Struts waking up Madog part 2
 

As I am already up to my arm pits in MadDog, I am going to replace the struts. The shocks in the rear are already done Bilstens.
I am looking at the Koni conversion done by Paragon products, has any one done this conversion? or should I consider buying it from Paragon for core exchange ?
They also offer a "R&R" on the springs, what does this entail ? they take the springs out for a drinks and entertainment ? :)
BTW pics of current state of struts etc.
Sox
Boot on the knuckle is ruptured..


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1527891179.jpg

Old struts...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1527891246.jpg

Hacksaw conversion from Paragon is the way to go. It's not that hard to do yourself, especially considering what you are already doing.

Get a strut spring compressor from your FLAPS for free.

Just man up and do it yourself...

I agree with KD. Just be prepared for the Oil shower when you drill the relief hole!

I did the conversion and it was well worth it. Not very hard, but be careful using the spring compressor. Much easier to get the strut nut off if you have air gun.

Thanks for the advice gents..
Will go the hacksaw route.
Keith I am slow "FLAPS" ?
Sox

Friendly Local Auto Parts Store...

Ah so....
Where I live the "local" means a 25 miles away :)
Sox

Strut inserts have arrived, will proceed to the modification process.

While I was "in there" the boots on the steering tie rods are gone see pic.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529258924.jpg

The nut holding the tie end did not have a cotter pin. I had read some where that in some cases Porsche used a 'special' nut that does not need a cotter pin ?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529259106.jpg

I used this tool to separate the tie end..when it let go it sounded like a gun shot !! surprised the you know what out of me :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529259265.jpg

I marked the tie end thread with white and also measured the amount of thread showing to be able to put the tie end back in. I will get it aligned but this should be sufficient to get me to an alignment shop.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529259435.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529259435.jpg

Sox

Has any used the Renbay ball joint replacement kit ?
If so comments?
Thanks SOx

I did the Koni hacksaw strut procedure, pretty simple really. On second set of struts, I welded threaded tops on to allow for using inserts. Opens up variety of options, including insert version of Koni Sport.

I used SSI-Auto's ball-joint kit 15-years ago and it's been fine since. Rennbay version looks identical. So should hold up just fine. Be sure to press brass cups all way in, use big socket and C-clamp. Or if A-arm removed from car, use a vise. Epoxy C-clip in place at very end.

Thanks Danno,
Just some further pics of the process....
Sox

Close up of the ball joint.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529420525.jpg

My "protection plan" so the oil from the strut did not go every where...It was not needed as the strut was dead and had no air to push out anything.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529420679.jpg

Next subject:
The front wheel bearing on the driver's side has a destroyed seal. It was done approximately 15K miles ago, and I did it so it was seated and done right AFAIK. will have to do both again.
Sox

This came out of the seal/ bearing junction.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529420970.jpg

Danno,
Can you elaborate on the "welded threaded tops on to allow for using inserts" bit in your post ?
Thanks Sox

The Rennbay kit is great - used the bronze setup on my 951S and it has been perfect, even with some track days in there.

Welding a threaded top onto the housing is quite a bit over the head of a garage mechanic, IMO.

You can't miss following the procedure from Paragon with the 1414 inserts.

Sox,
Pretty ingenious covering the strut to avoid the spray. I wish I had been that smart! I had relatively new Sachs on mine so I got a good spray :(

Haven't had to do the ball joints, but I will follow the Rennbay route when I have to.

Question on the struts:

I have out one back together per instructions from Paragon, Torqued it to 59 Ft/lbs (M 14 nut).
After releasing the spring compressors the piece labeled 1 in the pic below can be spun around freely ?
The piece labeled 2 is firmly held by the nut and lock washer on top.
Did I miss a part in the reassembly ? used all the parts from Paragon as instructed and used all the parts from my old strut assembly.
So should the piece be able to spin freely ?
Thanks Sox

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529527310.jpg

Full assymbly:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529527395.jpg

One more pic.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529528676.jpg

If it didn't, you would have a pretty darned hard time making turns with your car :)

I basically convert sealed struts to threaded rebuildable ones. This lets me use variety of inserts from Bilstein, Tokico, Koni, etc. I really did it to use Koni 8611 double-adjustable short-stroke inserts.

1. Cut off sealed top of strut

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/...51e0568a_c.jpg


2. Fit threaded top, you can buy pre-made units.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/896/4...f9cce3df1a.jpghttps://farm2.staticflickr.com/1809/...ef2ff693_n.jpg

I just got set of used struts Pep Boys as throwing away. I cut off the threaded top with just correct length to contain insert.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1828/...cc1df569_c.jpg

3. Weld it on and you're done!

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1802/...2d250c75_o.jpg

Keith thanks, now that you point it out....should have figured it out myself. Getting slow :(

Danno thanks, looks intriguing but I don't do enough hard/special driving (at this time ). Pretty smart way to do it though.
Sox

For those of us that don't have a torque wrench with an attachment to take an open socket or box wrench here is a trick I used to set the torque to 59 lbs/ft on the top nut of the Koni strut insert.
You will need :
1 Torque wrench.
1 Offset box wrench, one side 22mm other side can be different (I used a 22mm and 20mm).
3 M12 nuts.
1 M12 bolt.
1 fender washer large enough to accommodate the M12 bolt and have enough surface to not let the assembled bolt and nuts fall through the 20mm box end.

It needs 59 ft/lbs.

The tool is shown in the pics below:

Formula is
Torque setting on the wrench = Torque needed X (Length of box wrench/Length of Torque wrench)

= 59 X ( 10.5/15.5) where 59 is spec, 10.5 is L of box wrench and 15.5 is the L of Torque wrench.

= 39.96 or 40 ft/lbs

Assemble as shown, insert the 22mm end on the nut on the strut, hold the small one protruding through the top of the box wrench with a 11mm box wrench and tighten to 40 ft/lbs.
Sox

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529860553.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1529860553.jpg