I'm in the middle of replacing these bushings w/ polyurethane pieces from Powerflex. My OEM bushes look to be in decent shape, even after 100k miles, but man, they have plenty of flex to them. I can't wait to get it all back together w/ the poly pieces.

Thanks Bill, do you have any photo's of the RSR bracing?

For road your option 2 has to be the best, thanks for the tip, mono-balls would make long distance driving not a lot of fun.

I want to use the 993RS wheel carriers, not just to reduce bump steer but to reduce unsprung weight and because the 993RS track rod is stiffer.

Also I'm sure it would be an improvement to replace the stiffer rubber inner on the 993RS trackrod with a solid section to reduce flex even more. Is there a Porsche Motorpsort part for this?

http://www.racetek-engineering.com/i...tiffening1.jpg
the things that helped steering the most on my car, in no particular order
8.5' front wheels even if you don't change tires

993RS wheel carriers w/ GT2 monoball inners/RS outers these are no longer being made but there are a few sets left here and there, I believe that Steve Weiner at Rennsport Systems may have a couple sets left theu have gotten to be very expensive since I bought mine

RS sport rubber bushes in both leading and trailing position on the front A-arms

w/ 993 wheel carriers you have to use 993 rotors, 322 w/ big reds or 304 w/ regular 993 front calipers

ABS gear and front Hub.

Porsche factory REALLY struggled with ABS gear and washer during 964 C2 production. Assembly was changed 3 times:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52900356/Por...64absring2.jpg

And then in 1994 they said - all previous designs are bad and use this one:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52900356/Por...bsring3_tb.jpg

Latest design replaces front hub and washer (abs gear) as pair! Hub is easy - it is 993 hub. But revised 964 45teeth tension ring is impossible to find used, cause you have to find 964 that had front axle repaired at dealer according to bulletin above after 1994...


Gladly, thanks to Rob from DC automotive for supplying various parts to me - one can press out ABS ring from 964 and press it on 993 tension ring. In this case you'll end up with best front hub design ever.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52900356/Por...n/IMG_0163.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52900356/Por...n/IMG_0156.jpg

Pressing ring out:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52900356/Por...n/IMG_0159.jpg

Press rings from this kit from Harbor Freight fit ABS ring very well:


http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52900356/Por...n/IMG_0166.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52900356/Por...n/IMG_0160.jpg

Pressing 964 ABS ring on 993 washer.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52900356/Por...n/IMG_0168.jpg

Here's 993 hub and matching ring with 964 ABS gear on it:

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52900356/Por...n/IMG_0169.jpg

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/52900356/Por...n/IMG_0173.jpg

Oleg.

Thanks for posting Oleg,

If you have the parts I'd be interested to know if there is a difference in the driveshaft spline and the wheel bearing fitment between the 964 and 993 rear wheel hub.

I'm sure the rear wheel bearings are the same size so I'm assumming the driveshaft spline is the same size.

I know it won't be a straight swap due to wheels and brake disc offsets but for a number of reasons I'm thinking it would be a good idea to fit a 993 rear wheel hub on my 964.

Ahab, I do not know. Haven't researched that part. I heard that half shafts from current waterpumper GT2/3 cars are much lighter and can be fitted, but task not straight forward.

Also it is known that 993 rear hubs/bearings tend to overheat and leak grease toward axle nut - that's on track conditions. Partially it can be explained by much lighter weight/heat dissipation of 993 rear hub/wheel carrier assembly compared to fat 964 A-Arm.

Maybe some of hardcore track people can add to it.

Oleg.

I think Bill V has photos of that. He pretty much has photos of everything. And I think he has solutions.

Solution = higher performance grease

Well, this is very useful. I've got my pss9's ready to go and need a little help. I've got the rear washers/spacers all up and going thanks to the following:







Now I need to do the same and confirm the order for the front struts. Here is what I have. Does it look like the correct order?




