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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Missouri
Posts: 556
Calling the 964 guru's!!!

Okay folks,

In desperate need of help here. As you might have read in earlier posts, I bunged up my DME trying to put an aftermarket chip in. After dropping more $ than I should have on repair (could have gotten a salvage yard unit for ~ 1/2 the bill) I have two, actually three issues. Two that matter.

1) Does the DME effect usage of the AC? It worked before I screwed up mu DME. Couldn't find a fuse marked AC under the hood. I know that there is a relay in the back. Nasty way to find out, 1 PM in Ohio Indiana with temps in high 90's and sun pounding down on us.

2) Odometer died. Worked before and I didn't notice if or when it quit. My wife noticed it on the highway in Illinois.

More bad luck, while taking my bra off to wash the car, broke the filler neck on the intensive washer fluid. Also brake pad light still on even though have installed four new wear sensors.

So if any of you have insights or could check you shop manual wiring diagrams and let me know about the AC or odometer I would be indebted and promise to post pics after getting back home and running them through Photoshop.

Old 06-26-2005, 05:34 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: denver, co
Posts: 177
Fuse 17 is for the AC/heater control unit.

Did you also check:
a) blower fuses (1 and 39)
b) condensor relay? A non-blowing condensor fan will make the AC blow warm air.
c) ballast resistor on the condensor; should be 0.45 ohms. The battery vent is right above it, so might have corroded it.
d) the 3 FUSES in the back; #1 is for the AC clutch and #3 for the rear blower, which if that fuse is burned, the other blowers don't work (at least on the heater operation - I have gone without AC for 5 yrs so can't experiment here).

As far as the odo: check fuse #18 before panicking.

Brake pad light: if you put too much slack in the sensor wires and they rub on the wheels, they will short and give you a dummy light.

I dont think your DME has anything to do with these.
Old 06-30-2005, 08:08 PM
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I'm heading to Sun MOtors in Camp Hill, PA for a quick check up. If it's nothing major then I will have cold air (and a happier wife) back in the car. If it's the compressor clutch then it will wait to return to St. Louis as I try to decide of I should move to R134A or stay with R12 (I have 17#'s in my garage.

But on the troubleshooting front, I was going to throw my DVM into the car and didn't. Oh well. But I have the light on the AC switch and the fan on the condenser runs. So that should help them figure things out.
Old 07-01-2005, 03:31 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Missouri
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Quick update. Sweated for nothing. Turns out I had a bad Schrader valve and was low on R12. Doh!!! But service is much more affordable here in PA. Shop rate was $88.30/hr and the Freon was $30/lb. compared to $130/hr and $45/lb. in St. Louis. Thanks for all the input.

BTW, I just picked up a .02 version DME for $325 delivered so I will install that and keep my refurbed unit as a spare. My understanding is that we can run higher version DME's in our cars w/o problems.
Old 07-01-2005, 06:16 AM
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Old 07-01-2005, 06:16 AM
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