My rear end is dragging......

[ccg951]

Starting to think the 20 hrs. of shop labor for my clutch R&R might have been the way to go
I'm by no means a novice wrench having restored a '52 Cat D4 bulldozer, custom built '78 CJ-5 trail jeep not to mention living underneath my '72 Chevelle during the early years (ground up restoration) and 2 fully restored mahogany Chris Craft's but this clutch job on my 951 is trying my patience.

My '87 only has 74K miles but 22 years of age have rendered everything stuck/frozen or brittle. Trans came out with no issues as did the torque tube. The 3 small bolts to the waste gate pipe broke but are a no issue to replace. The clutch housing bolts must have been torqued to 150 ft-lbs plus. Had to use my 1/2 drive stuff with a small cheater on my breaker bar (the top one was a real bear) to get them broke loose. Now the referance sensorse are STUCK. The rear one broke off flush with the bracket and i can barely get the foreward one to turn a few degrees All this work and I still havent even seen the clutch and pressure plate yet My motivation is slipping away and I still haven't written a check for the expensive parts yet......

[kdjones2000]

If you already have the driveline torn out to the bell housing, and even have the bell housing bolts loosened up, then why not just unbolt the sensor bracket and let everything come out? Don't forget to remove the throwout fork pin as well if you haven't already.

You can then worry about the sensors/bracket on your workbench.

Good luck, Keith

[ccg951]

that is where i'm headed, didn't have a socket mounted 6mm hex bit and getting my allen wren in there to remove the bracket wasnt working out. Was also concerned about the difficulty in setting the 0.8mm sensor gap given how little room there is back there.

Clutch fork piviot is out, had to fab a pin puller via runing a long 8mm bolt through a deep socket to pull the pin out. The piviot pin roller bearings have worn grooves into the piviot shaft so looks like I'll be replacing that too. Nothing "hard" just a ton of stuff to remove to get this thing out.....

[kdjones2000]

You cannot remove the bell housing without removing the bracket anyway. There is a steel sleeve in the bracket that will prevent you removing the bell housing - that or you break your sensor bracket (Jon?).

[nize]

when you have the bellhousing off, you should cut the cross piece out so next time you'll be able to remove it with the sensors (and bracket) in place;

[ccg951]

She's all a part and i spent the weekend cleaning everything up. Flywheel is off to be resurfaced today and I will have all my parts on order as well.

Looks like I'm going the 930 disk route. I'll be resealing the trans, R&R the rms and the rear cam tower gasket will be changed also.

Nize, I notched the bell housing incase i have to do this again, thanks for the tip.

[kdjones2000]

Be VERY careful with the RMS installation. It is very hard to get it to seat correctly, and if it isn't correct it will leak.

Jon (Technoduck) borrowed a neato RMS installer (Available for a small fortune from Pelican) and makes sure that is goes in correctly. Others have used a 4" drainage pipe end cap.

If it's wrong, then you get to do it all over again. Joy oh joy!

[ccg951]

thx for the heads up. I've done RMS on other makes before, what makes this on so tricky?

I ordered the Sachs PP, Release bearing and 930 disk yesterday.

Had flywheel resurface also, no warpage and cleaned up with just a few thousandths. Should finish cleaning everything tonight and start on the trans reseal and RMS after that.

[kdjones2000]

Take a careful look at John_AZ's posts about this. They key is to seat the RMS fully into the recess, not just flush with the oil pan casing.

Being a 4" seal, it is larger than your average seal, and it is more challenging to seat correctly.

[ccg951]

Thx to all for the tips/tricks and info.....
Started the install Sat. and finished up Sun. morning. Car is soooo much easier to drive. No clutch chatter during shifts.

Nize, thanks for the tip on notching the bell housing for the sensors, worked like a champ and I blended it all with the dremel tool and looks like it came that way from the factory.

KDJones, thanks for all the tips along the way. The install went smooth and all seems good. The RMS was a breeze and yes the 4" pvc cap worked like a champ. The 930 disk and Sacks PP are working smooth, quiet and engagement feels great.

In hind sight I probably should have sent my Cup disk core to South Bend Clutch and had them reline it with performance organic and saved some $$$ but i think the 930 disk will perform just as well.

[nize]

good to hear it went well!