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1371490012.jpg

that is whaT I did on mine..

Carl, look correct - big washer 1st on the strut. Here's Bilstein installation pic

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...nt-washers.jpg

Oleg.

Oleg has reminded me that this is covered in the Bilstein pdf reference he linked and looking back indeed it is in the diagram on page 17 of the pdf. This does appear to be the correct configuration for anyone else looking to mount the front struts.

Thanks guys.

just revisiting this informative thread and thought I'd share some pictures and ask some more questions

I've found some photos of the 964 and 993 front suspension side members and can spot a few differences

964
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372979098.jpg

993 C2
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1372979183.jpg

Note the thicker webs and extra web at the forward front wishbone mounting point, also the wishbone mounting axis looks like it is positioned a little further outboard than the 964, does this easily give extra camber??

There is another 993 side member used on the RS and C4/TT but I have not found any photos so am assumming it is stiffer or has extra mounting holes for the front diff than the 993 C2 version

As using a 993 lower wishbone on my 964 is going to help improve toe stiffness it makes sense to me to fit the stiffer 993 side member too, that is if the 964 and 993 chassis mounting holes are in the same postion.

Any comments welcome.

the main difference between 993C2 and RS/C4 longitudinals is the mounts for the differing brake boosters

993C2 and C2S both have vacuum boosters mounted to the longitudinals as seend here
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373022376.jpg

RS and C4 have electro-hydraulic units mounted in the trunk, that area is clear on those cars
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373022835.jpg

If possible can you measure the A-arm(wishbone) o/s difference? I believe that there is a difference as some 993Cups use the outer mounting holes for the longitudinals even on n/b versions by using special longitudinals which i beliebe to be just re part numbered 964C2 longitudinals.

Both 964 and 993 have the same 2 sets of mouting holes in the chassis for the longitudinals, inner is used for n/b and outer for widebody like RSR and GT2 but not 993turbo

this n/b 993Cup has the longitudinals in the normal inner holes

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373023465.jpg

this one in the outer

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1373023521.jpg

both version of 993 Cup use the same wheels and other suspension parts, the main reason to move the bottom of the wheel out and leave the top alone is camber and toe curve correction.

looks like this one uses the 964 side member (looking at relative location of the round hole near the front bushing mount). Clever, looks like this arrangement provides an intermediate width.

I agree, though the 993Cup longitudinal has it's own unique part #, I have been told by informed sources that it is indeed the 964C2 part

The recommendation for my 993 track car was to use the 964C2 longituninals in the outer holes

993RS uprights
 

Here's couple of notes on 993RS uprights.

1st. They do not alter steering ratio. Visually RS upright tie rod mount point may look closer to axle, but it is not.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...s/IMG_0946.jpg


https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...s/IMG_0948.jpg

Here are interesting measurements (approximate):

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...s/IMG_0952.jpg


RS tierod inner halfs do look very similar to regular 993 inners

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...s/IMG_0947.jpg

but have different part numbers.

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...s/IMG_0949.jpg

it's been said that rubber inside is harder. I have no means of measuring ...
Oleg.

Hi Oleg,

Very analytical as usual. Are you trying to go lower with the RS uprights while avoiding bump steer?

Carl, I do not have (noticable) bumpsteer with my setup,

That said, I think there are so many pros of using 993 rs uprights - they straighen your lowered geometry, reduce unsprung weight, have better heat dissipation, allow brake updates. 993 tierods are big step up from flimsy 964 ones.

Probably only disadvantage is price and need for other things aka brakes, 993 a-arms, and some labor. But hey, i wrench for love of it and relaxation ... there are more expensive hobbies:)

Oleg

Just revisiting this very informaive thread and hope someone can help me understsnd the difference between a 964 and 993 rear wheel hub.

If anyone has either one out on a bench and wouldn't mind taking a few measurements for me please PM me and I'll send you a picture showing what to measure