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Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2
seat in 993 hell!

1998 993 cab - top leaking, rain let water in and in - going after numerous problems with alarm/remote box, etc. went to remove driver seat.
Adjusted back to rear most position, removed front 2 bolts. Now it does not move whatsoever. Chewed up 1 set of cables and do not want to eat up another....the motor is spinning freely with the cables out - with cables connected, I get just a binding of cables in the fore or aft adjustment...no movement...like frozen stuck.
Need help on this one big time!
Any advice appreciated.
It apprears the seat is very slightly cocked now as well...one motor turned a bit further than the other...
Need to remove this seat asap.

Thanks in adv.

Old 01-04-2006, 03:52 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Viera FL
Posts: 5,642
Deep breath, take some back medication, because you are going to be hunched over for a while.

You need a LONG phillips screwdriver. Take this screwdriver, and slide is down to where the cable plugs into the seat, then turn it manually.

You will need to do this for both rails, moving each one a little at a time.

Optionally, if you have a cordless drill, and you do not mind risking a cable, insert the cable into the seat, and turn it with an electric drill. Again, you will have to do it in small jumps.

Once you have the seat out, you can reset both rails to one position.

Let me know when you need assistance reprogramming your alarm box... that will REALLY test your patience...

AFJ
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Old 01-04-2006, 06:42 PM
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So, you're suggesting I remove the seat cable and insert a philips screwdriver in it's place to manually turn the threaded seat rod ?
The head of the cable is a square shape though....I actually ground down an allen key to square, cut it off and placed it into a socket with a long extension and still no luck. I was afraid of stripping the cable receptacle on the seat.
This is a tough one.
Thanks for the reply and advice!
Old 01-05-2006, 03:27 AM
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Yes, just slip a phillips in there.

As far as tearing up the socket - it shouldn't. The metal they use on these parts is pretty solid - just look what it did to the spring steel in your cables..


AFJ
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Old 01-05-2006, 04:56 AM
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Location: Madison, WI
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Garage
I completely agree. I used a long flexible socket with square bit on the end and worked the seats gradually forward. It got impatient and stuck a cordless drill on it to speed up the progress.

Good luck with your project. I spent hours replacing everything under the seats of my flood damaged 964 so I feel your pain.
Old 01-09-2006, 08:36 AM
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I ground the end of a long screwdriver into a square tip to fit the rear drive of the seat mechanism. Usually only one side sticks and I have been able to free it up by twisting with my tool. Once you have cleared the jam, the drive should move easily. I have repaired frayed drive cables by coating the ends in epoxy any holding them in a vice. This fix has lasted years.


Old 02-19-2006, 05:38 PM
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