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Try to fix one problem find another
It looks like the good old cycling valve has two busted nipples on it. Not good. Now I think these are expensive but I'm not really sure. Should I even replace this with another one or just get a MBC and set it to 10 PSI?
What is the cheaper route and would an MBC work with a stock setup. I am 99% stock minus K&N Cone filter. http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/DSCN0831.jpg http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/a...d/DSCN0832.jpg |
IMO while you're underthere buy this VENTURI DELETE at LINDSEY RACING - Your Porsche Performance Parts Center
and replace all the hoses and delete the venturi! you can go to a MBC but im not sure if it will give you the same protection with the KLR |
I am doing the venturi delete and replacing all the vacuum lines. Trust me I don't want to do this job again.
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yeah! if you get stuck i have a vaccum diagram i just posted up, it might help a little.
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You can usually find one used from a member here or Fleabay for not too much.
Going with the MBC will allow you to delete the Cycling Valve, but as Pauly said, you are taking one of the safety mechanisms out of the system if you experience pinging. Good luck with your decision.... Keith |
a new timing (cycling) valve is available here from pelican parts, p/n 951-606-117-00-M100, and costs $116.50.
While MBC is available from say Lindsey Racing for about $65.00 as mentioned, it does remove a safety feature from your system. IMHO, unless you are running a modified engine or turbo or doing track work, I'd stick with the timing valve. |
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