Brake/clutch fluid recommendations?

[Hans57]

All,

I am changing/flushing the brake/clutch fluid and am wondering what fluid do you recommend I use in my stock '91 C2? It is not a daily driver, nor is it track driven. I see some new products out there that are claiming to be DOT 3 and 4 and say synthetic on the bottle. Is it okay to use synthetic in these cars? Thoughts?

Thanks!

[Don Plumley]

For daily purposes, I would stick with standard high-grade brake fluid.

[Hans57]

I have some fresh Castrol, is that a good "high grade"?

[Newsboy]

I have used ATE Super Blue. Around $12.00 per liter. The blue color lets you know when the old stuff is gone.

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by Hans57

I have some fresh Castrol, is that a good "high grade"?

There are different grades of Castrol(and other brands)

Castrol LMA is ok, though there are better choices for track use
Casrol SRF is among the best(and most expensive @3-4x the cost of most other choices)


ATE blue and ATE200(same stuff except blue is 200 w/ dye) are very good moderately priced fluids

other excellent and reasonably priced brands, though more expensive than ATE

Motul RBF600

Brembo LCF 600

[Hans57]

Thanks to all,

I finished up with the change, what a snap with the Motive power bleeder! I also replaced the slave cylinder hose, I heard they deteriorate over time. That was not too bad of a job either. Long arms skinny arms help. My car will not see track time, so I used Castrol LMA.

Loving the warmer weather!!!

Thanks again!

Jeff

[voodoo964]

Hi Jeff,

I've been wanting to replace my brake fluid for some time. Could you provide some instructions on how best to do this or some web links

Many thanks,
Colin

[JoeMag]

there was discusison on rennlist race board about this about a month ago and Casrol SRF was deemed to be the best (race aps) because it has the highest WET boiling point.

[Bill Verburg]

There is no doubt that SRF is among the very best, but compared to very good ATE200/Blue you get ~28% better performance @~700% higher cost

SRF compared to Motul 600
is ~10% better @ ~290% higher cost

If you need it it's worth every penny but most people don't need it.

[kang]

What brake fluid does the factory recommend? Somehow I recall Pentosin, but I could be wrong on that...

[Bill Verburg]

Factory fill is ATE200, they even used that on the GT2 Evo race cars

[Don Plumley]

Originally Posted by voodoo964

Hi Jeff,

I've been wanting to replace my brake fluid for some time. Could you provide some instructions on how best to do this or some web links

Many thanks,
Colin

Easiest with a Motive Power Bleeder.
Raise the car, remove the wheels. Clean the bleed nipples.
Suck excess fluid from the reservoir with a baster or syringe.
Pressurize system with bleeder to ensure it seals (clamp overflow hose if your car has one).
Push through one pint of new generic fluid to flush system. Don't forget the clutch slave cylinder.
Add ATE200 or equivalent new fluid, push through all 9 nipples (RR, LR, RF, LF, Clutch).

Test brakes for firm pedal before remounting wheels.

[voodoo964]

Thanks for that don!

[Hans57]

voodoo,

It really is as easy as Don mentioned. The key is using the proper tools, Motive Power bleeder for the flush and a Mity Vac is a handy tool to use to suck the reservoir out before beginning the flush. Be careful when opening up the bleeder valves by using a proper fitting wrench. Oh, and long arms help when you are trying to get to the slave cylinder bleeder.
Let us know how it goes!

[voodoo964]

Bled the brakes but didnt have time to do the clutch will do it at weekend. Its pretty easy, of course it helps to clamp the overflow hose

was wondering why i lost all pressure - got it back again

Thanks for the help!

[911 2]

when bleeding 9 nipples i presume each caliper has 2, which one is opened first, top or bottom
is it the same sequence for the 964 turbo

[boeing 717]

I dont know if anyone mentioned it but make sure you bleed that round accumulator in the trunk as well. And make sure you clamp off the overflow hose from the resevoir. You have to unhook the hydraulic pump and go through that procedure to do it.

JERRY

[Bill Verburg]

Originally Posted by 911 2

when bleeding 9 nipples i presume each caliper has 2, which one is opened first, top or bottom
is it the same sequence for the 964 turbo

There is never a bleed nipple on the bottom, inner 7 outer on top only

only the electro-hyd boost systems(C4,tt,RS, 964t) have an accumulator in the trunk

the general rule of thumb is to bleed from the furthest to the closest to the m/c

[911 2]

could someone please run through how to bleed the full 964 turbo system from brakes to clutch to the accumulator, what does this accumulator look like and when and how is it bled
the fluid needs changing anyway