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Spoiler not operating
What are most likely causes of failed Spoiler?
its parked in engine cover, and won't respond to either speed, or manual operation, of the dashboard control Fuse, control unit.....? can operate it succesfully un-connected from its motor so not apparently jammed mechanically. is there any voltage to back of car measurable, with car stationary/ignition on so I can measure it or check wiring? thanks
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Here is the schematic:
![]() As you can see it has: Control unit motor two limit switches manual overide switch You can put 12V and ground on the motor and see if it moves. Then reverse the leads, and should reverse motor rotation. Most of the time, the control unit's output stage goes kaput.
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1993 964 C2 still makes me smile Retired and work as needed as a pain in the **s. |
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In the morning I shall start at fuse under hood,
Move onto overide switch, and possibly onto motor itself, In search of power. Not noticed any warning lights TBH, but would it light if control unit had gone wrong?
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Right,
Fuse under hood seems intact, removing plug from back of overide switch though, shows no current (engine running) and also the warning light is lit ( light 24) Winding spoiler out manually with its cable, it appears not to have been not operating for some time, given its level of dust and muck, and, the Blind is split in Two lengthways. control unit, is it easy to check for operation?
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The 1989 and 1990 have two control units.
One opens the spoiler at 50 mph and the other opens the spoiler at 70 mph if the first one fails. This system was changed for model year 1991. On the early models, the spoiler control units are located under the right seat. 1991 models and up, the control unit is under the dash. If you have some electronics skills, you can try opening the control unit and look for the transistors that drive the relays for the up and down operation. You could be lucky, the failed component is very visible, or could be simple as a cold solder. Aside from that, you must have an interchange book for the failed component to exactly match the configuration. A component could be an NPN or PNP with emitter base collectors in the wrong orientation. So be careful. Or just bite the bullet and get a new or used control unit for like $300. You can also send the control unit to systems consulting dot com for repair, (Lorenfb on this board). Not sure if Pelican has a tie up with him on DME, CCU and other control box repairs, just PM him.
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Actually I'm sure the fact I bought the car yesterday will prompt a repair/replace anyway as it also came with a (supposedly working)
warranty. if it was something I could fix easily outside the house then I'd do it, the cars a 91' BTW. Do you have a picture of the unit I could take a look at? there is a silver tin box below steering wheel RHD maybe take a look later, weather is just awful right now to work outside ![]() thanks for advice though all the same, Richard
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Discovered an amplifier beneath seat, also the connector that feeds seat motors, not this though,
still, checked the actual motors operation with 12V and thats fine, so it looks somewhere between fuse> Switch & controller> engine cover bound to be this I suppose found a mystery rocker switch, mounted on the removable carpeted panel on centre tunnel, that conceals rear wiper relay got one of them?
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No rocker switch here.
Is it DPST? Trace the wires. Flip it ON/OFF and see what happens when starting the engine. Try raising the spoiler too with ignition on with manual switch. Previous owner may have by-passed something.
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tried it in all combination but nada, and can't seem to loosen cover enough to remove inspect as yet
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Well, if it's under warranty, try that route first before time rans out.
Good luck.
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OK
The dealer is sending me out a replacement control box and a replacement blind' as the originals split drom end to end question... A 1991 car, where would the control unit be sited, i've read, either under the seat (L or R?) or beneath dashboard (where) all help gratefully received as always fire away....
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