Splitting ignition for wasted spark would be much more do-able...
I'll take a look at the routine which controls ign events. But even without changing code, I have an idea on how wasted spark could be implemented through an external circuit...

Thanks for sharing and good luck with your progress.

I've just finished reading through this thread and I have a couple of small questions.
1. Does the DME or KLR directly control the CV and hence boost, meaning I can do without a manual boost controller?
2. In the LR chip changing instruction they change both the DME and KLR chips. As far as I can tell this just connects to the DME? Wouldn't a proper tune require alterations on both controllers?

1. Yes. There are 2 "modes" that it operates in". If the CV has a power signal applied to it, the WG will open at the pressure set by the restrictor in the line coming off of the charge pipe. If the power signal is cut to the CV, no boost is bled off, and the WG will revert to strictly spring-pressure operation (that starts a around 4psi, but will creap up to 7psi or more, depending on rpm, and how long the pedal is fully down. You can get rid of the MBC, but then you will need a restricted banjo bolt. You will have better engine failure protection that way.

2. There isn't really any need to change the KLR code. The exception to this is if you ar running more than 16.5psi, as the KLR will cut spark at 17psi.

Hey Josh, check out the new post I made in the +25% fuel thread. I'd like to have your take on it.

Ok. Thanks.

Just to clarify, the KLR will not cut spark at any PSI.
The KLR has a three tier response to knock.
First, it retards ignition timing by three degrees.
Second, retards ignition timing by six degrees.
Third, lowers boost pressure (if you are still using the stock CV setup).

There is no real need to change the KLR chip, if you are not using the stock CV setup.

Am I correct to assume that if you keep the stock CV setup you will need to change the KLR chip?

Only if you want to run more boost without the use of a manual boost controller...

Ok.
It would be nice if that could be done, but I guess it's a different topic.

Yes, the KLR would need both software and hardware upgrade to really be useful as a boost controller...

How DOES it contend with overboost (>17psi) then, by telling the DME to cut fuel?

The KLR does not do anything about overboost, besides throw a code (which only comes up during a KLR blink test).
The DME calculates "boost" (really load), and if the number is too high for too long, the DME cuts fuel injection for a short time.

Oh, that's right. The only thing it can do in that regard is turn off the cycling valve (go into limp mode), if boost goes over the limit. Other than for making the factory boost gauge able to be electric, I just wonder why the KLR uses a fancy pressure transducer to convert boost into a varying electrical signal, if it isn't really using that signal for anything.

lol, the KLR uses a pretty standard 2bar MAP sensor. Nothing fancy about it. The reason the KLR has this, is because part of the KLR's function is to be essentially an electronic boost controller. The mapping in the KLR doesn't simply try to build boost as quickly as possible, rather it ramps boost in accordance to rpm & tps.

Hmm, that's interesting. I wish I was more of a software person, so I could follow the programing in the KLR, as well as the DME, to be able to understand exactly what is going on.

I have one little question for you, rogue. Although I have APE's rendition of MAF code, you say that using your sample bin, which is based on the stock AFM code, and doesn't have any code tailored specifically for a MAF sensor, would be better to use with my MAF sensor. How is that possible, when the MAF doesn't even output the same type of signal that the AFM does?

I'll get to the KLR at some point, but really it isn't a priority...

Again, the APE MAF chip does not use MAF code. Not a rendition of, not a partial - not MAF code period. For reading the MAF sensor, the APE chip uses the exact same code and data as every other AFM chip out there..

A MAF sensor and AFM sensor output a 0-5v signal. All APE did was find a MAF that has an output curve similar to the stock AFM, then they just tweaked the AFR maps to get it to 'work'. But this method will not allow changing boost without re-tuning, have a drifting tune according to weather conditions, and other issues associated with incorrect MAF conversions.

It looks like I stand corrected then. I was under the impression that MAF sensors outputted a 0-12 volt digital signal, that is pulse width modulated. But obviously, that would be totally incompatible with an AFM output signal. My only question then, is why does the MAF need 12 volts to power it, instead of the 5 volts available at the AFM connector?

The Ford-Style MAFs will actually output higher then 5V (but no ECM uses more then 5V, not even the Ford stuff). Because they can output higher then 5V, they need a >5V reference - thus they use 12volts.

So you are saying that it doesn't matter whether I am using an APE (NGK), ford, or hitachi MAF sensor, I should ditch the APE chip in favor of your modified stock code, and start fine-tuning from there? (after I get my now-defunct DME back up and running, anyways)

Ater I complete the k27 upgrade, along with the 3" intake and exhaust piping, I am going to drop my boost down to 15psi, from the current 20psi, so as not to exceed the capacity of my stock injectors & FP. Then I will figure out where to go from there.