up to 4.4V on the TPS wire.

im going to unplug the KLR and "try again to see what jumps around. if it continues I might have a short in the mafturburner instalation.

thoes origional voltage numbers were from the conector not the sensor.

[mfloren]

port B is at 5v for the entire throttle movement.

after pulling apart the DME pin #5 does not have a solder on the conection and what was there looked as if it had accidentialy joined #5 and 4, I might have overheated this during a previous fix. Ill solder it up and update the thread.

[mfloren]

Diagnostic port B is the same as DME 3 which is KLR 18 correct? at least this is what my wiring diagram illustrates

[soxnail]

Correct all 3 are connected
Sox

[mfloren]

Ok problem fixed. the DME #5 had lost its solder d conection to the board and some how bridged onto #4.

[soxnail]

Good stuff....
Sox