timimg and balancing belt replacement

[Newf944s]

Hello all 944s Techies..

I am ordering a 944s pelican belt kit the three tools listed bellow and have a Clint Manual to guide me through the process...

Can anyone point me to sites, posts, videos or provide comments/cautions or voice their experience in completing this project?

I will take pics and document process for others in future.

1-Timing Belt Kit, Contains: (1) Timing Belt, (1) Balance Shaft Belt, (2) Tension Rollers, (3) Idle Rollers, (1) Mileage Sticker, 944S/S2/968 (1987-95), Each

2-Aftermarket 944 Balance Shaft Locking Bar****
Timing Belt Adjusting Tool (24 mm), 944 (3/1983-89), 924S/944S (1987-88), 944S2 (1989-91), 944 Turbo (1986-89)

3-Timing Belt Adjusting Tool (24 mm), 944 (3/1983-89), 924S/944S (1987-88), 944S2 (1989-91), 944 Turbo (1986-89)

4-crank lock

Thanks

Andrew

[Newf944s]

meant timing.....

[Arizona_928]

you don't really need the crank lock tool if your not going to replace the front main seal, or oil pump seal. You just angle the belt in and it slids right into place. Also set your timing to TDC before you take off the belts, it makes it just that much easier to line them up when everything is in place.

[Lawrence Coppari]

And don't lose your patience placing the timing belt around the crank. If it needs some help, use a piece of wood rather than a metal object. Mine is troublesome due to housing clearance. Belt comes off easily but does not want to go in easily.

Removing spark plugs makes moving crank to proper position easier.

Make sure you torque all pulleys, etc to specification. Pulleys have a front and back to them. Don't reverse.

It's very easy to miss the proper position with the balance shaft belt. One notch off and you'll feel it.

There is a belt tightening direction for both the balance shaft belt and timing belt idler pulleys. One is CW; the other CCW.

Don't get in a hurry.

[Lawrence Coppari]

Don't forget to check out your water pump pulley. It should turn smoothly and have no runout.

[Grandad#3]

Hello Andrew, You need to check out Clark's garage.com. Check out the link below and click on "C" for Camshaft. It shows and tells all you will need to do your job. Just take the job slow and easy and follow each step. The flywheel lock is a good tool to have to lock in TDC of #1 cylinder. A good write up to read is found in the second link.

Clark's Garage Shop Manual Index

Timing question

Cheers,
Larry

[m73m95]

Its REALLY easy to get the timing belt on and off if you do a "belt cover delete"

I can do all rollers, new belts, and tension in about 40min.

[wild man]

Originally Posted by m73m95

Its REALLY easy to get the timing belt on and off if you do a "belt cover delete"

I can do all rollers, new belts, and tension in about 40min.

If it was me, I would then promptly do a belt cover "insert", following the belt change. Otherwise, I would be afraid that the cars "cheeks" would be spread wide open for such possibilities as a stone getting between the belt and one of the gears. Most of us could visualize what the resulting scenario would then be. It sure ain't gonna be ""!

[Roman944]

Originally Posted by m73m95

Its REALLY easy to get the timing belt on and off if you do a "belt cover delete"

I can do all rollers, new belts, and tension in about 40min.

how do you do a tension that fast? using the tool or "feel"?

more info plz

[m73m95]

Originally Posted by wild man

If it was me, I would then promptly do a belt cover "insert", following the belt change. Otherwise, I would be afraid that the cars "cheeks" would be spread wide open for such possibilities as a stone getting between the belt and one of the gears. Most of us could visualize what the resulting scenario would then be. It sure ain't gonna be ""!

Yeah.... I'm not going to disagree with you.

Its not something I would say is a good thing to do, but I've had them off for 40k miles, and no issues. It makes inspecting the belts easy. If you look at the angle from the bottom of the radiator to the bottom of the crank pulley, a rock would have to go nearly straight up to even come close to the belts, not to mention go through the AC/ALT belt, and PS belt (neither of which have covers to protect them). OH, and the rock would have to find its way around the under tray as well

Originally Posted by Roman944

how do you do a tension that fast? using the tool or "feel"?

more info plz

I use the ARNWORX (spelling?) tensioner (I have the whole "kit" he sells). After you've used it a few times, its really easy to use. I do the balance belt by feel though. Just tight enough to take the flop out of it.

As important as the timing belt is, I think most people worry to much about it. Put it on there, tension it, and poke it with your finger every oil change... done.

[Eric_Oz_S2]

Originally Posted by AZ_porschekid

you don't really need the crank lock tool if your not going to replace the front main seal, or oil pump seal. You just angle the belt in and it slids right into place. Also set your timing to TDC before you take off the belts, it makes it just that much easier to line them up when everything is in place.

S/S2 belts are wider. You need to remove the power steering and balance shaft pully, so a flywheel lock is a good idea. You can't slide the S/S2 belts in place, and you also must remove the auto tensioner for the cam belt.

You don't really need the tensioning adjustment tool. The cam bely should have an auto tensioner and the balance belt can be done by feel. It is quite loose (you should be able to twist it 180 degrees with your thumb and forefinger without too much effort) and will whine if it is tight.