Pelican Parts Forums - Secondary Air Injection Check Valve successfully replaced!

After replacing the vacuum cut off valve for the air injection system, I realized the real culprit was the secondary air injection check valve. It took 5 off and on days of using Kroil penetrating oil and an old heat gun to get the check valve out without damaging its manifold or any of the air pipes that lead to each cylinder's exhaust valves. Here's a few photos of the process. The check valve is the brass colored device under the silver colored vacuum cut off valve. You need to remove the airbox to get in here to work. I also pulled the gasoline filter for more room. I know this has been documented before a number of times, but what the heck, something to do in the corona virus lockdown.
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This is the top of the air injection manifold with the SAI removed. I unsuccessfully used a dremel tool to cut a notch in the valve and hammering it with a cold chisel to try to get it started turning counterclockwise (failure). I then tried a large Channel lock wrench, again no luck. At this point the valve was really looking beat up. I ended up using a 3/8 socket wrench with a 1 1/16" thin crowfoot and a heat gun (I heated it up to 200 degrees F ). I cranked it using a 2' iron pipe as an extension of the socket wrench, and it finally broke loose.
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This is the thin crowfoot I used (I opened it up from 1" to 1 1/16" to fit the valve). I didn't have a 27mm crowfoot, so I used this one. It's an old military surplus item I found on Ebay. I cut the valve open and it was totally corroded inside and rusted over.
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Here's the new valve and the old valve. From the outside the old valve looked pretty good.
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Here's the crowfoot in action with the socket wrench. I used some thread grease so the valve will come out easily next time it's needed to replace it. I only tightened it a bit, again reasoning I don't want to go through this aggrevation again!
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