'96 993 Remote / Immobilizer problem

[bstrutton]

Have been having issues with my keyfob (remote). Spotty operation even w/ new battery. Sometimes have to 'flex' the case to get signal & led light.

Very difficult last try -finally got it to unlock / disarm the immobilizer. Drove home. Remote no longer works & no spare. Followed the owners manual for 'emergency immobilizer deactivation' using key & 4 digit keycode.

Specific problem is that manual states after unlock, lock, unlock, ignition on, the immob warning light on the clock should come on. My light never does come on so cannot proceed to entering keycode.

Want to take to dealership for new remote(S) & tuning but can't seem to get emergency procedure to work.

Additional info in case it causes issues w/ immob emergency override:

1) Radio replaced with aftermarket 2 years ago

2) Dome light broken & disconnected currently.

Any thoughts ? Possible that immobilizer 'brain' gone ? What is the part number or part actually called ? Where is the immobilizer receiver & antenna if any located ?

Dealer is an hour away so towing is expensive option.

TIA for all suggestions.

[AFJuvat]

It sounds like your remote control is bad.

What are the leds in the door doing? Flashing? not lit at all?

Usually, if you are having problems with the emergency procedure, it is because you are getting your counts wrong. or you are not getting everything done in the correct amount of time.

If you start with the key in the "on" position, turning it "off" and then back to "on" counts as 1

Are you sure that you have the correct 4 digit code? You can obtain the number from the dealer (with proof of ownership) or you can look at your immobilizer box (located under drivers seat) The last 4 digits of the serial number is the immobilizer code.

Radio and dome light should have nothing to do with this issue.

AFJ

[ryantech]

the coding process for the immobilizers are very finickey on 993's its almost like a slot machine trying to get the immobilizer to enter the coding process.

if im not mistaken you have to unlock, lock, unlock from outside the car, then in 5 seconds you have to get in and turn the ignition to the on position

[bstrutton]

Have learned a lot & wanted to follow up on this. Not to go 'off board' but found some VERY significant info (esp fuse 11) over on Rennlist...

Here's a few items of interest:

I could never get the remote warning light on the clock to come on, let alone flash, etc. Basically couldn't get into programming mode. A suggestion over at Rennlist was to check fuse 11. Checked & sure enough it was blown. Replaced & warning light now works but couldn't quite get into programming mode -seemingly related to double-blink condition on alarm LEDs.

** I can't stress enough that I found several documented instances where dealers couldn't get into programming / bypass mode & I suspect that it may have only been this #11 fuse ***

I Fixed two other items before successfull start as follows:

1) My dome light had been physically broken for sometime. Used test light to complete red + brown/white circuit.

2) My aftermarket radio was removed to ensure that green alarm-radio frame wire had NOT been hooked up when replacing factory system w/ aftermarket. It had not, BUT I had left the radio out. I then hooked the radio back up (leaving green lead isolated).

With new #11 fuse + 1 & 2, above, was able to successfully get clock remote/immobilzer light to come on, blink, etc as expected & successfully effect emergency immobilizer bypass and start the car using immobilzer code.

Three items remain:

1) Still getting a double blink on the alarm LEDs. Suspect it's due to disconnected (for sanity) engine bay alarm horn. Will reconnect & recheck for (normal) single blink op.

2) Upon successful emergency immobilzer disabling procedure, alarm still seems to be going off (blinkers blinking, etc). What I've read seems to indicate this is not normal but I'd be curious on results from others execution of this emergency procedure. Am hopeful that it's maybe related to disconnected horn & if single blink led status is achieved then immobilizer bypass will work AND disable alarm.

3) Can't reprogram this previously working remote & given it's spotty history am convinced that it's probably dead. Will re-check after alarm-horn reconnect, esp if that results in single-blink alarm led status. If nogo will then order new one & report back.

Hope this helps someone in the future. Once 100% operational I will write this whole thing up in a step by step.

[Jascha]

Not sure if this matters but check your bonnet (front hood) latch light switch and see if it stays off when it is lowered.

They are known to fail (also cause slow battery drain) and may prevent alarm to set - on/ off -

Looking forward to your wrote-up!

Best,

j.

[bstrutton]

An update to the ongoing saga....

I picked up a new remote from the stealer (to the tune of $215 -come on!). Thankfully I am able to successfully program it to the car. Am able to start & drive car w/ no alarm going off using the remote.

Persisting items include:

a) Double blink on arm (even w/ remote). It would appear that one of the switches might be bad so I'll be tracing that now.

b) Using emergency procedure w/ key & immobilizer code only (no remote) I can start & drive car but the alarm does not deactivate (i.e. driving around with lights flashing, alarm horn blairing -fun).

I hope that b may be related to still having a double blink on arm.

Thanks for the comments so far. As mentioned, I'll write this up w/ clarity once I've got it fully sorted.