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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kansas City, MO
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Try to fix one problem find another

It looks like the good old cycling valve has two busted nipples on it. Not good. Now I think these are expensive but I'm not really sure. Should I even replace this with another one or just get a MBC and set it to 10 PSI?

What is the cheaper route and would an MBC work with a stock setup. I am 99% stock minus K&N Cone filter.




Old 09-28-2010, 07:24 PM
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IMO while you're underthere buy this VENTURI DELETE at LINDSEY RACING - Your Porsche Performance Parts Center
and replace all the hoses and delete the venturi!
you can go to a MBC but im not sure if it will give you the same protection with the KLR
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Old 09-28-2010, 07:35 PM
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I am doing the venturi delete and replacing all the vacuum lines. Trust me I don't want to do this job again.
Old 09-29-2010, 06:32 AM
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yeah! if you get stuck i have a vaccum diagram i just posted up, it might help a little.
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Old 09-29-2010, 06:43 AM
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You can usually find one used from a member here or Fleabay for not too much.

Going with the MBC will allow you to delete the Cycling Valve, but as Pauly said, you are taking one of the safety mechanisms out of the system if you experience pinging.

Good luck with your decision....

Keith
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Old 09-29-2010, 08:19 AM
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a new timing (cycling) valve is available here from pelican parts, p/n 951-606-117-00-M100, and costs $116.50.

While MBC is available from say Lindsey Racing for about $65.00 as mentioned, it does remove a safety feature from your system. IMHO, unless you are running a modified engine or turbo or doing track work, I'd stick with the timing valve.
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Old 09-29-2010, 10:07 AM
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some good info here

Manual boost:why not after cycling valve!

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Last edited by nize; 09-29-2010 at 12:18 PM.. Reason: fixed link
Old 09-29-2010, 10:40 AM
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